'73 La Pavoni Europiccola: I'm stuck and have 3 questions!

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Snowbeard
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#1: Post by Snowbeard »

Greetings to all from Yellowknife, Canada. This is my first post although I've been reading a lot about Pavoni's and levers in general. Much thanks to all the trailblazers who have gone before! However, at this time, I'm kind of stuck and would greatly appreciate a little advice if possible. After redoing the wiring and seals/gaskets on my 1973, v.1.6 Europiccola, it's unfortunately now blowing our kitchen GFCI outlet. My wife is not impressed with my newfound handiness..Anyway, here's my questions:

1: My multimeter shows that my new wiring appears to be working fine (didn't mess up the crimps!). And, the 600 watt element shows 59.3 ohms and "1's" on the continuity and resistance settings (when testing terminal to base) so I believe it's good. The 200 watt element shows 21.3 ohms, which seems to be about right, I think. However, when testing terminal to base its showing "1's" on the "20" continuity setting, but increasing numbers on the "2000" setting. On the three resistance setting it's showing 3 on 20, 38 on 200 and 422 on 2000. Could this be the short that I'm looking for? I tried baking the element and cleaning and siliconing around the terminals already.

2: I can't seem to install the group gasket. Do I need to screw the brass sleeve in further (please see photo)? I just did "hand tight" but now I'm thinking maybe more turning is needed. I can't get the portafilter to fit once the round gasket, spacer and shower screen are put in. How does one get the portafilter to fit in? Do I need different gaskets perhaps?

3. Can you test the Minimo/Maximo switch with a multimeter and if so, how?

Thanks very much.



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baldheadracing
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#2: Post by baldheadracing »

Welcome to H-B!

For the elements, with the wiring removed, there should be no ohm reading (infinity) on the multimeter between any boiler base terminal and ground. Repeat the test with water in the boiler. Any ohm reading other than infinity means a problem. If you're lucky then only the 200w element is blown, and you can just rewire to ignore that element and run only on the 600w element.

For the group gasket, the shower screen goes on first. Then Francesco's gasket, then the o-ring.

Test the switch with the wires on one side removed. When "minimo," there should be no ohm reading (infinity) between the two poles; when "maximo," the reading should be zero ohms. (The 200w element is always on when the machine is plugged in; when the switch is "maximo" both 200w and 600w elements get power.)

Good luck!
-"Good quality brings happiness as you use it" - Nobuho Miya, Kamasada

Snowbeard (original poster)
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#3: Post by Snowbeard (original poster) »

Hello Craig.

Firstly, let me thank you very much for helping a fellow Canadian to get "over the hump". Your information was just what I needed at what was a bit of a difficult "crossroads" point for me in this process.

I'll let you know how it worked out.

1. Firstly, my gasket/spacer/shower screen was not fitting because, as I suspected, I had not fully screwed in the brass sleeve. I guess I was still thinking of my Millennium Europiccola where you can fairly easily just hand tighten the (replacement) brass sleeve. On this 1st Generation I had to get out the trusty old brass sleeve removal tool in order to get it properly retightened. Now the portafilter is fitting just fine.

2. The toggle switch appears to be working correctly, I think, in that the multimeter was showing continuity on only one side of the switch when it was in one position, and continuity on both sides of the switch in the other position. However, I didn't switch the wire over to the other screw to see if worked the same way, because I didn't think of doing that until later. Would this accomplish anything worthwhile, or have I already determined that it works with what I've done? (If you don't mind one more question)

3. Regarding the element, I'll tell you the story. The original 200 element was split, so I bought a new replacement (600 watt/200 watt). However, I had to reluctantly conclude that the new replacement 200 watt element was defective (which was not a comfortable feeling given my lack of experience in all this). Luckily, I was able to get a full reimbursement. I read about the baking solution and tried it. However, the multimeter tests I conducted, as outlined in my first communication here, seemed to show that the problem in the 200 watt element persisted. I tried to test it again today, with the boiler filled, as you suggested. And, it seems pretty clear that the 200 watt element is indeed defective, given that both terminals are showing lots of fluctuating numbers, when tested against the base, on both the resistance and the continuity scales of my multimeter.

My aim was to try to restore this 1st Generation as close to original as possible, so I wanted to go with the screw on 600 watt/200 watt base/elements. This approach just didn't work out for me, wasn't in the cards it seems. So, I'm now going to go with the alternative Stefano's 1000 watt/200 watt option including the extra brass flange. This change in plans costs a bit more. And, I'm going to have to re-do the crimps on my wires since the two types of bases/elements use different connectors. All in all, I'm chalking it up to a learning experience, and hopefully soon I'll have a nice 1st Generation Europiccola to play around with.

Anyway, thanks again Craig for your timely support, it was much appreciated.

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baldheadracing
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#4: Post by baldheadracing »

I believe Gabor - naked-portafilter.com - rebuilds these old bases/elements. He's in Europe, but the Euro:CAD exchange rate is pretty good right now :-).

The toggle switch sounds good to go. These old switches seem to work just fine as long as the wiring is screwed down tight. You just have to check the screws a couple times a year.

One thing to note with the new bases - the elements are stainless steel and so are much more durable than the old elements. However, they are a bit noisier - although you should have that crackling noise with your Millenium? My 1970 v1.6 has the new base/element and the sound difference during warm-up compared to my 1962 is noticeable. Mind you, once the valve in the 1962 starts blowing steam it is a lot noisier than the 1970, which has been converted to use a pressurestat.
-"Good quality brings happiness as you use it" - Nobuho Miya, Kamasada

Snowbeard (original poster)
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#5: Post by Snowbeard (original poster) »

Gabor no longer rebuilds the old bases/elements. The process no longer involves you sending your old base for new elements to be fitted in. Instead, Gabor sends to you a new base with the two elements already installed. The cost is 115 Euro plus shipping to Canada of 27 Euro. How you would get new elements installed on your old base I would like to know, just to have a spare base/element set. If anyone ever finds a source, please let us know.

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baldheadracing
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#6: Post by baldheadracing replying to Snowbeard »

One thing about this place, everything has probably already been tried: La Pavoni early heating elements - a lesson on volume
-"Good quality brings happiness as you use it" - Nobuho Miya, Kamasada

Snowbeard (original poster)
Posts: 13
Joined: 2 years ago

#7: Post by Snowbeard (original poster) »

Yup, I had already read that thread. Must me nice to have the tools and to be that handy! Thanks for the tip.