1953 Gaggia Classica 1 Group - Page 2

A haven dedicated to manual espresso machine aficionados.
User avatar
IamOiman (original poster)
Team HB

#11: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

I did the same treatment/cleanup with the bakelite handles as I did with the Internazionale. However the lever handle is not bakelite, rather it is an actual plastic material. Therefore I did not polish it and instead just cleaned off most the grime by hand.



I got my first parts order in, from Paul/Cafelat. For the Classica I got a 1500W 110V heating element + the boiler gasket. They fit nicely! For the studs I will use 45mm stainless A2/304 headless studs with the allen key driver (the ones pictured are a mix of 50mm studs and a 40mm stud while I was checking the gasket alignment). The nuts are extra wide brass M8 nuts that I sourced from a UK auto supply store of all places. They are 50% wider than the regular ones I ordered prior and should withstand more torque. The two extra holes in the lid I intend to try and install a p-stat pipe and a vacuum valve as I want to use the wobbler weight, which is the only boiler fitting not counting the four valves and group flange.



-Ryan
Using a spice grinder violates the Geneva Convention
LMWDP #612

Espresso Forge: brew truly incredible espresso at home
Sponsored by Espresso Forge
User avatar
IamOiman (original poster)
Team HB

#12: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

I was hoping to avoid this issue but I gathered up the courage to actually check to see if there was a bend in the frame. Unfortunately there was. The rusted away screw is not aligned with its frame hole. Taking an edge you can see the gap on the right support of the frame compared to the intact left support! In fact it also appears the boiler-frame piece is slightly bent as well! I can push the boiler part towards the frame a little but one of the two definitely need to be adjusted. This issue appeared to have been present before shipment since it probably occured near when the rusted stud detached itself from the frame. Depending on how serious the damage is it may require sacrificing the old frame paint if heat will need to be involved.

Good thing I am heading up to my metal guy to pick up the Internazionale boiler! He'll help me out with this issue.



-Ryan
Using a spice grinder violates the Geneva Convention
LMWDP #612

User avatar
IamOiman (original poster)
Team HB

#13: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

Frame got bent back. Before bending it back, two cracks were identified in the frame that were also fixed with welding after the frame was straightened. In the process, I discovered the paint was not actually competely the cause of the brown color, but rather some of brown hue was from the original rusty frame underneath it, essentially the frame got surface rust and was painted over. I was hoping to keep the frame original but the discovery of the rust and the welds that already took off a portion of this paint and leaving exposed and unprotected metal resulted in me deciding to redo the frame coating. One of the original screws and a missing screw were replaced with modern stainless steel ones (the ones with the hex heads). Specifically the replacement ones I used are 90 degree countersink M8 screws and are just about the exact same size as the old ones on the head.



With the frame back I just had to check if the panels fit correctly. In fact they do :D . For this machine, the issues I am left with are ensuring I obtain the correct sized gaskets for the valves, and to figure out how I will fit a p-stat and vacuum valve without replacing the original wobbler weight. I purchased some fittings for the lid but the threads are not long enough to catch a proper thread with a seal/gasket.

Oh also I pray the piston to rack connection holds up, that is my next biggest concern. Boiler leaks are also hopefully not a thing.




-Ryan
Using a spice grinder violates the Geneva Convention
LMWDP #612