1980 La Pavoni Europiccola - Where to start? - Page 3

A haven dedicated to manual espresso machine aficionados.
Jetpac (original poster)

#21: Post by Jetpac (original poster) »

drgary wrote:Stefan, that's a great find and people gave you wonderful tips! Measuring the temperature of the group head is essential on these machines for controlling shots. I would be sure to at least add a temperature strip. The other thing you can look into for these early Europiccolas with cast bases is a 3-D printed drip tray. The drip tray will protect the paint in the base, prevent rusting and fit better than getting the current version of drip tray which is also worth it if you don't want to go through the hassle of 3-D printing. You can search the site for a reference to that 3-D printed drip tray.

Added: If you want to refresh the rubber base, Francesco posts a method of using a bit of auto trim and rubber sheet to replace it. Francesco's site hasn't been upgraded to https, so it shows up as "not secure," but I navigate to it often without problems. I wonder if there's a soft rubber compound or glue that can help preserve the base but haven't tried that project.
I happen to have a 3d printer so gave the one I found here on the site a go,, but it appears it is for the V1, it is a bit too tall and not quite wide enough for the V2, im assuming this is because they changed from cast to stamped metal bases? (and unfortunately, I'm not good enough on the ol' 3d design yet to tinker with that I don't think!)

Is there one for the V2 ive missed?

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drgary
Team HB

#22: Post by drgary »

I incorrectly thought you had a cast metal base. For stamped metal the current version of plastic drip tray insert would work well.
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

Jetpac (original poster)

#23: Post by Jetpac (original poster) »

I gave it a go at reducing the size and managed to get the height sorted!.. its not a glove like fit, but fits under the plate and is pretty good i think!

New seals for the group arrive tomorrow so replacement day ahead!

Jetpac (original poster)

#24: Post by Jetpac (original poster) »

So i thought i would do an update!

- Replaced the gaskets
- Powdercoated the base
- Repainted the original badge
- Rewired the machine
- Gave the parts a good cleaning and polishing
- 3d printed a drip tray
- Cleaned and reapplied the original metal information sticker

I think it came out looking pretty nice all in all!

Next steps:

- making a single hole milk nozzle
- turning some olivewood handles

Thank you everyone for your help on my journey so far!


kalo925

#25: Post by kalo925 »

Nice work! Why did you leave the steam valve sloped? The black handles look great to me! :)

Jonk

#26: Post by Jonk »

About the steam nozzle, the best hole size will vary depending on how you use the machine. If you want to take advantage of the dual switch and crank up the heat before steaming - Ø 1,5mm will work great in my experience. Otherwise you'll really want something narrower. Keep in mind that brass is a lot easier to drill than stainless steel.

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SteveRhinehart

#27: Post by SteveRhinehart »

I noticed that the drain tube near your mushroom valve (small tube next to the steam wand) is placed a little awkwardly. Might want to carefully bend it toward the drip tray so excess moisture can fall there. When I start up my machine, I often have it in high mode so there's a bunch of condensate that will drain off at first.

Also, thought I'd share my workflow video from a few years back. I haven't changed much from this, except that I use a different WDT tool now that uses 0.4mm 3D printer cleaning needles (or acupuncture needles if you prefer) and swapped to an MCaL basket so I can dose a little more. I'd like to also add a BPlus top screen as I've read some other EP users have had good results in particular because it seems to help calm the spray of water from the shower screen.

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Jetpac (original poster)

#28: Post by Jetpac (original poster) »

kalo925 wrote:Nice work! Why did you leave the steam valve sloped? The black handles look great to me! :)
To be honest with the steam valve, I didn't think about straightening it! I was focus on not screwing the other stuff up! i didn't even look into how to loosen it to give it a twist... can it be done through the boiler cap or does the group need to come off?

Jonk wrote:About the steam nozzle, the best hole size will vary depending on how you use the machine. If you want to take advantage of the dual switch and crank up the heat before steaming - Ø 1,5mm will work great in my experience. Otherwise you'll really want something narrower. Keep in mind that brass is a lot easier to drill than stainless steel.
Thanks for that, that's really useful! I haven't much experience with it yet with regards to milk but i was easily able to get a dome nut and have access to a decent drill press at school so was able to dip in and find a 1.5mm bit after the kids had left and do it easily in stainless! Little bit of PTFE tape and its on like a beaut.. did a quick test of the steam coming out and it seems a bit better!
SteveRhinehart wrote:I noticed that the drain tube near your mushroom valve (small tube next to the steam wand) is placed a little awkwardly. Might want to carefully bend it toward the drip tray so excess moisture can fall there. When I start up my machine, I often have it in high mode so there's a bunch of condensate that will drain off at first.

Also, thought I'd share my workflow video from a few years back. I haven't changed much from this, except that I use a different WDT tool now that uses 0.4mm 3D printer cleaning needles (or acupuncture needles if you prefer) and swapped to an MCaL basket so I can dose a little more. I'd like to also add a BPlus top screen as I've read some other EP users have had good results in particular because it seems to help calm the spray of water from the shower screen. video
I do get that dripping, that is a good idea, how easy is taking that part off so I can twist it rather than giving it a bend?
Also, that video will be really useful! so thanks so much for that!

is your wdt tool 3d printed as well as just using the needles? if so which one are you Using? and finally, I don't suppose you have a link to the basket? I've got a double basket that came with it but have no idea if it's original Pavoni (I'm assuming it is) and would like a slightly larger basket (that still fits in the original portafilter.

I did start using an Aeropress metal filter that I cut down as a puck screen as I noticed that the puck was damaged when I knocked it out before I did the rebuild... I really have no idea if it makes a difference yet though due to my inexperience!

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SteveRhinehart

#29: Post by SteveRhinehart »

I believe I bought my Elektra basket from Stefano's: https://www.espressocare.com/products/i ... ble-basket

The WDT tool I use now is one I bought from a user on the Espresso Aficionados server on Discord. It's available on Thingiverse here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4819617

As for the tube, it looks like you'll have to loosen the upper valve housing to turn the cup. Orphan Espresso says it's a 16 mm wrench in this video (at 6:30): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_k-08sVlPw

opother
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#30: Post by opother »

That tool reminds me of a matcha wisk