Olympia Cremina header wrap the boiler - Page 2

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Dev (original poster)

#11: Post by Dev (original poster) »

From my experience using the Titanium wrap it was not like the fiberglass variety. It does not fray or has itchy dislodged fibers. It wrapped up dry and is more like a cloth. They say what gives its heat retention is pulverized Basalt that is sandwiched between the cloth. Interesting enough I own a Gitzo Basalt composite tripod.
When I wrapped up my headers it was easy once you fold it on itself and pull tightly as you overlap.
Thanks for the suggestion on how to test it. I will also use an IR tester.

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baldheadracing
Team HB

#12: Post by baldheadracing »

bostonbuzz wrote:Sorry, that was directed at OP who mentioned fiberglass header wrap, which I have used (on a boat) and released so many fiberglass hairs my hands hurt for days. Wear a full face respirator when working with the stuff.
Oh man you have my sympathy. The first time that I used fibreglass wrap I wore gloves - but also a short-sleeved shirt - so my forearms suffered. :|

The DEI "Titanium" wrap and similar are sooo much easier to work with. In addition, safety wire can be used to position the wrap. (Safety wire frays and eventually cuts through fibreglass wrap.)
Dev wrote:From my experience using the Titanium wrap it was not like the fiberglass variety. ...
Also, as you'll be in there already and you're after better steam: you might consider wrapping the steam pipe and the back part of the steam valve so the entire steam path is insulated. Will it make a noticeable difference? I don't know.
-"Good quality brings happiness as you use it" - Nobuho Miya, Kamasada

Dev (original poster)

#13: Post by Dev (original poster) »

Im back with some interesting results.



I could not wrap the top of the boiler because of the bar that is used on the older type boilers. I did the best I could and used a cut to size worm gear clamp. The wrap has good traction to hold into place while winding it around the boiler making installation easy.

I decided to do a smaller test because it would take forever for the machine to cool down to have a repeatable base line.
1. Cold machine without wrap with cover on
2. Cold machine with wrap with cover on after 24 hours
3. Temp testing using an infrared thermometer with cover off.

I used a lap timer to log the on and off times of the boiler.

Here is what I found.
The mechanical Pstat is something that I would not set my watch to as its varies. I came to the conclusion that I need to look for trends.
What I observed is just the opposite of what I was hoping for. The wrap actually increased cycling times.
Before I installed the case I taken temp readings at the demarcated area between the exposed boiler and the edge of the wrap and made an interesting discovery. Before the machine was turned on the bare boiler reading was 1 degree less than the wrap which seemed to be normal. After the machine was turned on and heated up for a few cycles I found that the wrap was 40f degrees higher than the exposed portion of the boiler at the demarcated line. I initially dismissed it as a reflectivity error of the device.

What I think is happening is the wrap is absorbing heat away from the boiler and not containing it. As baldheadracing pointed out this might not work effectively as the wrap probably needs higher temps to work and is not suitable for this application. After my observations it makes things worse.

If anyone has a recommendation of material to use that I can purchase from Amazon please do and I will conduct the test again.
I'm disappointed as I was sure this would work.

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JohnB.
Supporter ♡

#14: Post by JohnB. »

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Faced-C ... r=8-4&th=1

Seal the seam with heat resistant metal/foil tape.
LMWDP 267

Dev (original poster)

#15: Post by Dev (original poster) replying to JohnB. »

Thanks. Ordered and great idea using the metal foil tape.

I will conduct the same test next week.

Dev (original poster)

#16: Post by Dev (original poster) »

I am back again. I removed the exhaust wrap and added the ceramic fill that JohnB recommended.
Also thanks for the tip on using foil tape as that was very necessary to hold the fill together and to cover the upper part of the boiler.
I also used some of the fill on the T bar that is integrated on the boiler for the pressure stat and on the other side for the steam wand.

As I mentioned before I can only look at trends between the three tests because the tolerances for when the boiler switches on and off have very loose timings. As the machine stabilizes then the off times of the boiler are more predictable at around the 45 minute mark.

Here is my findings

1. The bare boiler has and average time with the boiler off at around 1:18. Boiler on time averaged at around 8 seconds.

2. As I have observed the wrap increased cycling times over the bare boiler. The average time of the boiler off is 55 seconds but interestingly the boiler on time to switch off is shorter at around 6 seconds

3. With the ceramic fiber fill the boiler off time average at 1:45. Boiler on time was much longer at around 10 seconds. Another thing to note is the fiber fill off time was stabilized earlier in the heat up cycle with its extended times so the overall cycling has slowed down significantly between the three.


I think the exhaust wrap needs a lot of heat before it works as an insulator which is best suited for a car exhaust application but for the a boiler it's worse increasing the cycling times. The ceramic fill appears to stabilize the boiler a little sooner in its warm up time compared to the bare boiler. So in a nutshell the cycling time of the Pstat is reduced using the ceramic fiber fill which could in theory make the these invaluable and unobtainable original Pstats last longer.

In hind site I should have also measured the temps of the group to see if there was a faster transfer of heat with having the boiler cycle less.