1957 Urania 2nd gen refurb - Page 2

A haven dedicated to manual espresso machine aficionados.
User avatar
Paul_Pratt

#11: Post by Paul_Pratt »

Marcelnl wrote:Paul, great that you chime in, I was also wondering about the differences I did not spot initially.
Do you also happen to know if all/most Urania's came with the lever for fill/hot water?
Mine has a wheel knobwhich is pretty tight at times, and I was thinking to swap it for the lever if I can get my hands on one (might be as difficult as finding that brown portafilter handle for a Faemina)

The spring may not be as difficult as it may seem, but there are a few sizes so measure it up first.
I bought one (spare) from TSE in Austria, Feder Zodiaco gruppe.
I would guess the lever is standard but then are broken or lost and end up being replaced with the knobs. For the small group spring I have always used the CMA lever springs. They are a decent fit. Otherwise I use the same spring as on a Marte/Mercurio.

User avatar
espressotime

#12: Post by espressotime »

The cma measures 141 mm and has an outer diam. of 46 mm
The stock one is 44 and 137 mm in length.Although it maybe has shortened a bit over the years

mingiunate (original poster)

#13: Post by mingiunate (original poster) »

This post is about the group - which I think is somewhat unique with this machine.

This machine has the 1st gen thermosiphon. One thing I didn't realise about these groups in the research I'd done was that they have a piston/plunger rocker mechanism for preinfusion, and would therefore only come with one gasket on the piston. When I finally got the machine, the preinfusion mechanism looked to be missing.



I was worried that this would be nearly impossible to replace, but in chatting with Ryan, and after some disassembly, it looks like there had been a workaround! The top of the preinfusion mechanism had been sealed shut, and the piston was replaced with a 2 gasket version. Has anyone seen this workaround implemented as factory standard?





The top of the fork rest also seems to have snapped off. But I dont think thats a major issue



The spring on this machine has the same Faema stamping that was on Ryan's Mercurio. The FAEMA is clearly visible, but the date is a bit worn. I've tried my best to make out the date and I'm pretty sure it is "12 57" like the mano, but I also know I'm biased and my brain could be filling in the blank with what it wants to see. The base of the spring looks pretty badly rusted, any suggestions on what to do to clean up that situation?




My understanding is the Cimbali spring will work on this one, as this is the shortest of the group versions. https://www.tse.at/us/shop/product_info ... ruppe.html

I'm preparing to begin disassembling the entire group and piston, more to come.

mingiunate (original poster)

#14: Post by mingiunate (original poster) »

Paul_Pratt wrote:That is a really nice and original machine. Your patience and due diligence has paid off. The front panels were made from steel, as you can see mine was in terrible shape.

Mine has the larger boiler, same group. Parts are simple, but IIRC the 9 hole boiler end plate is unusual. I have a few Lambro's with that. The brown bakelite is also unusual on a later Urania like this.
Wow - I will stop complaining about my rust! :)
What was the approach you took to clean that up?

User avatar
Paul_Pratt

#15: Post by Paul_Pratt »

espressotime wrote:The cma measures 141 mm and has an outer diam. of 46 mm
The stock one is 44 and 137 mm in length.Although it maybe has shortened a bit over the years
46mm OD on the spring is a standard size on most lever machines incl. the Faemas and Gaggias. The piston has an OD of 49mm. On the Faema 2nd series pistons they rely on the ID of the spring to centre it and stop it moving around.

User avatar
espressotime

#16: Post by espressotime »

Sorry.You are right.
It measures 46 od.32 id.Thickness thread is 6 mm .

mingiunate (original poster)

#17: Post by mingiunate (original poster) »

Finally got the jig together to get the rest of the group disassembled. This should look pretty familiar (Faema Mercurio 3rd Series Tall Group [Finished])




With some compression, the fork lifted off the group and I was able to get a bearing separator in there. It didnt take much to get it apart after that. With the bearings and washers out of the way the pin slid out and it was done. I was finally able to get a good look at the damage on the spring. Not great. Does anyone think this is salvageable?



I do have a replacement on order from TSE, but it would be great if I can salvage the original. There was a bit of rusted spring stuck to the piston base, which needed to be scraped off, and the gaskets were cut out, I'm pretty sure the top one was upside down, likely leading to the rusted spring. This is ready to be cleaned. Does the base of the piston come off the shaft (and how) or is there no need?



User avatar
IamOiman
Team HB

#18: Post by IamOiman »

the piston can come off into two pieces technically, but there is a metal clip inside that is difficult to remove once inserted, ie you will likely damage the piston pieces in the process of taking it apart. The piston rod does unscrew but it can get stuck sometimes. You can try heating it a bit to see what happens. I never managed to unscrew my piston rod on my Mercurio and just disassembled it from the top/lever fork.
-Ryan
Using a spice grinder violates the Geneva Convention
LMWDP #612

sloegin

#19: Post by sloegin »

You can clean up the rust on the spring by soaking it in a warm 50/50 mix of citric acid and vinegar. Then wash with soapy water, and dry.

mingiunate (original poster)

#20: Post by mingiunate (original poster) »

IamOiman wrote:the piston can come off into two pieces technically, but there is a metal clip inside that is difficult to remove once inserted, ie you will likely damage the piston pieces in the process of taking it apart. The piston rod does unscrew but it can get stuck sometimes. You can try heating it a bit to see what happens. I never managed to unscrew my piston rod on my Mercurio and just disassembled it from the top/lever fork.
The piston shaft was separated from the piston with the help of a vise and c-spanner. A fair amount of rust was shaken out, but it seems to spin much more smoothly now. I wont attempt to disassemble any further, just clean it up.