Faema Mercurio 3rd Series Tall Group [Finished] - Page 4

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Sansibar99
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#31: Post by Sansibar99 »

civ wrote:Hello:

Hmm ....

If I were you, having landed this fantastic Faema, I would not hesitate for a moment and would, after checking that all holes, threads and welds are as they should be, send it in for a thorough sandblast and the best epoxy power coat you can get. In the original colour, obviously.

I mean, you are only going to do all this once.
ie: I don't see you (save some unforseen disaster) having to tear it down again within your own lifetime.

So, seize the opportunity to do it once and do it royally.
You won't ever regret it.

Cheers,

CIV
I strongly oppose, as this machine is in such pristine condition, that it could keep its charme, history and, of course its financial worth so easily without any big effort.
You won't sandblast a Mona Lisa to clean it up, would you? :wink:

Anyway, it is Lee's machine and his decision - and I think he is well equipped with strong consultants. :D
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IamOiman (original poster)
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#32: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

Hmm I am still on the wall with the powdercoating, but that goes torwards the debate of keeping the machine as original as possible or modding it for modern use. I can make my change from a modern p-stat back to the wobbler weight pretty easily but I cannot easily undo drilling the boiler flange or powdercoating the frame.

Nonetheless I am bringing the boiler in to my metal worker guy to fix up some stress cracks after soaking for a few days in citric acid. There is a little scale first but the worst of it is off and I like keeping the back cupric oxide on the boiler interior if possible. Since I am dropping off the boiler with him I'll also have him dig out the snapped screw and do the cracked water inlet housing. At some point I would like to learn how to do this myself but I do not want to mess it up with this nice machine.





I have some concerns with this small pipe that goes to the steam wand. It has some pretty deep gouges, but the gauge of the pipe is also pretty thick so I may be ok keeping it as is. I have a fitting on my President I could stick it on to test the tubing integrity.


If I were to go with the powdercoating route I would also get the little metal fittings done that hold the body panels together and secure the boiler to the frame from the top.
-Ryan
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IamOiman (original poster)
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#33: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

I decided to media blast and powder coat the frame + little bits. I experimentally started brushing portions of the frame to see what I could get off and a lot of what I thought was nicotine crud was actually rust. I am choosing to do this to ensure I get every bit of the frame cleaned up, though instead of the off-white colour I would normally get I will pick a gray similar to the original frame. Of course nothing on the exterior panelling is planned to be rechromed.
Sansibar99 wrote:I strongly oppose, as this machine is in such pristine condition, that it could keep its charme, history and, of course its financial worth so easily without any big effort.
I think cleaning the frame up is not the worst thing to do to a machine, especially if it is to ensure it assists in keeping the machine in a functional state for decades to come.
-Ryan
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IamOiman (original poster)
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#34: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

I got my new sonic cleaner, a 6L Vevor. It's quite bigger than my old Harbor Freight one, which I burned up during cleaning the Faema President bits and more powerful. I immediately set about de-scaling my fittings in citric acid. I was able to take off four out of the seven fittings from my steam valve and hot water/inlet valve before I decided to spray penetrating fluid and let them sit for a while. They were really gunked up, especially at the hot water fitting since water likely remained in the pipe after use. Fortunately my sonic cleaner made them nice and clean.







For the chrome bits I focused on getting the nicotine build up off using Glo-Joe to great effect. I was able to fit the lower group in the cleaner and at this point for most of the chrome bits they just need a little polishing or are already set. Some of the pieces like the preinfusion mechanism I did not know where chromed until after the cleaning! I even cleaned up the boiler flange pretty nicely. It appears to be iron or steel? A question I have is can I keep the cylinder in the group as is or should I take off the remaining chrome inside?






Finally, on the preinfusion rod there is a very small gasket, measuring 7x4x4mm. I can likely just stuff it with teflon tape but I am asking if there is somewhere I can buy a spare.

-Ryan
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civ
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#35: Post by civ »

Hello:

Looking good .. 8^)
IamOiman wrote: ... can I keep the cylinder in the group as is or should I take off the remaining chrome ...
Like I said earlier, you are only going to do this once.
I'd say that you should take apart anything that can be (safely) taken apart, throroughly clean it and reassemble it.
IamOiman wrote: ... there is a very small gasket, measuring 7x4x4mm.
... somewhere I can buy a spare.
I think that we can safely assume that none of the gaskets found in espresso machines (save some specially designed stuff) were/are anything but off-the shelf stock from a vast catalogue of purveyors albeit some of them very specialised and hard to find.

In the US there are at least two very well stocked on-line hardware stores, one of them is McMaster-Carr.
They probably have a suitable replacement for that gasket with the same or similar dimensions and in one or two different materials.

If not a gasket, maybe a set of one or more fat 'O' rings may do just as well.

BTW: when you use your vise to hold brass parts from your Faema, I suggest using a set of magnetic protective covers such as these:


Image courtesy of Amazon.com

They come in different materials/hardnesses, you have to choose one that will hold as tight as you need without scarring the brass.

Cheers,

CIV

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IamOiman (original poster)
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#36: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

civ wrote: If not a gasket, maybe a set of one or more fat 'O' rings may do just as well.

BTW: when you use your vise to hold brass parts from your Faema, I suggest using a set of magnetic protective covers such as these:
https://www.mcmaster.com/1171N137/
This was the closest I got for a gasket, stacking them two at a time, from Mcmaster-Carr when looking earlier. I think you are right that an o-ring will probably work too.

I use some towels on my vise if I am gripping the brass body of the valve but I should probably get something more appropriate for actually holding soft metals like you suggest.
-Ryan
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civ
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#37: Post by civ »

Hello:
IamOiman wrote: This was the closest I got ...
... an o-ring will probably work too.
Unless you get the same one Faema used, it's trial and error till you get it right.
Part of the game, so to speak. 8^7
IamOiman wrote: ... some towels on my vise ...
A piece of towel will shred/tear when you least expect it, not a good choice.
Please don't ask me how I know that to be a fact.

These magnetic protective pads are a great invention and being able to get them in many different materials going from soft/hard rubber to teflon to aluminium and even soft brass is a godsend. A good workshop vise should never lack these.

I never throw out old worn leather belts or boots.
A piece of leather strap will not tear or shred (unless it is rotten) but they are a nuisance to keep in place.

And if in a hurry or short of cash, get a few pieces of scrap Al or copper sheeting and make yourself some 'L' shaped drop-ins to properly protect whatever piece you are working on. If properly made/sized even without magnets to keep them in place, they will do fine.

Cheers,

CIV

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IamOiman (original poster)
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#38: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

Hmm yea I like the concept of the clip on jaws. I'll check out the rubber faced ones.

Forgot to add the pic of the cylinder itself. It looks like it flaked away or rubbed away over time.
-Ryan
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civ
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#39: Post by civ »

Hello:
IamOiman wrote: ... pic of the cylinder itself. It looks like it flaked away or rubbed away over time.
Yes, I have seen other photos of this type of wear.

I don't know if it is something that can be disassembled without causing any damage or complications.
If it can, it may be a good thing to do so and see what needs to be done to it, if anything besides a thorough cleanup.

I'm not sure but I think I recall reading about one such part (no idea what machine, definitively a lever) being put through a honing machine to bring it back to it's original state, much like what is done to rectify a gasoline engine's cylinders.

Edit: see this post here at HB.

Just a wee bit of metal, maybe between 0.1/0.2 mm is sacrificed and the surface can get to be 100% new and as smooth as the original chrome.
But I think that the best candidate to opine on what has to be done there would undoubtedly be Paul Pratt.

Cheers,

CIV

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#40: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

I got my boiler and some bits dropped off with my metal guy to fix up. The powder coating guy is on vacation so I will not have that done until at least 21 October when he gets back. The boiler flange is mailed off to Pascal for adaptation to accept a new element.

I finally got the bottom group fitting off after some soaking in penetrating oil and the arrival of a 28mm socket. It needed my 3 foot pipe wrench to wrestle loose but now I can do a final cleaning and polishing of the inside and exterior of the group body



The last thing at this point I need to take apart is the upper group assembly. The piston is stuck so I started letting it soak after a heating session with the propane torch. Hopefully I'll get it off soon to start its cleaning process. I can consider myself to be fully in the cleaning portion of this project and since I see what's apart I can place my parts order. The valves use the same gaskets as the E61/President and I have some leftovers from my past projects. The more esoteric stuff is the boiler and group gasket, which I do have a source for.

Project costs from what I am estimating will likely be around $1200 with everything including parts, tools, and labor purchased in the process, and that is a worst case estimate. This is still within my personal budget tolerance with the base cost of the Mercurio.
-Ryan
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