The Arrarex Caravel - Page 240

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cidadao
Posts: 41
Joined: 4 years ago

#2391: Post by cidadao »

A few questions regarding the rewiring project-

1) what gauge wire have those of you who put in a new cord used? A link to a product would be much appreciated. The cord I bought seems too thick to fit in the terminals, with it falling out even after I fully engage the screws. I imagine it's not wise to winnow the copper to the appropriate circumference, so the screw can secure it fully? Pardon my ignorance.

2) The old Italian wiring doesn't correspond to the color scheme of my new cord (which, given issue #1, I'll likely replace). However, I imagine black is hot, blue is neutral, and yellow is ground? See the attached pictures.

3) The old ground had a loop attached to the end. I imagine this is to keep it in place under the screw (which side? does it matter?). Would it be fine to manually thread the new ground around a screw, or should I endeavor to braid the new ground onto the old loop?


Thanks, again, for bearing with-trying not to electrocute myself in pursuit of the God shot.



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Jeff
Team HB
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#2392: Post by Jeff »

European color codes for 230 V "home" wiring (single-phase) are typically

Line (L) -- Brown or black
Neutral (N) -- Blue
Ground (PG or PE) -- green/yellow striped

US codes for single-phase are

Line -- Black
Neutral -- White
Ground -- Green

If rewiring and retaining a 230 V element, I personally would use a Schuko-style ("standard" European style with two pins plus ground on the top/bottom), especially if your transformer has a Schuko-style outlet. Matching that outlet with a ground, without an adapter, seems like a good plan.

On the ground, I'd suggest a good-quality crimp-on ring under the grounding screw.

As I recall, the Arrarex elements are nominally 550 W on 220 V. That's around 650 W on 240 V (2x US 120 V), a bit under 3 A.

The NEC doesn't go that low, but looking at https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm suggests that for 240 V wiring you might be able to get away with 20 ga, but I wouldn't go any smaller than 18 ga. I'd definitely make sure to get high-temperature insulation.

If you're wiring for 120 V, then you're pulling more like 6 A, and I wouldn't go any smaller than 18 ga and I'd use 16 ga if it fit the terminal blocks.

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armindillo
Posts: 141
Joined: 8 years ago

#2393: Post by armindillo »

The wire in your picture is quite hefty but it does not look excessively thick to me. You need to twist the strands so they don't all get spread apart under the screw.
You should back off the screws really far, certainly much farther than in your picture. As long as the wire fits into the hole, the screw will hold it once it's screwed down.

If you use that cord you might also need to get longer screws for the clamp that holds down the wire (and attaches the ground).
Also, once you're done, check the swinging thermostat lever just above the bracket that attaches the cord and make sure the lever is not impeded.
On my first Arrarex cord replacement that is a mistake I made.
LMWDP #667

gravy
Posts: 25
Joined: 7 years ago

#2394: Post by gravy »

I use this product for my Caravel internal rewiring projects.

https://core-electronics.com.au/high-te ... black.html

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redbone
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#2395: Post by redbone »

If you are looking for solid as opposed to stranded wire this wire would work. It's rated at 200C (392F) https://www.tevelec.com/products/view/m ... 6-csa-awm/

If you use stranded wire use a crimp-on solid pin terminal when inserting into screw clamps.
https://www.mcmaster.com/crimp-on-wire- ... terminals/

Here is a list and information on high temperature wire. https://www.tevelec.com/high-temperatur ... ical-wire/

Full disclosure, I work for the wholesale / distributor wire & cable company with links shown above. Information provided as reference as the company does not sell retail or small volumes.
Between order and chaos there is espresso.
Semper discens.


Rob
LMWDP #549

cidadao
Posts: 41
Joined: 4 years ago

#2396: Post by cidadao »

wow - thanks all for these valuable tips. Does anyone know of a Stateside purveyor of adequately rated Schuko style cords? Having trouble locating what I need - I saw some Schuko-style computer/electronics chords on Amazon, but without much information on their gauge/heat resistance. Thanks!

cidadao
Posts: 41
Joined: 4 years ago

#2397: Post by cidadao »

Mid February update (with some questions) - I decided to go ahead with a 110v element. This machine will get only occasional use. and I'd like to simplify the setup even if that means some trade offs with longevity. I successfully rewired the switch, though am waiting on wire crimps for the ground. I replaced the gaskets with the Brooks set, and (rather absurdly) tried to run the machine as a manual, Robot-style. Though the group/piston area don't leak when I pump water though the system, when I tried again with coffee, water sprayed out the area where the lever attaches to the piston-and no coffee was extracted. Is this a gasket problem? Is there something on the level of technique/the machine is not meant to be used in this way? Grateful for any tips.

gravy
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Joined: 7 years ago

#2398: Post by gravy »

Regarding the water coming out of the lever holes, I have had this sometimes. Usually I don't think it is leaky gaskets, I think it is when the lever is held up for too long and the water comes up through the small hole in the centre of the piston. Normally gravity will be enough for the weight of the lever to seal this hole. If you do a very long pause when you're lifting up the lever for a single, or for your Fellini pulls, water will start to get on the wrong side of the piston. It's possible the level gets in a position where it is stuck in this up position too, or a little bit of gunk is stopping the small hole from sealing properly under gravity. I hope that makes sense to you.

cidadao
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Joined: 4 years ago

#2399: Post by cidadao »

That is helpful, thanks. Could definitely be an issue of technique. I notice now the Brooks gasket kit came with a very small (few mm wide) white plastic gasket-where does this part go? I replaced the shower screen and piston gaskets already.

gravy
Posts: 25
Joined: 7 years ago

#2400: Post by gravy »

Unless you have the earliest model piston, there is a hole in the centre of the piston face. The small gasket fits behind the face, inside the piston. You have to take that piston apart to get the gasket in there (there is a wire clip inside the piston body you remove).

I recommend you _don't_ replace this gasket unless it is leaking. Rupturing of the this little gasket is the #1 cause of trouble in Caravels imho and sometimes an old gasket will be well bedded in and will cause less trouble that a new one. You could try taking the piston apart to inspect the gasket (mobile phone photo, blown up), without removing it, to see if it is ok.

If this gasket has died it could explain your flooding problems.

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