All brass La Pavoni Europiccola - new buy, should I keep it? - Page 2
Good point, before i do begin sanding i will investigate to see what metal it truly is.RobAnybody wrote:Do be careful with sanding, the boiler might be brass plating on a copper.
You can also look into glass coating (currently more applied to cars) although you probably have to get someone to do that.
Cheers!
Rob
It might be nice to remove the brass plate and bring back the true copper?? Just an idea
- homeburrero
- Team HB
+1RobAnybody wrote:Do be careful with sanding, the boiler might be brass plating on a copper.
Pavoni has been known to do some strange platings. The boiler body is made of copper, brazed together with brass parts at the top, bottom, and group fitting where there are threaded fittings. The ideal copper/brass europiccola boiler is just a simple polish and lacquer of the existing copper and brass parts of the boiler. But there were many early versions that were overplated with nickel/chrome and then plated over that with copper. (See this post for example pics). Others that have a brass colored boiler (primarily Romantica and PPG-16 models) were plated with nickel/chrome then overplated with thin decorative brass or gold. There are also some cases of brass portafilters that were chrome plated, then overplated with thin brass or gold. ("Brass and copper" La Pavoni levers)
Pat
nínádiishʼnahgo gohwééh náshdlį́į́h
nínádiishʼnahgo gohwééh náshdlį́į́h
I read those threads and many others. There is almost no way to tell what mix of plating they decided to use in that shop in '84
Im removing the boiler plate nut today and I will be attaching pics of detailed giveaways, maybe others will have a clue as to what this truly is?
Im removing the boiler plate nut today and I will be attaching pics of detailed giveaways, maybe others will have a clue as to what this truly is?
- homeburrero
- Team HB
I see evidence from an old parts list that they did make the 'gold' boiler europiccola at some point. Here's the boiler, part# 3410119 : https://www.theespressoshop.co.uk/en/La ... -4935.aspx
The finish description in the parts list on this one is "Dorata no camecia" which I suspect translates to unlaquered golden. It likely is a true gold plate - done thinly enough it would not be that expensive, and it would stay shiny without a lacquer cover. But so thin that it may be easy to polish away.
The finish description in the parts list on this one is "Dorata no camecia" which I suspect translates to unlaquered golden. It likely is a true gold plate - done thinly enough it would not be that expensive, and it would stay shiny without a lacquer cover. But so thin that it may be easy to polish away.
Pat
nínádiishʼnahgo gohwééh náshdlį́į́h
nínádiishʼnahgo gohwééh náshdlį́į́h
-
- Supporter ♡
You have acquired a beautiful machine! Those all brass La Pavoni's seem to be rare and I have one, too. You being a welder, you know what you are working with and if yours has a brass base or if it's just brass plated. If it's solid brass then you don't need to be as careful about damaging the surface. Mine has a brass base (not plated) and I used paint stripper to dissolve the lacquer from the entire outside of the machine. It turned out very well and I left it bare. I like the look of it as it tarnishes and I can easily polish it back when I want to make it shiny. I use Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish which does a good job and doesn't seem to remove any material in the polishing process. I think I read about this recommendation from the Orphan Espresso guy. I used a diamond grit hole saw to grind out the portafilter and make it 'naked'.
I highly recommend switching over to the silicone piston seals when you do replace the seals. I noticed a huge improvement in how smooth the lever moves once I made that inexpensive switch.
I recently did the conversion from steam heated to water heated. This sounds complicated but it was actually very easy if you follow the clear directions on this site. The end result is vastly improved temperature stability. My machine will now hold steady at 90 degrees (C), even after multiple shots. I would definitely recommend this conversion after you have used your machine for a while. Maybe don't do it immediately because then you won't appreciate the difference.
Enjoy your beautiful machine!
I highly recommend switching over to the silicone piston seals when you do replace the seals. I noticed a huge improvement in how smooth the lever moves once I made that inexpensive switch.
I recently did the conversion from steam heated to water heated. This sounds complicated but it was actually very easy if you follow the clear directions on this site. The end result is vastly improved temperature stability. My machine will now hold steady at 90 degrees (C), even after multiple shots. I would definitely recommend this conversion after you have used your machine for a while. Maybe don't do it immediately because then you won't appreciate the difference.
Enjoy your beautiful machine!
WOW Masonman, that is the look I am trying to go for. As far as I can tell mine is solid brass. I have included pictures. I think I will just completely strip this of lacquer and re assemble, If I do decide to clear-coat it later I will use Protecta-clear. It is a wipe-on extremely durable clear coat I use for patinated metal elements I make for clients. It resists up to 500-600 Fahrenheit and it cannot be scratched only with a sharp knife. This way if I want to preserve a natural patina or make it low maintenance I will just give it a wipe down when it is cooled off and call it good!
I cannot find threads for the steam heat to water heat conversion, any specific links?
I cannot find threads for the steam heat to water heat conversion, any specific links?
The steam to water conversion can be found here:
Heat control mod for 2nd Generation La Pavoni Levers
With the latest version here:
Heat control mod for 2nd Generation La Pavoni Levers
Cheers,
Rob
Heat control mod for 2nd Generation La Pavoni Levers
With the latest version here:
Heat control mod for 2nd Generation La Pavoni Levers
Cheers,
Rob
LMWDP #647
late update
I srtipped off all the lacquer. Took acetone, butane torch, citristrip and lots of scotch-brite. Now to reassemble when I can find the time!
I also left some of the elements to site in water mixed with brew rite (sodium carbonate) over ngiht and it turned the brass on the group a dark brown and smells like an old penny. I am simply scotch briting it off. It gives it a REAL nice look but I am wondering, did I do any damage to the brass with this?
I srtipped off all the lacquer. Took acetone, butane torch, citristrip and lots of scotch-brite. Now to reassemble when I can find the time!
I also left some of the elements to site in water mixed with brew rite (sodium carbonate) over ngiht and it turned the brass on the group a dark brown and smells like an old penny. I am simply scotch briting it off. It gives it a REAL nice look but I am wondering, did I do any damage to the brass with this?