Does Bosco have a "reset button" - would not heat today

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Jasper_8137
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#1: Post by Jasper_8137 »

I've had my Bosco for ~ 8 months. It was bought new from a vendor in Canada. It is a 120V that is plugged into a 20 amp circuit. I use a heavy duty 20 amp timer plugged into a 20 amp GFC outlet. This morning, I got up and the machine was not powered on. I noticed that the GFC outlet had tripped to I reset it and turned on the Bosco. The power light came on and I am pretty sure the autofill came on and topped up the boiler. I then walked away to let it heat. I came back to it ~ 20 minutes later, and to my dismay, it was still cold w/out any heating whatsoever. The power light was still on, but no heat. I have reached out to the vendor but wonder if there is a simple reset button somewhere.
Thanks for any advice.

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BaristaBoy E61

#2: Post by BaristaBoy E61 »

Does the Owner's Manual mention anything?
Do you have a schematic diagram for the machine or an exploded diagram that might reveal further information?
"You didn't buy an Espresso Machine - You bought a Chemistry Set!"

Marmot

#3: Post by Marmot »

If possible I would look inside the machine. A safety switch has to be connected to the heating element. If accessible from the outside I would suspect it to be under the machine or behind the drip tray.
If you are able to open the casing you could measure resistance of the heating element to check if it is damaged.

Jasper_8137 (original poster)
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#4: Post by Jasper_8137 (original poster) »

BaristaBoy E61 wrote:Does the Owner's Manual mention anything?
Do you have a schematic diagram for the machine or an exploded diagram that might reveal further information?
Nothing really in owner's manual other than checking power supply, main power switch and heating element.
Marmot wrote:If possible I would look inside the machine. A safety switch has to be connected to the heating element. If accessible from the outside I would suspect it to be under the machine or behind the drip tray.
If you are able to open the casing you could measure resistance of the heating element to check if it is damaged.
I have taken things apart and checked resistance. I'm getting resistance but am unsure if I'm doing it right.
When plugged in, I get 120v. When off and set to ohms, if I put one lead on one of the studs (not sure if this is correct terminology) and the other on side of the element (where a socket fits to unscrew it), it jumps around a bit but seems to settle at 0.1-0.2 on one reading, and up to 2 on the other. I took a picture to illustrate.


Marmot

#5: Post by Marmot »

As far ar as I know it should read infinite when connected to one contact of the heating element and a metal part of the boiler. So it looks like there is a short. But I would either way contact Bosco or your dealer since it should be still under warranty.
I had something similar on a Cremina. There was a hole in the heating element and when the boiler was filled with water I could turn it on until water got inside and tripped the circuit breaker.

Jasper_8137 (original poster)
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#6: Post by Jasper_8137 (original poster) »

What would the reading of "infinite" look like on the voltage meter? If I put one end on the stud and the other anywhere else on the boiler, this is what I see...



In fact, if I put touch both of the studs on the heater (one lead on each), this is also what I see.

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truemagellen

#7: Post by truemagellen »

All I will add is many of these "heavy duty" timers sold (intermatic are garbage) are points of huge resistance that can overheat wiring and usually it is the weakest point that goes out first. Typically that is the power switch but could be a connector.

I recommend a 20amp wifi plug instead and to check the tighteness of all connections particularly near the switch.

Here is what I have but I'm sure there are others like pool ones.
ConnectSense Smart In-Wall Outlet, WiFi Connected Electrical Smart Wall Socket That's Compatible With Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit Siri and Google Assistant (20A) https://a.co/d/0JSvEgg

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IamOiman
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#8: Post by IamOiman »

That definitely appears not normal.

If you suspect the timer and want to rule it out I would try connecting the machine directly to the outlet and see if a change occurs. I've had the same Intermatic HB-113 timer for about three years now without issue, but I may just be lucky with mine if it has not burned out or become damaged. From the given info I suspect a faulty heating element, which should not be difficult to replace and source if you need to work on it yourself.

The[1 .] indicates that the value measured is too big for the set units to display.
-Ryan
Using a spice grinder violates the Geneva Convention
LMWDP #612

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truemagellen

#9: Post by truemagellen »

IamOiman wrote: I've had the same Intermatic HB-113 timer for about three years now without issue, but I may just be lucky with mine if it has not burned out or become damaged. From the given info I suspect a faulty heating element, .
I've only had 1 intermatic fail of a few (a 220v one running a 2grp Rancilio pump) but they all put a lot of resistance and heated the wiring leading to failures down the line.

I'm thinking heating element now that I noticed the plug power switch is still out up which usually goes when power switch fails

Jasper_8137 (original poster)
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#10: Post by Jasper_8137 (original poster) »

truemagellen wrote:I've only had 1 intermatic fail of a few (a 220v one running a 2grp Rancilio pump) but they all put a lot of resistance and heated the wiring leading to failures down the line.

I'm thinking heating element now that I noticed the plug power switch is still out up which usually goes when power switch fails
IamOiman wrote:That definitely appears not normal.

If you suspect the timer and want to rule it out I would try connecting the machine directly to the outlet and see if a change occurs. I've had the same Intermatic HB-113 timer for about three years now without issue, but I may just be lucky with mine if it has not burned out or become damaged. From the given info I suspect a faulty heating element, which should not be difficult to replace and source if you need to work on it yourself.

The[1 .] indicates that the value measured is too big for the set units to display.
Thanks for the responses.

I spoke with the dealer - he states that the warranty does not cover the electronic components as there may have been a surge that resulted in damage that was out of his control. To his credit, he was responsive to my emails and spent a considerable amount of time with me on the phone trouble shooting the issue. He thinks it is the Gicar and heating element but I would like to run his logic by you all to see if it sounds correct.

Per the dealer, If I disconnect the water lever sensor wire, when on, the machine should fill until it is literally overfilling through the anti vac valve. When I disconnected the wire and turned the machine on, it filled for a very brief second then stopped even with the wire off. Does this indicate the Gicar is spent?

The reason I question this and wonder if it is only the element is that when turned on is there is 120V read across the pstat where the wires connect coming in from the gicar, 120 V going out to the element from the gicar, and 120V across the element (when turned on). When the wires are disconnected and the machine is unplugged and I touch the ends of the heating element studs, I get the reading I already noted above. Of note, I did take the machine off of the time as well as moved it to a different 20 amp outlet with the same result.

So I guess the question I have is, does it seem more likely that both the Gicar and heating element are out, or just one of the two. I guess I'm a bit confused about the readings I'm getting from the heating element.

Thanks for everyone's input!