Help identify this lever machine. - Page 3

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Nbudor (original poster)
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#21: Post by Nbudor (original poster) »

@drgary: I have written to Carimali support to see if they have any technical drawings for the Jollyna. So far no response. I can have the housing made here, I think, but in order to make a CAD model I need either the original housing or the exact measurements of the original (including angles and thickness of the material.
@pizzaman383: I was thinking the same, but I would like to get it as close to the original as I can. Should this fail, than I will explore the wooden side panels. Even with wood I would like to replicate the original angled (trapezoidal?) shape of side panels.

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drgary
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#22: Post by drgary »

Nbudor wrote:@drgary: I have written to Carimali support to see if they have any technical drawings for the Jollyna. So far no response. I can have the housing made here, I think, but in order to make a CAD model I need either the original housing or the exact measurements of the original (including angles and thickness of the material.
Since Paul Pratt has a restored Jollyna, maybe he can send you photos and measurements essential to your project. For restoring a missing grate, I would go off the one that's original, if that matters, or improve on the one you had. Your machine is more rare than my Conti Prestina, where I fabricated my own version of a drip grate, not trying to be original but just wanting to have something that looked nice.
Gary
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What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

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Nbudor (original poster)
Posts: 37
Joined: 5 years ago

#23: Post by Nbudor (original poster) »

I started tearing down the machine. Side panels are pretty crudely made and paint job was really just to cover old paint. Makes one wonder what happened to original panels.



Group gasket is glued to the group, and from what I can tell so far, whoever serviced the machine used silicone to seal the boiler, along with the proper gaskets.
So far I managed to loosen 10 out of 20 bolts on the boiler, I've given up for now until I get a proper wrench and better chemical for seized bolts. Whoever decided to use mild steel with copper and aluminium in the system should be shot.

Nbudor (original poster)
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#24: Post by Nbudor (original poster) »

I took of one of the boiler flanges, and discovered that the frame that acts as boiler support was broken:

There is a lot of damage from corrosion on the ring of the frame, that I'm not exactly sure how to fix. The frame itself I can get welded, but the surface that was in contact with the boiler is made uneven by the corrosion.
And I thought this leg of the project was going to be easy...

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drgary
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#25: Post by drgary »

The welder can add metal that you can grind down, I think. But what a hassle! Sorry you ran into this.
Gary
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What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

Nbudor (original poster)
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#26: Post by Nbudor (original poster) »

Luckily, guys that I intended to use for powder coating also weld and repair aluminium. I'm also told that there's a way to add material by brazing.
If someone who has this type of boiler could clarify one thing: the boiler body and flange are held together by the frame from one side and aluminum ring from the other. There's a fiber gasket between the flange and the boiler, but I can't help to wonder if there was a gasket between the frame and the boiler itself? From what I could see, aluminium corroded because of the direct contact with the boiler and/or water. I could be wrong, there's no damage on the boiler body or flanges.
I Still have to remove the rest of the bolts from the broken frame, they are rust-welded to the aluminum, there's also the whole element-side flange. to deal with. Ah, yes, the aluminium outer rings broke during the process of bolt removal.
Incidentally, I've noticed that side panels of Bezzera Mitica I had laying around would fit the frame with some modification.
The welder can add metal that you can grind down, I think. But what a hassle! Sorry you ran into this.
Well, suffering builds character. Or so I'm told.

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Bluecold
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#27: Post by Bluecold »

I would indeed add a galvanic barrier between the flange amd the support, be it paper or teflon. I would also ask around if someone wants to anodize the supports to better protect them from corrosion.

Repairing the support isn't strictly necessary for structural reasons. The boiler flange is strong enough to support itself.
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"Though I Fly Through the Valley of Death I Shall Fear No Evil For I am at 80,000 Feet and Climbing."

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Nbudor (original poster)
Posts: 37
Joined: 5 years ago

#28: Post by Nbudor (original poster) »

I was thinking in the line of adding an o-ring between the boiler and the support. True that the flange can support the weight of the boiler, but I still need to repair the support because the boiler, gasket and flange are sandwiched between support and outer aluminium ring, not repairing the support would result in poor sealing of the boiler. Or I would need to modify the boiler in some way that would be more complicated than repairing the support.

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Paul_Pratt
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#29: Post by Paul_Pratt »






Nbudor (original poster)
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#30: Post by Nbudor (original poster) »

Paul, thank you so much! Hopfully I will be able to recreate side panels from the photo.
I was able to free the boiler from supports, breaking the aluminium outer rings, unfortunately some of the screws were basically welded to the ring.
The same screws are still stuck in aluminium supports, I'm probably try to drill them out as I'm afraid that if I continue to use the hammer, I'll break the supports.
As far as I could tell, there's no damage to the boiler body or flanges. All of the damage is in the bottom part of the supports. My guess is that leaky gasket caused aluminum to corrode and bend, or the previous owner didn't tighten enough bolts in the bottom, or something.