Your machine looks like it was using gas. The tap on which you have the p-stat is for the cup warmer.

You should hook up the cup warmer as usual, for the p-stat use the fitting in the lower right hand side of the photo with the 3 chalk marks. You can see a line goes from the fitting to what appears to be a gas pressure switch. Remove the line that goes to the gas pressure switch and hook up the Sirai switch to that - unless of course there is a spare fitting somewhere. But don't obviously continue with your temporary connection to the cup warmer valve.

So it is for a cup warmer! I was sure it was, but didnt think that would need a tap!

Many thanks.

Not sure what you mean regarding the Pstat location. I don't have any spare pipes.
What exactly is the bottom right outlet of the machine for? - i believe it might be a lower cup warmer for the drip tray...

LeverFever wrote:Not sure what you mean regarding the Pstat location. I don't have any spare pipes.
What exactly is the bottom right outlet of the machine for? - i believe it might be a lower cup warmer for the drip tray...

Unless you plan on using it with gas you can remove the pipe that goes to the gas valve and use that fitting:



However now looking at the new photo I would keep the gas valve pipe as-is and use the fitting/pipe you just labelled "to bottom right outlet at front of machine". It is at the element end of the boiler so a much better position.

No idea what that pipe was for, maybe for a pressure switch.

Had another play this morning, with a view to putting the covers back on and using it!

Unfortunately i can't stop the weeping from the 4 connections marked with chalk above. Not sure what else to try

Also, the small flame function of the gas valve doesn't seem to work. (not sure what can go wrong really)
Stripped and cleaned, the diaphragm part moves easily enough when heated with hot water, yet even with the large spring wound fully out the flame doesn't change.

All the things i expected to cause headaches, such as groups and seals leaking, im getting stumped at the final hurdle by seeminlg easy fixes!
Help me get this over the line please guys

I have seen that the mushroom on some of my fittings have a groove indentation from where the seat was when tightened very tightly. You might be able to jiggle the lines as you seat the tubes to settle the seat into the groove. If that doesn't work you may need to inspect and clean up the surface of the mushroom.

If you want to attempt a fix then get some green scotch brite and polish up the ball end until bright, use a wet pad to do this. A very little bit of metal must be removed to get a seal. The grocery store sells the kitchen songe with scotch brite, yellow sponge and the required green scotch brite. Do not use any type of abrasive paper or cloth.

Exactly correct on the groove Pizzaman - and i have tried re aligning the pipes to no avail.

Will try the scotchbrite later.

Regarding the flame regulator, i can't see why this would fail. Where can i buy another/what are they called?

Flame regulator would probably have to come from a period machine or you might be able to source a compatible replacement part from any manufacture that still offers a gas option but a new on will not be cheap.

Scotch brite works as long as the fitting is not severely distorted from repeated over tightening.

Thanks. I can't see whats wrong with it really. When i put hot water on the diaphragm i can depress the 'valve' with a slight bit of force. Yet when all assembled the boiler pressure doesn't seem to affect it. Any idea?