La Pavoni Europiccola upgrades... worth it? - Page 2

A haven dedicated to manual espresso machine aficionados.
ziptie
Posts: 106
Joined: 7 years ago

#11: Post by ziptie »

If you're set on using paper filters as puck screens, then know that there are craft paper punches available. They're available in various diameters. I've found that the 2-inch size works well for the millenium LP. Although I regularly use the coffeesensor stainless puck screen. It works well and rinses clean.

And I agree with Osku that the isolator is unnecessary for Gen 3 LPs. The other items/mods mentioned are worthwhile.

jtrops
Posts: 499
Joined: 9 years ago

#12: Post by jtrops »

The Aeropress filters work perfectly out of the box, no need to trim. The stainless Aeropress screens won't fit though, too big.

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Rickpatbrown (original poster)
Posts: 460
Joined: 5 years ago

#13: Post by Rickpatbrown (original poster) »

Here is my basket and a puck. It looks slightly angled. I imagine this baskets are formed by a piston pressing a piece of steel through a die. I dont know if the rounded bottom and small taper can be helped.

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drgary
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#14: Post by drgary »

LObin wrote:Seems you're considering a millennium/gen 3 machine, correct?

The mods I think are game-changers are not actually part of your list! :D

1. Bottomless portafilter
2. Puck screen
3. Digital group thermometer
4. Single hole steam tip
5. Steam tap silicone mod
6. Bong isolator or teflon heat breaker (if making more than one shot per session)

A better tamper (a necessity), IMS shower screen and group sleeve upgrade (SS or brass) are also worth it no doubt.

A pressure profiling kit is a nice addition but a lot of owners have reported not looking a it as much after a while. If it was me, I'd favor all the things I've listed before thinking of a PP kit.

You're about to enter the rabbit hole... enjoy!


Cheers!
The one thing I wouldn't recommend is the Bong Isolator. The first version of it was made of plastic that would distort and is starting to leak and crack in some machines. The next version has improved plastic, but I would like to see such a device sandwiching thinner layers to metal flanges so that the flanges bear the load. You can fashion a much thinner heat break gasket or learn how to use the machine as is for multiple back-to-back shots. There are threads on this site about doing that.

Also this is a home lever designed to heat quickly and pull a few shots. It can be temperature surfed to switch coffees in one session. Other levers are better for temperature stability, like the Caravel or Streitman, or a home lever with a commercial group.
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

ojt
Posts: 837
Joined: 6 years ago

#15: Post by ojt »

drgary wrote:The one thing I wouldn't recommend is the Bong Isolator.
Sort of agree here, especially if one is new to the Pavoni or sometimes ends up with too tight pulls. Once you know to stay in right temperature ranges and grind it actually holds up to the use quite well. In my experience at least.

Funny thing is I actually just this weekend decided it is better to let the machine heat up 30 to 35 minutes minimum, even with the isolator. The whole machine just reaches a better temperature overall.
Osku

rbrave
Posts: 12
Joined: 3 years ago

#16: Post by rbrave »

Question for those using a bottomless portafilter - do you still use your original one? I'm debating if it's worth modifying my stock portafilter vs. buying a new one. I feel like the biggest benefit of getting a new bottomless portafilter is more about getting a portafilter with a spring vs. being able to see the basket...

Another thing I'll add for consistency - using a distribution tool vs. tamper.

"Cheap" version (49mm - $25): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DH ... UTF8&psc=1
BPlus (49.5mm - $45 + $42 shipping to US(!) = $87): https://www.bplus.biz/products/la-pavon ... ibutor-1-1

ziptie
Posts: 106
Joined: 7 years ago

#17: Post by ziptie replying to rbrave »

The only thing I use the original PF for on my '04 LP is to ensure an even reseating of the GH gasket. But you could obviously still convert it to bottomless and use it for the gasket task. My stock PF has no spring groove for the basket. Weird.

Some of the things referred to as distribution tools are really only leveling the surface of the grounds. As JH calls them, "spinny spinny" things. Ha!
I use one of those levelers and an actual distribution tools (mine is from Bplus). I believe both are worthwhile. Some folks don't even tamp. They simply set their "spinner" depth to accomplish both the leveling and a sort of tamping. To each their own.

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drgary
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#18: Post by drgary »

Here's where user skills can help. If you are measuring temperature at the group, which is where it counts, the is no need for a long warmup. Once the machine has warmed up enough that the pressurestat is turning on and off to maintain boiler pressure at about 0.8 bar, you can use half pumps to bring the group to the desired start temp for your coffee. You could start with a darker roast that you need to pull at cooler temp. Your next shot could be a lighter roast that you pull at a higher start temp that suits it. There are many ways to quickly cool the group if your next shot wants that. I dip mine in a glass of cool water if that's what I want. My freezer stores different roast level coffees, so I use my closed boiler manual levers to temperature surf with ease. And my grinder is good for single dosing. Some of my machines don't have a pressure gauge. But I've pre-tuned them to run at 0.8 bar. I don't measure shot pressure but don't pull super hard, watch the stream for proper flow and ease off during the pull to avoid overextraction. The essentials are measuring group temp, a good grinder and good coffee.
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

mikel
Posts: 149
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#19: Post by mikel »

drgary wrote:Here's where user skills can help.
The essentials are measuring group temp, a good grinder and good coffee.
That's been my experience too with manual levers. I have pressure gauges on my two levers and found grouphead temperature to play a bigger role than variations in pressure during the shot. If I get the grouphead temp right, then I get fairly similar shots between machines.

rbrave
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Joined: 3 years ago

#20: Post by rbrave »

What specific temp sensors are people using? There appear to be a lot of different options, some nicer looking than others. I'm about to try out one of the passive ones from Flair (https://flairespresso.com/product/temperature-strips/), but would go digital if there was something that didn't look like it belonged in a furnace control room.