Just set up my new daily driver, Bezzera Lever - Page 3

A haven dedicated to manual espresso machine aficionados.
LObin
Posts: 1792
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#21: Post by LObin »

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXEzAm1IwR8

Try this.

Is it a new pipe or an original one?
LMWDP #592

D Hoge (original poster)
Posts: 17
Joined: 3 years ago

#22: Post by D Hoge (original poster) »

The tubing had been replaced with nut and ferrules. I've replaced the ferrule and still leaks.
I guess the original tubing prob had soldered ends. I have a couple different types of ferrules on order. But what I think the culprit is, the nut is too long and it is bottoming out before it seats the ferrule completely. The right size washer on top of the ferrule might work. Also maybe a shorter nut.
But it's a pain to take apart, partly cause the nuts are very stiff (not positive they are correct thread) and I've had them apart a couple times (steam and hot water valves to boiler).
Tried odyssey espresso trick with the tef tape and got everything to seal except at back of steam valve slow leak. I've just left it alone for now so I can enjoy the machine.
Once these parts come in I probably attempt it again.
I saw on another thread a company in Europe that sells everything for her, not sure of their name

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D Hoge (original poster)
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#23: Post by D Hoge (original poster) »

Found them
https://www.cafeparts.com/SubCatFilter/4296/434/0:33/3
Zix that is the link to the bezzera feet that you are going to replace lol
Looks like I could order the tubing from them, pre made

D Hoge (original poster)
Posts: 17
Joined: 3 years ago

#24: Post by D Hoge (original poster) »

https://www.avola-coffeesystems.de/bezz ... er/8242228
Here's another supplier and that is the link to a porta filter for the b2000al ( are the b2000 and b3000 similar?)

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sonnylowe
Posts: 137
Joined: 6 years ago

#25: Post by sonnylowe »

D Hoge wrote:The tubing had been replaced with nut and ferrules. I've replaced the ferrule and still leaks.
I guess the original tubing prob had soldered ends. I have a couple different types of ferrules on order. But what I think the culprit is, the nut is too long and it is bottoming out before it seats the ferrule completely. The right size washer on top of the ferrule might work. Also maybe a shorter nut.
But it's a pain to take apart, partly cause the nuts are very stiff (not positive they are correct thread) and I've had them apart a couple times (steam and hot water valves to boiler).
Tried odyssey espresso trick with the tef tape and got everything to seal except at back of steam valve slow leak. I've just left it alone for now so I can enjoy the machine.
Once these parts come in I probably attempt it again.
I saw on another thread a company in Europe that sells everything for her, not sure of their name
Hey pal, I just ran across your thread, your setup look great!! Glad you're enjoy the machine and getting used to the big girl, she's a beast, but a lovely one.

Sorry again to hear about the steam and water tap leaks, they were definitely fine before she made the trip to you. Let me clear up a few things and possibly give some advice, and remember, my offer to make you new tubes with soldered ferrule still stands.

The original tubes had compression ferrule, they were not soldered. The nuts are also original so they are the correct length and thread, they were tight coming off the first time. I believe the issue is with the replacement ferrules, the ones I sourced locally were slightly different in a few ways, they were a tad shorter and bit smaller outside diameter than the original. And although the 5/16" tubing worked, the factory tubing may have been 8mm, the difference is slight, but could affect the seal!?!?

I think the seating issue lies in the fact that the new ferrules are slight shorter, that would coincide with the nuts seeming to be too long. The smaller diameter would also allow the ferrule to seat lower in the valve, again, making the nuts seem too long. There are a few paths forward from this problem. Source the correct factory ferrules as well as the proper tubing size (if not 5/16"). Try soldering the current ferrules to the tubing to eliminate one possible leak point (there are two, internal ferrules to the tube, and external ferrule to the valve fitting. If the teflon tape helped my guess if the leak lies internally, so soldering might do the trick. As we discussed adding a spacer/washer on top of the ferrule to take up some space inside the nut might help, but you as still relying on compression to seat everything and even the smallest of gaps will leak.

I honestly think the best path forward is making new lines. If you send them back to me I can machine the correct sized ferrules and solder them to new tubing. It would take a few days, I need the old lines to cut and bend the ones to properly fit. The problem with this is you need to do without the machine for a week or two.

As far buying replacement tubes, I'm sure you can, but keep in mind, I switched the steam from the left to right side of the machine, so factory tubing would require you switch it back. Based on your setup I don't think that would be a problem, but it's really up to you.
LMWDP #597

D Hoge (original poster)
Posts: 17
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#26: Post by D Hoge (original poster) »

Thanks Sonny

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zix
Posts: 484
Joined: 18 years ago

#27: Post by zix »

D Hoge wrote:https://www.avola-coffeesystems.de/bezz ... er/8242228
Here's another supplier and that is the link to a porta filter for the b2000al ( are the b2000 and b3000 similar?)
That one... actually looks like it fits! Yay! Thank you, man!
Ordered the "newer" version. Will see if the handle from the Cafelat portafilter fits on it. It should.
LMWDP #047

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zix
Posts: 484
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#28: Post by zix »

Mine just started leaking from the top of the group, each time I pull down. Time for a gasket change, what do you think? Will probably send it in for that, if it is time.
LMWDP #047

BSdV
Posts: 62
Joined: 2 years ago

#29: Post by BSdV »

I don't have any experience with these machines yet but I am an engineer :roll: .
As long as you have the required tools, and can find the correct type of gasket / sealing ring / o ring required then I don't think you need to feel intimidated by any small repair that needs to be done on a machine like this.
Just be careful when tightening anything in brass or copper - best in almost anything. You may have to use a little bit of feeling and know when tight is tight enough.

LObin
Posts: 1792
Joined: 7 years ago

#30: Post by LObin »

zix wrote:Mine just started leaking from the top of the group, each time I pull down. Time for a gasket change, what do you think? Will probably send it in for that, if it is time.
The top gasket is not sealing anymore. Just order a set of 3 gaskets for the Strega piston or CMA. It's quite possible the new blue Cafelat lever gaskets also fit. They're made of silicone so they will never dry out. Otherwise, rubber seals last about 12-18 months.

You also need Dow 111 molykote or another similar lube.

It's a 5 min job that can be done by any beginners. Handy or not. Go for it!

I would leave the machine off since the spring is now exposed to water which can cause it to rust.
LMWDP #592