Converting Conti Empress from gas to 240v - Page 3

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Paul (original poster)

#21: Post by Paul (original poster) »

Cheers,

That makes it 1200w per each @110v. I was wondering how hefty an element I could use given that some of the filament is out of the water.

I have found my empress to be an easy project. I think you'll have a great time if this is your first resto.

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Latte Jed

#22: Post by Latte Jed »

After the weekend (I'm headed to Monument Valley for a John Wayne Festival) you might be able to talk me into taking the head off,
if it would give us a better idea what the elements are like. I was told I had a 110 v setup,
but who knows, they might be 220. Is there a way to test externally? Or could Conti tell me? The p-stat is 220.




Paul (original poster)

#23: Post by Paul (original poster) »

Just got back from the heating engineers with my boiler. I am putting in a custom made element through the endplate. The element will only heat from below the waterline as the legs are made from 'cold tube'. The bulk of the filament will be wound.

I have a excel calc for espresso elements. I think yours is 2400w @110v and draws ~22a (and should take 7.3 mins to heat!)

cheers
Paul

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bill
Supporter ♡

#24: Post by bill »

Hi Latte Jed,
I just returned from a trip and have been reading your post. The Empress looks great! The pressurestat looks like the SOPAC that was on my Prestina. I can confirm that tonight and let you know. It may be original.
Bill
LMWDP #43

I wasn't born in Texas, but got here as fast as I could!

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mogogear

#25: Post by mogogear »

Latte Jed wrote:After the weekend (I'm headed to Monument Valley for a John Wayne Festival) you might be able to talk me into taking the head off,
if it would give us a better idea what the elements are like. I was told I had a 110 v setup,
but who knows, they might be 220. Is there a way to test externally? Or could Conti tell me? The p-stat is 220.
Ok,
I just caught back up on this thread- So you are the one that got this girl!! That heat shield was hard to resist!! Congratulations!! You got her for a good price too. I was tempted, but prudence took over. Good luck!!
greg moore

Leverwright
LMWDP #067

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Latte Jed

#26: Post by Latte Jed »

I have a few more questions on my Conti restoration:

The two Conti Empresses that I've seen on this site have both been gas fired. Mine is electric.
Is there an example of an electric among our members?
My unit has no on/off scwitch, although there is a half inch hole on the upper right side panel (circled in blue).
What isthe purpose of the hole center (also circled in blue)? Is that something to do with the gas flame?
Has anyone had luck getting gaskets for the Conti Empress? Is there another machine with the same dimensions?
I've written to Edith at Conti and have yet to hear back, it may still be August Vacation time.
The piston appears to be 59 mm and the gasket grooves are 38mm.
I haven't used these lever-type valves before. There are three. Hot Water, Steam and, I assume, water fill. The valves appear
to be adjustable via knurled rings. The steam lever is beveled, perhaps so it lock in open position?
The boiler appears to have insulation, a crumbling gray sheet of matter. Asbestos? Should I remove and replace?
With What material?

Thanks for any help

happytamper

#27: Post by happytamper »

Hi

My Urania also has a hole in the same place at the bottom. I am pretty sure this is to light the gas when it is being used as a gas unit. Or to check if the flame is on. As for the other hole I do not know what it is for.
Mitchell
LMWDP #77

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bill
Supporter ♡

#28: Post by bill »

I think Edith may still be on holiday. The last email I sent her was reponded to by someone else. Sorry, but I don't know anything to help you with the Empress. It appears to be a different animal then my Prestina.
Bill
LMWDP #43

I wasn't born in Texas, but got here as fast as I could!

Paul (original poster)

#29: Post by Paul (original poster) »

Many of my machines were never fitted with on/off switches. My guess is that they were hard wired into the bar and the wall switch was used.

The hole is to check that the pilot light is on.

Edith couldn't supply me gaskets but thought she might be able to help with piston seals. I had 2x sets of gaskets made locally using the old asbestos ones as templates.

The knurled rings on my empress do not function as adjusters. They hold the valve assembly together.

I don't know if your insulation is asbestos. Wouldn't be surprised if it was. It it were me, I'd remove it and stuff the cavity with fibreglass insulation (just like the ones in your drywall). I do this with big machines and it works quite well.

I'll post some pics of my progress later today.

cheers
Paul

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Latte Jed

#30: Post by Latte Jed »

Thanks. The brotherhood responds!

I have a connection in a machine shop. With your and their best advice I may have the rubber turned or an aluminum die made
for casting rubber.
Since I only have one worn piston seal as an example, I wonder how much over the metal piston diameter should I go with the rubber?

By the way, Paul, did you come up with a standard size and thread for the screws for the outer sheetmetal? 4mm I think, but I'm
not sure of the thread. .70 doesn't go.