Hook a real live motor contactor with a 115v 25a contact rating to the little appliance module, problem solved.

I have incinerated many of the X-10 20A appliance modules with loads that were considerably lower than 20A peak. I assume the latest iteration will perform just as well.

Bak Ta Lo wrote:The Z-wave tech specs say max wattage is 600 watts (or is there a heavy duty version?). My L1-P needs 2700 watts.

I've been looking for the same. The only heavy duty timers I can find that can handle 220-240v 3000 watt loads are the Intermac ones made for air conditioners, but they only have the models with the on board 24 hour timer. Cannot find any heavy duty versions with WiFi control, those all seem to be rated much lower wattage.

I can comment on the Intermatic 20amp 24hr timers, I've had mine for a couple of years and haven't had any issues with it, its been rock solid. WiFi would be nice, but I also haven't been able to find a timer to safely handle the amperage and wattage requirements for my Pro 700. I set my timer for Monday to Friday and then leave my machine on for the rest of the weekend.

Fluffeepuff wrote:Something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enerwave-Z-Wave ... 2495604751

Just did a quick google - don't got much time to search more right now!

Yes. Mine is the smart enabled one that reports energy use. The data is viewable via the SmartThings hub. I bought mine on Amazon. It is indeed rated for a 20A resistive load.

sluflyer06 wrote:Wemo can do 1800 watts, no problem. I used it for over a year on my Vetrano 2B in 20amp mode. Specifically the Wemo Insight Switch

The V2B pulls 1900 watts during warm up for several minutes. I know this because I can see the wattage mine is pulling via the 20A z-wave smart outlet I'm controlling it with. Using a 15A Wemo in the application you describe is incredibly reckless. What are your plans in the event your homeowners insurance denies your claim after this thing catches fire?

For starters your only talking about surpassing the rated spec by 5.5% which is probably fine. Anyways, I don't have the V2B anymore, I sold it to a friend when I got my LM.

Was it set to 20? maybe it was 15? I guess we'd never know.

Maybe it's fine and maybe it's not. What is not debatable is that you are exceeding the rated capacity of an electrical device. I'm not going to give my insurance company a free pass at denying a claim when there are options out there that will safely perform the same task.

In regards to a sly attempt at denying that you were overloading an outlet ("Was it set to 20? maybe it was 15? I guess we'd never know"), some of us value ethics. Some apparently don't.

Shife wrote:Yes. Mine is the smart enabled one that reports energy use. The data is viewable via the SmartThings hub. I bought mine on Amazon. It is indeed rated for a 20A resistive load.

Thanks for the feedback - I think right now this is the best solution for me. Not sure how I'd pair it with my home security system (which is my z-wave hub) since the kitchen outlet is nowhere near the alarm panel. I might have to hook it up in another j-box nearby and then move it.

I'm not sure what kind of safety factors are built into electrical equipment and parts. I thought the ratings were peak values, but I've seen some electrical equipment that has had specs referencing sustained load values. Probably because the parts were doing different things. Either way I'd never chance it... I don't want to turn on my espresso machine from my phone on the drive home just to arrive 20 minutes later and find a blown out socket and machine!

Looks like Enerwave no longer makes 20amp outlets. Anyone know why?

I'm currently using the mechanical Intermatic timer plugged into a 20amp outlet with built-in surge protection, but would really like more flexible timer control.

In The USA home wiring is generally 14 or 12 gauge 2 wire +ground, L1, N, bare ground. In the wall those are 15 or 20 amp conductors. The actual receptacle is in most cases rated for 15A and only on rare occasions where the #12 wire was installed will the receptacle be rated for 20A. You have to pull it all out of the wall to see what you have. Breakers are supposed to be sized to protect that wire thus 15A or 20A.

Most of these timer switches/relays are rated for a 100% pure resistive load and that heating element presents enough of an inductive load component to result in contact burning and early failure if the load is close to rated.

The majority of the consumer devices will be 20A or less as a consequence of the nominal home wiring conventions. If you want to control a higher current load you will need industrial rated components.

You can take a lower rated wireless controlled timer and use its output to control a higher rated contactor so nothing is being overloaded.

Shife wrote:Maybe it's fine and maybe it's not. What is not debatable is that you are exceeding the rated capacity of an electrical device. I'm not going to give my insurance company a free pass at denying a claim when there are options out there that will safely perform the same task.

In regards to a sly attempt at denying that you were overloading an outlet ("Was it set to 20? maybe it was 15? I guess we'd never know"), some of us value ethics. Some apparently don't.

Some of us value humor as well.