Futurmat Palanca - 4 Conductor Cable

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Tio Tom

#1: Post by Tio Tom »

I recently purchased a Futurmat Palanca 2 group lever machine. I am almost ready to set it up for a test. However, I am concerned that the electrical cable has 4 conductors. In my past experience with industrial motors, 4 conductors means 3-phase power. I have always understood that you cannot connect 3 phase power to a resistive load. I have never seen this on an espresso machine. A friend installed a 20 amp 220 outlet in my home for testing and using larger machines but it only has three conductors. Another friend who is a a qualified electrician suggested that I combine the ground and neutral conductors in the cable and hook it up to my 220 outlet. Anyone have a comment on this? Thanks very much.

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#2: Post by stefano65 »

Normally speaking in Italian wired commercial machine ( yours is Spanish but lets say in the EU will be the same)you will have :
three-four different colors for "phases" or called hot wires
black, red, white, marron
anything but blue with is the "neutral"
then a ground
connecting the ground which is normally yellow stripped green to the neutral is not normally what to do.
A picture of your colors in the plug or even the HE or the entry main connector
can clarify even further that.
Again going by normally Italian wiring you will:
connect all phase colors to
"one leg" of US 230V
the blue to "the other leg"
then the yellow/green to the ground.
As mentioned above the normal is as above,,,, without yours in front of the eyes cannot be so.
Stefano Cremonesi
Stefano's Espresso Care
Repairs & sales from Oregon.

Team HB

#3: Post by ira »

I've only seen a small number of 220V machines, but some of them are set up so that it is easy to convert between single and 3 phase. If the heating element has 6 connections and the pressurestat, usually Sirai, has 3 poles and the control box is 220V then switching between three and single phase is simple. All it takes is connecting one side of the 3 elements to one side of the 220 and the other side to the pressurestat or contactor. Then you have a single phase element and the rest should be obvious. The only concern when going from three to single is the current per wire increases and the wire size to the elements should be checked. Or that's what I've observed.

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#4: Post by Paul_Pratt »

The easiest way to understand what is going on is look at the heating element as the Voltage stamp should be visible. If it is 220 or 380 you can tell within a few minutes. That said real 380v machines are not that common, especially for a 2 group. They do exist, just I think the 220V configuration is more common.

What I believe you have is a much more common 2ph / 1ph machine and the elements are 220V. You can run it either as 1PH or 2PH. For example:

The element is 220V but is 2 smaller elements. You can combine 1PH and 2PH (just wire together at the plug) and wire it as 1PH. If you have 2 phases available you wire 1PH and 2PH individually. Just a way to reduce the load if you have 2 phases handy.

As I said just have a look around at the voltages on elements, solenoid coils etc...if your elements are 380V then ignore the picture above and give us more details.

Tio Tom (original poster)

#5: Post by Tio Tom (original poster) »

Thank you all very much for your excellent comments and your patience with a novice. I was able to take some photos today [which is what I should have done in the first place] and it appears that the ground wire is used just as that, a ground for the machine which is what Stefano described. My only question is that my service at home is a standard 20 amp 220v with no ground wire. I guess I could try to figure out some way to attach the ground wire to the box or conduit. I am also including some other photos of the machine itself. It has a connection for gas if desired and it appears to operate like a pressurestat to maintain pressure. I would hope that it has a 'pilot' light to restart when needed. It does have an ignitor to get it going.

I am unable to see an 'anti-vacuum' valve anywhere. There is an 'open' tube off the top of the level gauge. From what I can see does not have any sort of a control valve. I have no idea as to how this can work once the boiler comes up to pressure. The machine is like new. The previous ownere had no idea of what it was and I made him a offer and I became the owner. One final questionm who knows how long it has been sitting around with no use. Is there anything to keep in mind with regard to the packings in the cylinders when I try to use it?

Thanks again for your interest it is very much appreciated.

Tio Tom (original poster)

#6: Post by Tio Tom (original poster) »

Thank you very much to those that provided the very helpful comments. I am definitely closer to putting the machine on the kitchen counter and trying it out. I am trying to understand the flow of water during the brewing cycle. From what I see it seems that the groups draw hot water directly from the boiler through the exchangers. [Please see the piping outlined in blue in the attached photo] There is no other connection to the exchangers for supply. So if this is true, what function do the exchangers have? I have always said that I would never drink boiler water in something like an 'americano' because I have opened up a number of boilers and I have seen what is inside of them. So, is what I am saying correct? Does the brew cycle depend upon the huge mass of the groups to decrease the temperature of the water for a good extraction? If you flush the group prior to extracting the water coming in is probably going to be hotter than what you just eliminated. Can you tell I have never had one of these? Thanks very much again.

Supporter ♡

#7: Post by Marcelnl »

JUst keep in mind that the residue in a boiler is a result of the water feeding it....I'm destilling water for my machine, and the residue in the destiller looks pretty awful yet the water itself is pretty good.
LMWDP #483

Tio Tom (original poster)

#8: Post by Tio Tom (original poster) »

Thanks to a number of excellent comments, both here and under the topic of 'DIpper vs. HX' I now understand the flow of water to the group head during extraction. I am more anxious than ever to get the thing working to see just how it performs.

So, the heating element is 220V with two 'hot' wires. [Black and Brown] plus the Blue wire. [Please see the photos of the 4 conductors in the cable plus the heating element] I checked the pressurestat and it is only switching two wires, the Brown and Black. I also verified that the Blue wire lands on the main switch.

I am still unsure what to do to test the machine. My 220v service in my house is just that, two hots and a ground. I could try to connect the plug using just the the Black and Brown as 'hots' and the Green/Yellow as the ground and leave out the Blue. I also have a 220V Nuova Simonelli Aurelia and when I checked it, the cable only has two hots and a ground, yet at the heating element it does have the three wires. [Blue, Black and Brown] Whatever anyone may be able to offer would be much appreciated. Thank you very much.

Tom Burton
Hialeah Florida

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Team HB

#9: Post by Jake_G »

Combine the black and brown together at the plug and connect to one side of the 220V power. Connect the blue to the other side and the yellow/green to ground.

You can tell this is the correct way by looking at the heating element and your description of the pressurestat.

The heating element has a jumper on the blue wire across the two elements, providing constant power from the main switch.

The pressurestat is switching both the brown and black wires to split the amperage going through the pressurestat contacts - this makes it last even longer than it normally would, which for a Sirai is a very long time. Connecting black and brown together at the end of the cord ensures that both of the heating elements are switched to the same source. They are already fed by the same blue wire, so this completes the circuit.


LMWDP #704

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#10: Post by Paul_Pratt »

As Jake says you normally combine the black and brown at the plug to form one "leg". I am a 220V person so that would be our Live and the Blue is the Neutral.