Jian Yi Lever espresso machine - Page 8

#71: Post by **toolate** » October 30th, 2022, 6:28 pm

Maolo wrote:In the meantime, I'd love to hear the Jian Yi owners' experiences with making espresso. I've recently started roasting my own coffee and it feels like I'm in espresso heaven. I almost find it impossible to make bad tasting espresso. My Niche grinder probably adds to the quality of my espresso. After hundreds of espressos and about 3-4 months of active use I have absolutely no regrets and I cannot see me buying anything else. My machine came with a few dings - regrettable, but apart from that it was just awesome out of the box. I replaced the standard basket with a 22g vst basket and I now use it for anything from 16-20g doses. I mostly stick to 18g in. I may at some stage consider gettting the blue tooth flow profiling setup, but my current espresso is so satisfying, that I will have to wait and see if I ever want to juggle more variables.

if this was written by someone with a track record of posts on a machine other than this one i would be less likely to want to take it with a LARGE grain of salt

October 30th, 2022, 6:38 pm

boshk wrote:can you not send their customer service photos of the broken part? they should send you a replacement.

Thank you.
I am not sure how to reach the manufacturer. I bought through Superbuy and I did reach out to them. They will probably help me out, as the service so far was great, but I'd rather fix it fast if the sensor isn't that expensive.

#73: Post by **jamesz** » October 30th, 2022, 8:47 pm

coffeeOnTheBrain wrote: but I'd rather fix it fast if the sensor isn't that expensive.

If you open the control box you should be able to tell what type of sensor is connected to the PID controller, either K type (2 wires) or PT100 (3 wires). K type thermocouples are only a few $, cheaper than PT100.

October 31st, 2022, 7:36 am

Thank you! I will see what SuperBuy answers than I will decide which route I go.
Seems to be an PT100 which I can get for 6-30€. I am trying to figure out if there is a special food safe version as it is in direct contact with the brew water.

November 1st, 2022, 5:39 am

Does anyone kniw how to contact the manufacturer directly?

November 3rd, 2022, 8:45 am

Did anyone try to use the PID version without the sensor and knows how to wire it for that case? Of course I need to manage the temperature manually in that case by switching the heater on and off.
SuperBuy reached out to the JianYi guys for me and JianYi is so kind to replace the sensor for free. They also told me I could use it now without sensor and that I could "unplug the thread and connect it according to the color". I guess something is lost in translation.
Anyone has an idea what they mean.
Please don't get me wrong I am looking for help but as long as you are guessing an answer I won't try it to avoid damaging the machine.

#77: Post by **jamesz** » November 4th, 2022, 12:22 am

Did anyone try to use the PID version without the sensor and knows how to wire it for that case? Of course I need to manage the temperature manually in that case by switching the heater on and off.

Auber website has a table of temperature vs resistance for THEIR PT100 sensor.
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... ucts_id=46
using that table as reference I guess you could connect a small resistor, say less than 120 Ω (50˚ C) between the white and red wires and short the two red wires. And then set temperature to above 90˚C. In theory this should force the controller to turn on heating forever!!

They also told me I could use it now without sensor and that I could "unplug the thread and connect it according to the color". I guess something is lost in translation.

This most likely means you use the machine (no PID) with boiling water to preheat the group head. When you receive the new sensor just connect it according to wire colours.

I think a simple way to get the machine working for now is to reconnect the broken wires. Any chance you could try that?

November 4th, 2022, 8:45 am

jamesz wrote:Auber website has a table of temperature vs resistance for THEIR PT100 sensor.
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... ucts_id=46
using that table as reference I guess you could connect a small resistor, say less than 120 Ω (50˚ C) between the white and red wires and short the two red wires. And then set temperature to above 90˚C. In theory this should force the controller to turn on heating forever!!

This most likely means you use the machine (no PID) with boiling water to preheat the group head. When you receive the new sensor just connect it according to wire colours.

I think a simple way to get the machine working for now is to reconnect the broken wires. Any chance you could try that?

Thank you for all the great information! I will try to reconnect it as I don't have resistor anywhere where I would find it. Probably somewhere in the cellar from past projects.
Since there are two red cables, do you have any clue how I could identify which is which. The wires inside of the shielding look identical (where the wire is cut).
Some of the wiring diagrams of PT100 look like it might be connected internally but I can't really imagine how that would make sense. My gut feeling is that it is not dangerous to connect them the wrong way but might lead to an offset of the temperature?

#79: Post by **jamesz** » November 4th, 2022, 10:54 pm

Don't know which is which. I believe it does not matter which is connected to which based info here https://www.te.com/usa-en/industries/se ... -rtds.html

You are right that when you reconnect them you will likely change their resistance to cause offset of temperature measurement. Don't know how large and in which direction (+/-) that offset would be. The temperature controller on my Jan Yi uses a thermocouple and heating ring. Otherwise I wouldn't mind playing with some resistors to see what will happen.

If you are not sure you can always relax and wait for a new sensor.

November 5th, 2022, 4:50 am

Awesome thank you I just stripped the wires and connected them with a chocolate block. The offset was really bad. Set temperature was 93C but the water started boiling. I swapped the wires and the offset is now 1-2C measured with a roasting thermometer.
My first shots were gushers but that is hardly a fault of the sensor. It was somehow expect as my grinder was dialed in for a Picopresso. Anyway, the shots tasted ok.