Need help with Ararex Caravel

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Hockeydudde
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#1: Post by Hockeydudde »

Hello!
LONG time lurker, just never introduced myself.
I'm currently working on a v 1.1 (I think) Ararex Caravel. Trying to get it running so I can use it while the daily driver gets rebuilt.
I've got a 110 us plug installed. Light works and heater warms up. But something seems wrong. Light and heater come on when the reservoir/group head are not installed. When I install the reservoir, there is a tab that pushes on the thermostat and turns the light and heater off. I've played with the therm adjustment, but it doesn't make any difference. I'll post up pics once I figure how to do that.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Brian

Hockeydudde (original poster)
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#2: Post by Hockeydudde (original poster) »

Here she is:





Hockeydudde (original poster)
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#3: Post by Hockeydudde (original poster) »

And here is the tab that pushes on the thermostat.
Is it bent too far away from the body?


And the wiring:

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yakster
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#4: Post by yakster »

There's an old thread that documents the adjustment. I'll try to find it later.
-Chris

LMWDP # 272

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yakster
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#5: Post by yakster »

Here's some threads that may help:

VAM/Caravel thermostats - anatomy and issues

Thermostat versus PID on a Caravel

Caravel Thermostat Problems

Good luck. I'll ask a mod to move this to the Lever forum where it may get more eyeballs.
-Chris

LMWDP # 272

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Jeff
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#6: Post by Jeff »

I would definitely avoid bending that tab.

The springs that support the front of the reservoir may have taken on a set over the years, changing the angle of the reservoir. At least on the VAM models I have worked with, they can be replaced reasonably easily.

Hockeydudde (original poster)
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#7: Post by Hockeydudde (original poster) »

Thanks for the pointers!
Read through those threads. The small screw behind the power button didn't do anything for the thermostat. It just adjusted the power switch setting on mine.
I don't need the thermostat really, water boils at 204 F here, so even if it was kept at a rolling boil, that would be manageable. But I don't want to bypass incase I accidentally let it boil dry. (Even though the safety risk with a 138 w element is pretty low, lol)

I ended up using a torch to heat up the bi-metal tab on the reservoir then "adjusting" it by pushing it to the body while it cooled. Did it slowly and after the third time, adjustment works like a charm now. About 2/3 setting on the thermostat keeps it at a simmer (about 200 F).

Now I need a tamper and to figure out how to pull a shot without a soupy mess when it's done!

Thanks for the help.

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Jeff
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#8: Post by Jeff »

Anything from a pill bottle, drain plug, or a fancy one from Orphan Espresso works. No "precision tampers" when the baskets both are tapered and vary a lot from one to another.

I have bought custom puck screens from https://www.etsy.com/listing/1067222786 ... esh-second a few times, including Arrarex-sized ones.

Hockeydudde (original poster)
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#9: Post by Hockeydudde (original poster) »

Using a spice bottle that does double duty as a doser right now, lol.

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yakster
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#10: Post by yakster »

Here's some 3D print files for Arrarex Caravel parts, handle, tamper, funnel. You can also take a regular 3D tamper and scale it down to fit which is what I did for use with a reusable salad dressing cup that I use to store ground coffee to take to work to brew later.

https://www.yeggi.com/q/arrarex+caravel/

Show us your 3D Prints 2023

-Chris

LMWDP # 272