La Pavoni Europiccola 1st Gen - Back Alley Find - Page 4

#31: Post by **C-Antonio** » January 10th, 2020, 4:43 pm

drgary wrote:These work better with the original part and tend to overheat with the higher power element. The 1st gens work really well in cruise mode with the low power element maintaining heat for pulling shots, the heavy group and base acting as heat sinks, and the steam valve gently venting. With the original setup obviously you don't keep the machine running for a long time. You turn these on, pull a few shots and steam milk by engaging the higher powered element, and then turn them off.

When/if I have time I will experiment with my 1st gen machine equipped with a 3rd gen heating element and see if I can keep it powered more gently using a PID. Otherwise it tends to overheat, so that I am toggling it on and off.

If you have a Tstat kicking around you could try that, just as cheap and easy experiment

A PID in these is a bit like putting an infotainment system in an original Fiat 500

Unless you steampunk it up and have a nixie tube temperature display...

#32: Post by **drgary** » January 10th, 2020, 5:26 pm

C-Antonio wrote: If you have a Tstat kicking around you could try that, just as cheap and easy experiment

Good idea. Can you point me to parts?

#33: Post by **tag1260** » January 11th, 2020, 12:36 am

There's a guy in Hungary that will rebuild your old HE if needed.PM me if you want his info. It's the only option other than converting to the newer style with the adapter plate.

#34: Post by **drgary** » January 11th, 2020, 1:40 am

Yes, on page 1 of this thread:

homeburrero wrote:Replacing the element will be tricky as the new elements are different. There is a person in Budapest (Gabor - see Francesco's web pages - http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu/La_Pa ... za_eng.htm ) who can sometimes rebuild these old ones.

drgary wrote:I had Gabor rebuild a heating element for me. It continues to work very well. It's more than a repair. They use the old base but replace the coils.

And it's much less expensive than buying a new element that also requires a fine thread replacement flange that will seat the screws.

#35: Post by **C-Antonio** » January 11th, 2020, 4:59 pm

drgary wrote:Good idea. Can you point me to parts?

In practice you just buy any thermostat that fits the temperature you need/want and place like the stock safety ones (in the ones that had it, just you wouldnt necessarily use it as safety device then, those were 120C or so I think). You can bypass it with a switch if/when you need higher... same concept of any basic coffemaker boiler basically.

drgary wrote:Yes, on page 1 of this thread:
And it's much less expensive than buying a new element that also requires a fine thread replacement flange that will seat the screws.

It depends... where one is located since prices for these things can be absurdly different, shipping yada yada, how long the rebuilt element will last and there will be still the factory making them then?...

#36: Post by **drgary** » January 11th, 2020, 11:56 pm

C-Antonio wrote:It depends... where one is located since prices for these things can be absurdly different, shipping yada yada, how long the rebuilt element will last and there will be still the factory making them then?...

When I got mine from Gabor in Hungary, I shipped my blown element and he sent a rebuilt replacement. Cost a couple years ago was $60 for the rebuild and maybe $20 shipping each way to the United States. How long will it last? The coils are new, which is the same as a new element.

#37: Post by **jwCrema** » January 12th, 2020, 12:54 pm

I have been looking for a replacement heating coil for a vintage machine that is no available from a manufacturer.

In looking at the idea of rebuilding one, it seems you buy coil stock by the voltage/wattage specification. Aside from contorting the stock to a desired shape, once you know how to secure the coil to the boiler fittings properly, what else is needed? The cost of coil, even in small lots is cheap. A total cost of $60 is a win for the consumer and the coil maker considering materials cost and probable time needed.

January 15th, 2020, 6:15 pm

homeburrero wrote:To mount them to your old boiler with a 1.25mm thread on the base you would need a fine threaded 3 bolt ring that is unavailable as a La Pavoni part, but fortunately is now available custom made.

Would there be an issue with having these machined from steel instead of brass? I could pretty easily get a steel one made if it was ever needed, but I'm sure there must be a good reason for the brass that I'm not seeing.

Quick update on a new part that I had made. I modeled a correct year drip grate from a photo online and had it laser cut from stainless. I also made a custom one using the crown logo from the La Pavoni badge just to see how it would turn out. I'm very happy with the factory look but having the spare is cool too.

So now I'm browsing options for a portafilter.

#39: Post by **drgary** » January 15th, 2020, 9:22 pm

You may want to 3D print a drip tray that is customized to these 1st gen models.

3D Print of Drip Tray for 1st Gen La Pavoni, a better fit

#40: Post by **redbone** » January 16th, 2020, 8:33 am

TrevorJB wrote:Would there be an issue with having these machined from steel instead of brass? I could pretty easily get a steel one made if it was ever needed, but I'm sure there must be a good reason for the brass that I'm not seeing.

Quick update on a new part that I had made. I modeled a correct year drip grate from a photo online and had it laser cut from stainless. I also made a custom one using the crown logo from the La Pavoni badge just to see how it would turn out. I'm very happy with the factory look but having the spare is cool too.

So now I'm browsing options for a portafilter.

Fantastic work on the grill. I've always been partial to the original square cutouts and thicker gauge grill of the early first gen LPE. Gabor the heating element guy makes replicas of them. userpix/7761_1st_gen_drip_grate_inserted_in_base.jpg