1980 La Pavoni Europiccola - Where to start? - Page 2

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RobAnybody

#11: Post by RobAnybody »

Jetpac wrote:I dont think there is one on this machine (a missing place that i can see!) Is that an addon/modification that needs to be made or just a part that needs to be bought?
It wasn't standard on this particular version. The main issue is that this heating element runs warmer than the new versions so you need a thermalfuse with a cut-off above 127°C. something like this https://www.espressocare.com/products/i ... thermofuse wich should be covered with this sleeve https://www.espressocare.com/products/i ... ion-sleeve.
This goes in line with the connection from the powercord to the heating element. The fuse body should be clamped against the heating element to work properly. You can use the copper bridge between the low and high terminal to clamp it down. see also here:La Pavoni Europiccola Pre Millenium 2nd gen renewal project
cheers!
Rob
LMWDP #647

Jetpac (original poster)

#12: Post by Jetpac (original poster) » replying to RobAnybody »

Ace, thanks for that, i will look into that one!

Im now doing come clean up (you might see the nice shiny cap in the background!) And am looking at disassembling the steam valve... Should it be level? Or is this correct?


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Jonk

#13: Post by Jonk »

It's usually level, but doesn't matter per se.

If the machine is used as intended, for 1-2 quick shots and then turned off, there's no need for any fuse.

Not trying to discourage anyone from rebuilding, but yes for the 4 Europiccolas I've worked on I thought it was enough to just fix what was broken.

Living in the UK you've got access to very affordable spares at https://www.theespressoshop.co.uk with low shipping.
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LObin

#14: Post by LObin »

Jetpac wrote:Thanks for this!

I'm planning on attempting a complete breakdown and rebuild i think!

Do you have any idea what the flat screen would be(also in the extra pictures) It looks like the bottom of an odd portafilter!
I don't recall seeing that flat screen before. If it sits on top of the portafilter, then it can't be used as a puck screen.

I will reiterate what I wrote before: A puck screen is a must for this exact model. Tamping quite hard has helped but a puck screen solves the pin holes issue.

I use an Aeropress SS mesh filters cut to size while others use reg Aeropress paper filters. Coffee-Sensor and Bplus make a 49.5mm puck screens as well.

The horizontal play in the lever should be from the fork and lever shaft assembly. If there's movement between the lever arm and fork, you need to work on the rivet to fix this. Francesco Ceccarelli and Orphan Espresso show how to do this. Lever arm and fork can also be changed if ever.

Other than theespressoshop, https://www.bluestarcoffee.eu/
and https://coffee-sensor.com/ are great resources.

Cheers!
LMWDP #592

scrane

#15: Post by scrane »

The thermal fuse or breaker is put in line with a power lead and fastened to the heater plate. It is there so the power will be cut off if the boiler runs dry. In this situation the heating element will go into melt down without it. You'll have to buy either the temp fuse or the resettable breaker.

Jetpac (original poster)

#16: Post by Jetpac (original poster) »

descaled the boiler and steam nozzle plus gave the boiler cap threads a good cleaning.... And it appears to seal up now?

Had a go at pulling a shot and it wasn't fantastic..but i suppose that is to be expected! I struggles with the plastic tamp that came with the machine so i have bought a 49mm stainless one. Could only hold about 12g in the basket (i also dont know if i maybe overfilled it but it was a little tricky to lock the portafilter in)

I also found out here that the basket has pretty much zero retention in the portafilter so falls out when i try and knock it out, is that normal?

Not super important but also gave it a polish up and whilst there is some damage to the chrome i cant shift... I'm pretty happy with how it came up!

Before



After


LObin

#17: Post by LObin »

You can add a portafilter clip if you want the basket to hold.

As I stated previously, the stock 49mm basket isn't tall enough. Pretty much useless imo. The Elektra Mcal basket is much better. There's also an 49mm IMS triple basket and the Strietman's.

It's not a big deal but the perfect tamper size for an Europiccola pre-millenium is 49.5mm. But, anything works better than the cheap plastic one.

She looks really good btw!
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Jetpac (original poster)

#18: Post by Jetpac (original poster) » replying to LObin »


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drgary
Team HB

#19: Post by drgary »

Stefan, that's a great find and people gave you wonderful tips! Measuring the temperature of the group head is essential on these machines for controlling shots. I would be sure to at least add a temperature strip. The other thing you can look into for these early Europiccolas with cast bases is a 3-D printed drip tray. The drip tray will protect the paint in the base, prevent rusting and fit better than getting the current version of drip tray which is also worth it if you don't want to go through the hassle of 3-D printing. You can search the site for a reference to that 3-D printed drip tray.

Added: If you want to refresh the rubber base, Francesco posts a method of using a bit of auto trim and rubber sheet to replace it. Francesco's site hasn't been upgraded to https, so it shows up as "not secure," but I navigate to it often without problems. I wonder if there's a soft rubber compound or glue that can help preserve the base but haven't tried that project.
Gary
LMWDP#308

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LObin

#20: Post by LObin »

The dimensions seem to be exact, yes. May not be the original Elektra but should take 14-16g doses no problem.

drgary is absolutely right about monitoring group temperature!
LMWDP #592