Faema President 1-Group Restoration/Maintenance

A haven dedicated to manual espresso machine aficionados.
MarvelousBiorr
Posts: 14
Joined: 4 years ago

#1: Post by MarvelousBiorr »

Hello everyone my name is Charles and I have recently come by a Faema President 1-group. Which had an immediate casualty of the cup guard.


It was in what looked like good shape, 220v and so I knew from the beginning I would need to at the very least convert the heating element to prep the machine to run in the US. Upon removal of the heating element, I discovered the machine had been restored in part but hard water has been used since that time.




All in all the machine has a few things to be cleaned up and repaired. I believe a citric bath to clean the scale from the boiler and various pipes and steam wand should do well. The Group's spring will need to be replaced and be my first time doing so which I'm both looking forward to and carefully considering how I can be as cautious as possible. The group was also not using the traditional hex bolts which I will be working on replacing soon. The 110v heating element, plug, new gasket, piston seals and other pieces are waiting to be installed until I can get around to cleaning everything and replacing the spring which I will need to buy. Any suggestions for other items to consider buying preemptively on the group would be appreciated. I am trying to keep most of it original and even would like to keep the Mercury switch it came with. For now here Is the current state of things.



-Charles

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Paul_Pratt
Posts: 1467
Joined: 19 years ago

#2: Post by Paul_Pratt »

That is a lovely original machine, shame about the top plexi that would annoy me no end. The modern plexis are a darker colour and a bit out of place. The only non original part I can see if the plastic drain box, understandable as the aluminium ones corrode and and they usually have to be cut out.

I would keep the original pressure switch, they are bullet proof. For the safety valve there should be small top pin which I cant see in the photo, has a triangular shaft. If you have all the parts you can reuse it, they do hiss though.

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IamOiman
Team HB
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Joined: 7 years ago

#3: Post by IamOiman »

Nice to see our little 'discussions' yielded this result! It sucks the seller packed it in a big box and I could not see on Discord if there was a wood pallet portion at the bottom. I'll also be excited to see the other surprise turn up on your doorstep pretty soon!

Paul is referring to this little bit circled here. I could fit a Faema steam rod gasket on one of my machines and it's pretty tamed if you don't bump the machine hard :D
-Ryan
Using a spice grinder violates the Geneva Convention
LMWDP #612

MarvelousBiorr (original poster)
Posts: 14
Joined: 4 years ago

#4: Post by MarvelousBiorr (original poster) »

Good to know on the switch! I do not seem to have the safety valve and will need to replace that it seems. Along with that I have finally disassembled the whole boiler and worked loose those pesky final bolts. There was some damage to the boiler flange but it appears that the seal itself is undamaged and the machine was in operation from the previous user. Would anyone suggest I do something other than reuse the solution the previous user came up with? I will also be replacing the boiler gasket. Bringing the total damage to a new spring for the lever, and the boiler gasket. I already have the piston seals and gasket in my possession. Scale was not nearly as bad as I imagined though the various pipe work could benefit from a descaling either way.



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drgary
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Joined: 14 years ago

#5: Post by drgary »

Charles, what a wonderful Urania you have? Can you please identify the cracked metal part?
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

kitt
Posts: 844
Joined: 17 years ago

#6: Post by kitt replying to drgary »

Hi Gary , i believe it's the boiler flange on the under side.

Whilst the 'hack' should be safe and water tight as the bolt is contained by the outer ring, it's not something i'd be comfortable leaving as is, but that is up to the user...

MarvelousBiorr (original poster)
Posts: 14
Joined: 4 years ago

#7: Post by MarvelousBiorr (original poster) »

I believe I will be attempting to have the boiler flange repaired by getting some new steel welded to the boiler flange. As you said the bright side is the boiler is at least still in tact where it seals. I also will have to replace the safety valve with a modern one, probably utilizing a t-fitting for the safety valve and anti-vacuum valve. Waiting presently on the parts to arrive for the lever in order to replace the spring. Lots of waiting at this point.

-Charles