Izzo Alex Leva. Piston touches the screen.

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#1: Post by Red_Donkey »

This will probably only make sense to Alex Leva owner, who have changed the piston seals.

When the piston is released it touches the screen in the bottom. I recently changed the teflon ring and the rubber gasket. But I think it was always like this, it's just a little bit worse after the last change.

I have tightened the piston from the bottom up as far as I can with that DIY plastic-tool, that others have used. And it is as tight as can be. But still the whole piston assembly is a couple of millimeters too long, and it is impossible to get the circclip into the groove beneath the shower screen. But I can get the circlip to kind of hold the shower screen in place, but it's not seated far enough and into the groove. Also the piston touches the shower screen, when down. So I need to shorten the piston assembly.

It would be easy to sand down the little brass-ring, that sits just above the teflon ring. But I feel a bit reluctant to modify my original parts. This brass-ring is flat on the top, but tapered in the bottom, to be able to push the also tapered teflonring outwards.

Could I just sand down the teflon-ring (at an angle, as it is tapered)? Or does it need to be done to perfection to do its work? Any tips on how to do this?

Or are there other teflon-rings that are 1-2 millimeter thinner? Or do the sizes jump in bigger steps?

I cannot seem to tighten the springs anymore (further up in the assembly), to get more room in the bottom (for teflon, brassring, piston and all the other parts). They are completely stuck, and I think they haven't been rotated since factory.

What do you guys reckon?

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#2: Post by truemagellen »

So it could be there is just some interference on the thread near bottom.

Just check it and clean with a qtip. If thread is damaged it could be on the shaft so it would be tricky to solve this without taking entire group apart (chase the thread and clean it up on both parts?).

Alternatively you could work without a shower screen and use that screen at the top of the puck until you find a solution. I ordered a sintered stainless disc screen to do that anyway since I use them on my other machines.

Ideally you would have the shower screen and the top of puck screen but it isn't a requirement, as long as you have one I'd choose on the puck vs shower.

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#3: Post by pizzaman383 »

I would take the group apart and make sure that all the parts are in the proper orientation.
LMWDP #551
“Taste every shot before adding milk!”

Red_Donkey (original poster)

#4: Post by Red_Donkey (original poster) »

Do any of you know, if the spring nut at the top, is always fully tightened on the thread? Can it be tightened even more? Or is it always as far as it can go? Mine is a bit stuck.


#5: Post by Tbrandt1996 »

Did everything fit together correctly before you changed the piston seal and Teflon ring? I would check that your new seals are the same dimensions as the old. Also make sure the brass spacer and ring fit together correctly between the piston, seals, and Teflon ring. I had mine seated incorrectly the first time I took it apart to clean and it didn't go back in correctly much like the situation you describe.

Red_Donkey (original poster)

#6: Post by Red_Donkey (original poster) »

It's been a couple of years since my first seal change. But I seem to remember there always being pretty tight when cleaning and reinstalling the shower screen. So I think, it's always been a tight fit. But what made me think, that it had always been wrong, was when I now tried to install the shower screen while the piston was up. And it just clicked perfectly into the groove. Fitted like a glove. But when I then put the piston down, it was hitting the screen. This was what made me think, it had been wrong all along.

The brass rings and the teflon ring are fitted correctly, if you mean by taking the "tapering" into account. As they squeeze together, they should push/squeeze the teflon ring outwards.

I just double checked the assembly, and took it out again. This time I measured the teflon ring at 5.7 mm thickness, in case anyone has a spare they can compare to.

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#7: Post by truemagellen »

pizzaman383 wrote:I would take the group apart and make sure that all the parts are in the proper orientation.
I agree plus he could take out the 2nd spring and play around with it with just the 1.

On side note I still think about the water site glass on your dual dipper machine it is the best placement. Funny how ACS has made a couple machines with very similar characteristics to yours.


#8: Post by andyone »

truemagellen wrote:I agree plus he could take out the 2nd spring and play around with it with just the 1.
I also have a San Marco lever group, but am not yet familiar with it.
Is it possible to take out the springs without any tools? If yes, would you mind sharing how to do?
I am also struggling with the little valve behind the group - after a short flush my group is sometimes leaking a bit some water through the shower screen. My machine is a hx design (LSM 75 export).


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#9: Post by truemagellen »

you can easily take that valve apart without dismantling the group. There is likely scale in there but the seal could also be gummed up. Could try descalling it from the valve but no guarantee it will work.

I can send a link of how to dismantle the spring it is a long video but goes into full assembly dissassembly.

Red_Donkey (original poster)

#10: Post by Red_Donkey (original poster) »

I've tried to loosen the nut that is holding the springs. But it's too tight. I put the whole thing in a vice and started turning, but stopped because I was afraid of breaking the pin on the opposite end, that was locking the threaded aixle. I think it was rusted tight.