sprint jinx wrote:My plan of attack has many facets:
I will blank off the second group with a disc of PFTE, to hold the pressure.

You could use a brass disk and drill/tsp it for a fitting and put a steam valve or water tap there.

A metal disc is what I was thinking, with the bolt pattern of the port to tighten it down. PFTE is cheaper(scrap)
But, without a dip tube, a valve there would only produce steam, and, well, I have on hand 2 functioning steam valves and wands to potentially hook up to the frame. I might see a use for a hot water dispenser for tea or oatmeal or to warm up cups, but I would have to fabricate a copper tube to reach into the boiler water.

Its time for an update...

As you can see, I have the machine assembled. I have spent a fair amount of time fitting everything to the custom frame. All of the work, from the copper piping to the temporary electrical system and boiler wrap, is custom, so the progress has been slow going.
Electrickery is not my forte, I have tripped the breakers alot. It now functioning as it should, on a 20 amp throw switch that is in a temporary state of just hanging out, just for the testing phase of the install. I'll tidy it all up later.

The first warm-up was silent and uneventful until 212f. Then, she leaked out of nearly every possible joint. I have cut those leaks down to 4 after a cool down and a tighten up. The boiler plate drips from 1 bolt head and I can't seem to tighten that any more. The BSPP and NPT fittings on the fill and drain tubes drip, mostly because they are mish mashed threads. I assume that the best answer is to purchase the correct bspp to npt adapters.

One question - on a leaking sight glass - there does not seem to be any other gaskets other than the one rubber bung in each end of the glass. Both ends of mine leak fairly badly, I have tried to tighten them up as tight as I can - there's not much to grab on the brass ends. What am I missing here? What are my options for using something else? I do not want to use an autofill.


The machine is a total beast. It smells like an old science experiment. I've had to shut it down quickly because of the hissing leaks, but I can't wait to fix them and make some shots.

I think there should be a washer or spacer between 4600 and 4700. Something to help compress the rubber seal when tightening 4600.

Hi, Larry
This image is a screen grab from the parts and diagram pages from Conti's own website. I would like to assume that they have the complete set of parts needed here. It shows that there are no washers between the pieces that you noted. If needed, I could put a metal disc or washer in there, but it would serve the same purpose of what is happening in there already.

Furthermore, upon inspection of the used donuts that I have in front of me, I can deduce a couple of things:
1 - that the rubber has hardened to the point where it has become rigid and useless. One is harder than the other, which might show the difference in the upper placement versus the lower which sits in hot water. Without flexibility, the gaskets fail to create the seal, and yes, I tightened the parts together as firmly as I could.
2 - That both gaskets have been deformed on only one side into a U shape. The U shape is perfectly matched to the 402661 part, at the outer face, where it mates up with the rubber and squishes it. This says to me that during previous use, there was no flat washer for it to land on, and that the rubber touches that face, and gets squeezed, firmly.
3 - the outer diameter of the gaskets seem fine, they are snugly and fully captured by the hollow pocket of part number 004600. The tolerance of the inner diameter is off slightly, as the sight glass (11mm) easily slides into each donut.

I have ordered 4 spare gaskets from an online parts supplier here in the usa, they say that the parts are in stock. I am awaiting shipment.

In the meantime, I have a backup plan. I used my cad skills to create a mold of the gaskets. Its a two part assembly that creates the exact measurement I took off of the current gaskets. I am using Sugru as my material, which is an air curing silicone putty. It remains flexible once cured, its has high heat resistance, and its very water resistant. I use my ABS 3D printer to make the parts, its very accurate and in an hour, I had the mold haves in hand. I will be molding it today.

I suppose that if I need a metal washer in the assembly, that I could either source something or make it myself.

Its been a long journey to this point, but worth it.

To end the story from the previous post - the molded sugru gaskets work great. I did receive my order from cafe parts for replacement gaskets for the sight glass tube, but the new ones are the wrong diameter. They just wont fit. I'm using mine as I am secure about their function.

I have solved all of the hissing leaks, in every joint possible, with either tightening or PFTE tape on the threads. The frame has been reinforced, but bending during pulling the lever probably cannot be avoided.

I am into my third day of actually making espresso from the machine. It produces wonderful shots. I am still tweaking things like the drip and drain trays, the portafilter handle and knobs for the steam and water. There is no end to the issues.

However, I will provide pictures and perhaps videos of the machine and use.