Olympia Cremina 67' plug gets warm
- nirdvorai
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 508
- Joined: 5 years ago
Hi,
Just pick up Cremina 67' with serial number start at 83.
The machine set on the shelf without working for at least 5 years, and I intend to fully restore her.
First thing I notice is that the electric plug is "upside down" and getting warm after 5 min. of operation.
On the metal information plate it looks like the machine was converted from 220v to 110v, am I right?
My question is- this plug is in normal position? and correct me if I'm wrong- but the plug shouldn't get warm and probably is faulty?
Thanks.
Just pick up Cremina 67' with serial number start at 83.
The machine set on the shelf without working for at least 5 years, and I intend to fully restore her.
First thing I notice is that the electric plug is "upside down" and getting warm after 5 min. of operation.
On the metal information plate it looks like the machine was converted from 220v to 110v, am I right?
My question is- this plug is in normal position? and correct me if I'm wrong- but the plug shouldn't get warm and probably is faulty?
Thanks.
- civ
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: 17 years ago
Hello:
It's how the sockets are put in the wall (in this case, ground pin is at the bottom).
It can vary, I don't think there's a norm but I don't live in the US so I cannot really say.
Athough there is a norm for this type of plugs (American standard NEMA 5-15 /Type B) as to the position of the live and neutral cables with respect to ground, in my experience (YMMV) as long as the ground is wired correctly it will work properly without any issues.
See here:
https://www.worldstandards.eu/electrici ... ckets/ab/
See here:
https://no.co/media/design_elements/NOC ... er-2_1.jpg
This type of plug is rated at 110V/15A and the element seems to be 1000W, so it should draw no more than ~9.1A @110V.
You have a wide current draw margin (~ 6.0A) left.
It's probably a multi-use plate, the OEM deleted what did not apply.
But yes, it's OK either way as long as everything is wired correctly.
This seems to be a molded plug and may be faulty or most probably not making good contact inside the socket.
Either way, before doing anything else, I'd have the plug changed for a new one.
After that, if the plug still gets warm, you'll have to check to see if the element is faulty or has a leak to ground.
Cheers,
CIV
It's not that the plug is upside down or right side up.nirdvorai wrote: ... plug is "upside down" ...
It's how the sockets are put in the wall (in this case, ground pin is at the bottom).
It can vary, I don't think there's a norm but I don't live in the US so I cannot really say.
Athough there is a norm for this type of plugs (American standard NEMA 5-15 /Type B) as to the position of the live and neutral cables with respect to ground, in my experience (YMMV) as long as the ground is wired correctly it will work properly without any issues.
See here:
https://www.worldstandards.eu/electrici ... ckets/ab/
See here:
https://no.co/media/design_elements/NOC ... er-2_1.jpg
Now, that should not happen.nirdvorai wrote: ... warm after 5 min. of operation.
This type of plug is rated at 110V/15A and the element seems to be 1000W, so it should draw no more than ~9.1A @110V.
You have a wide current draw margin (~ 6.0A) left.
No necessarily.nirdvorai wrote: ... looks like the machine was converted from 220v to 110v ...
It's probably a multi-use plate, the OEM deleted what did not apply.
Bear in mind that 'normal' is just a statistical term ... =-)nirdvorai wrote: ... plug is in normal position?
But yes, it's OK either way as long as everything is wired correctly.
This seems to be a molded plug and may be faulty or most probably not making good contact inside the socket.
Either way, before doing anything else, I'd have the plug changed for a new one.
After that, if the plug still gets warm, you'll have to check to see if the element is faulty or has a leak to ground.
Cheers,
CIV
- nirdvorai (original poster)
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 508
- Joined: 5 years ago
Hi CIV,
Thanks for that great information.
Indeed I live in an old house, where some of the sockets are loose.
I connect the machine to a firm one, and the plug connectors although got warm, it's not was as warm on the outside as before.
So yes, I will replace it.
By the "element faulty", you mean the heating element?
Best
Thanks for that great information.
Indeed I live in an old house, where some of the sockets are loose.
I connect the machine to a firm one, and the plug connectors although got warm, it's not was as warm on the outside as before.
So yes, I will replace it.
By the "element faulty", you mean the heating element?
Best
- civ
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: 17 years ago
Hello:
Well, loose sockets are not a good thing to have when you are plugging in a coffee machine with a 1000W boiler at 1.2 bar.
I'd start by getting the plug changed to see how the machine behaves.
If the plug still gets warm, you should have the machine looked at by a reputable shop.
After that, I suggest you contact a licenced electrician and have him check out the house's electrical installation to put things in order.
Also, if not present, do install a GFCI breaker.
A faulty element with a leak to ground or one with faulty connections will draw a higher load.
Cheers,
CIV
You're welcome.nirdvorai wrote: Thanks for that great information.
I see.nirdvorai wrote: ... old house, where some of the sockets are loose.
... although got warm, it's not was as warm ...
Well, loose sockets are not a good thing to have when you are plugging in a coffee machine with a 1000W boiler at 1.2 bar.
I'd start by getting the plug changed to see how the machine behaves.
If the plug still gets warm, you should have the machine looked at by a reputable shop.
After that, I suggest you contact a licenced electrician and have him check out the house's electrical installation to put things in order.
Also, if not present, do install a GFCI breaker.
Yes, the heating element.nirdvorai wrote: ... you mean the heating element?
A faulty element with a leak to ground or one with faulty connections will draw a higher load.
Cheers,
CIV
- nirdvorai (original poster)
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 508
- Joined: 5 years ago
Thanks CIV,
I appreciate your help on that matter!
Nir
I appreciate your help on that matter!
Nir
- civ
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: 17 years ago
Hello:
Please post on how you fared with this.
May be eventually helpful to others.
Cheers,
CIV
You're welcome. =-)nirdvorai wrote: Thanks ...
Please post on how you fared with this.
May be eventually helpful to others.
Cheers,
CIV
- nirdvorai (original poster)
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 508
- Joined: 5 years ago
Sure.civ wrote:Hello:
Please post on how you fared with this.
May be eventually helpful to others.
Cheers,
CIV
I disassembled the machine today.
all the electric harness and connectors looks pretty bad inside. I think I will order a new harness and renew the whole electric components.
- truemagellen
- Posts: 1227
- Joined: 14 years ago
I was going to say. That plug looks like they took 220v plug and modified it to match 110v. Notice the liquid electrical tape on the plug? Not good.
Definitely replace the wiring. I did this on my Faema Faemina and it doesnt cost much and just a lot of your time. Gives you a nice piece of mind.
Given the hack job on how they scratched out the 220v and the wiring I would do a serious look over of the whole machine and get it right, you won't regret it and you know it will keep its value.
Will be exciting to have it all refreshed when you are done pulling amazing shots.
Definitely replace the wiring. I did this on my Faema Faemina and it doesnt cost much and just a lot of your time. Gives you a nice piece of mind.
Given the hack job on how they scratched out the 220v and the wiring I would do a serious look over of the whole machine and get it right, you won't regret it and you know it will keep its value.
Will be exciting to have it all refreshed when you are done pulling amazing shots.
- nirdvorai (original poster)
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 508
- Joined: 5 years ago
Truemagellen,
I saw a few "American" Olympia Cremina. In some the plate stated only 110v and in some the 220v was deleted and remarked with 110v.
For me it's a bit mystery if that is factory delete or a person. And it seems a bit sloppy for a swiss menufactor to do so.
Any how, I stripped all the machine down with the intention to rebuild it again and replace everything that need to be replaced.
I saw a few "American" Olympia Cremina. In some the plate stated only 110v and in some the 220v was deleted and remarked with 110v.
For me it's a bit mystery if that is factory delete or a person. And it seems a bit sloppy for a swiss menufactor to do so.
Any how, I stripped all the machine down with the intention to rebuild it again and replace everything that need to be replaced.