drgary wrote:It is NSF / ANSI 61 certified. As I understand it this relates to its being used with potable water and storage of chemicals that are outside our interest here. The bottle shows it can be a skin and eye irritant, so I wouldn't leave a dot on my hand after applying it. When I've used it, it plugged tiny pinholes and dried, and I believe the NSF/ANSI certification relates to it not leaching into potable water within its temperature range.
I got the boiler up to pressure and sprayed water around the that area, no leaks, no steam. The copper seems to be solid. I will keep the loctite method in mind if any issues would arise. For larger holes, would you ever consider using an epoxy putty: https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/epoxies/permatex-steel-weld/
Paul_Pratt wrote:I would not risk silver solder on that unless you plan on rechroming the boiler. A soft lead-free solder can be used and you should be able to use it without ruining the chrome. I think there is something there that needs attention.
I tapped the copper, it is very solid. Other than drilling out that whole spot (about 3-4 mm in diameter), performing high temperature bronze brazing, or soldering a small brass plate on the inside of the boiler -- I don't see any solution to that copper spot. Having said that, the metal is very solid, and I don't see a reason to touch it. From what I understand copper is softer than brass, but as long as it holds I don't want to do anything to make a problem where there isn't really one... like OldNuc said, if there is no crack in the metal not to worry about it. Would you suggest removing the copper sooner rather than later?