1961 La Pavoni Europiccola History and Servicing - Page 3

A haven dedicated to manual espresso machine aficionados.
danaleighton
Posts: 138
Joined: 14 years ago

#21: Post by danaleighton »

Re: rewiring: You might have a look at the rewiring from my Caferina. I used 3-conductor cord and grounded it to the base. I used crimp connectors (gasp!) but hope they will hold out. I also added the thermal fuse used in the newer Pavonis. Here's the picture:
Dana Leighton
LMWDP #269

User avatar
drgary (original poster)
Team HB
Posts: 14345
Joined: 14 years ago

#22: Post by drgary (original poster) »

I was able to unscrew the group by putting in a longer stick with the cylinder tool in the lower part of the group. The dipper tube swiveled as I unscrewed the group and it easily came out attached to the group, just like it does on later model machines. I was also able to pick out the stuck retainer clip. It dissolved more with the Evaporust and I got a new set of picks that quickly fragmented it to pieces and removed it. Good progress today. Photos will follow tomorrow.
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

User avatar
pootoogoo
Posts: 326
Joined: 11 years ago

#23: Post by pootoogoo »

Alright... I had the impression this tube was somehow screwed into the group. :oops:
Is it just pushed into the group then, with no insert ? (it seems that there are no insert on older models contrary to newer ones > part #3).

OldNuc
Posts: 2973
Joined: 10 years ago

#24: Post by OldNuc »

It screws in but is not tight or leak tight.

User avatar
drgary (original poster)
Team HB
Posts: 14345
Joined: 14 years ago

#25: Post by drgary (original poster) »

pootoogoo wrote:Alright... I had the impression this tube was somehow screwed into the group. :oops:
Is it just pushed into the group then, with no insert ? (it seems that there are no insert on older models contrary to newer ones > part #3).
Sebastien,

The "older drawing" you have linked to is for the second generation of La Pavoni, what is commonly called "pre-Millennium." But there are actually three generations of La Pavoni Europiccola. Pre-Millennium is the second generation. The machine I am restoring is the very first generation with an earlier group with a brass inner sleeve (already removed in the photo below). There is no sightglass or drip tray. A reference for these is on the site of Francesco Ceccarelli.

http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu/lapavoni_ep_eng.htm

My machine is version 1.0 or maybe a prototype of that because it does not even have a serial number. Here, I have some photos for you taken this afternoon. When you remove the group the dipper tube comes out with it, but it can turn on its threads.



It threads into the back of the group as you can see below.

Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

User avatar
drgary (original poster)
Team HB
Posts: 14345
Joined: 14 years ago

#26: Post by drgary (original poster) »

Here is how the rest of the teardown went today. I used Evapo-rust to further dissolve the degraded snap ring that was stuck in its groove. This is good stuff, water soluble, non-toxic, not acid or alkaline. $9 at the local auto supply store.



At the same auto supply store I got a more robust and articulated set of picking tools. One had just the right squiggle on the end to break the snap ring. Once it was fragmented I could dig it out and get at the retaining ring underneath so I can finish cleaning the group and inserting new gaskets.



I also removed the OPV to inspect it and clean any scale. The spring inside is still robust. There wasn't much scale. It was hard to get off of the boiler and I needed to use a mallet on the wrench because it was held on there with thread locker.



Dealing with the steam valve posed an unexpected complication but not one that I haven't addressed before.

The first issue was minor. A baked gasket made it very hard to turn out the valve shaft. Rather than force it and risk breaking the knob, I applied a small torch and finished cooking it.



Francesco Ceccarelli notes on his site that these early models have a hex screw holding the knob onto the steam valve shaft. Not this one. It's an Elebak brand with some part numbers on it.





Is it supposed to unscrew from where it's embedded in the Bakelite? I don't know and don't want to force it.



If necessary I'll heat the steam valve rubber gasket in boiling water and stretch it into place. I've done it before on a later model where the clip seemed to be stuck in the knob.

Some notes for Rich (Oldnuc). The power cord has a ground wire that was clipped and never attached from what I can tell. The outer covering is rubber with no cloth layer inside. Also before removing wires I drew their configuration (hot and neutral are changed per Rich's good catch). I've indicated where in the circuit I'm thinking of adding a thermal switch to the bottom of the boiler as a reversible upgrade. I'll feel better running this machine with that on it, especially since there is no sightglass.



The bottom of the piston has some machining marks that make it almost like an art piece.



And here's another look at the tiny 1 engraved on the group along with the only area where I've seen the chrome worn off to expose the brass underneath.



Next I'll be cleaning these parts for reassembly.
Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

OldNuc
Posts: 2973
Joined: 10 years ago

#27: Post by OldNuc »

Is the plug molded to the wire on the other end or is it removable? Finding 3 wires, white, black, and green in the actual cord is interesting as that would be a common replacement cord set for power tools from the late 50s - early 60s. The hot-neutral-ground receptacle was not common in the older homes yet and finding a 3 wire cord set with the ground wire clipped was not unusual. The cord may add a great deal of credence to the theory of this being a true pilot model converted from 220Vac to 110Vac.


Those holes in the top and bottom of the piston are to allow system pressure to energize the seals. This tends to markedly lengthen the service life of this type of seal.

User avatar
pootoogoo
Posts: 326
Joined: 11 years ago

#28: Post by pootoogoo »

Thanks Rich and Gary.
I know that the link I gave is not exactly the same as your model (or my firend's model, with screwed group / brass sleeve) and god knows that Francesco's site is also my bible. :wink: It's just that I didn't find any diagram for v.1 and guessed that this pipe was fixed the same way as on early v.2 (at least not fixed on a plastic piece).
If I figure it correctly this water pipe is screwed onto the group and arrive just behind the brass sleeve (that has two holes away from this input to fill the piston chamber). So, since both turn counterclockwise when you unscrew the group it is also unscrewing the tube (but not completely). I was wondering if there was anything to service there but it doesn't seem so.
Last question: the other hole arriving from the upper part of the group is a pressure output, right ? Where is the other end of this channel, is there a hole at the back of the group close to the water pipe thread ?
Sorry Doctor, Obsessive Compulsive Curiosity...

OldNuc
Posts: 2973
Joined: 10 years ago

#29: Post by OldNuc »

There is no pressure differential in the area above the piston and the sleeve. It is the temperature differential that allows the vapor to condense to a liquid. due to the mass difference between the head of vapor and liquid there should be some circulation down through the area between the sleeve and group wall. Boiler level will have an affect on the magnitude of this head difference.

User avatar
grog
Posts: 1807
Joined: 12 years ago

#30: Post by grog »

Where does one source the old-style thermal safety fuse? I know OE used to sell them, but no longer.
LMWDP #514