Riliu123 wrote:@Craig and @Randy,

Thanks for the recommendation. Once I pick up the unit, I will definitely do a deep clean and roast few batches first before considering what's next.

If I understand correctly from googling last few days, the main features on the latest 2k+ vs mine is monitoring temp and driving the unit via laptop using tool like artisan. The first one is covered with the phidget and thermocouple mod. For the second one, I need a HTC board to interface between hottop and laptop as well as a TC4 for thermoocouple to laptop. So does this mean the phidget acts as the TC4 and all I need is a HTC board? If so, where do I about ordering it? All the links I found are dead.

The Phidget - I am assuming that it is a Phidget 1048 - has up to four temperature sensors (usually a Type K thermocouple) as input, and converts them into temperatures that you can see on a computer via USB. There's a bit of setup of drivers, software, etc., but the Artisan online documentation has all the steps.

The HTRI replaces the Phidget and also ties into the roaster. It has two boards, one for each function, and was designed and made by Jim Galt. He no longer makes the HTRI. A TC4+ board is now available from a third party, but you'd have to design something to replace the HTC part - the interface between it and the Hottop's main board - yourself.

Get it and use it until the control panel fails. That is the weakest point in the roaster.

At that time you can upgrade to the latest (2k+). This is a decent model.

I bought an old B model and went through all the mods. Worked great for 4 years until the panel completely failed so I tore it down and rebuilt again with the b2k+ update.

I will have to say I liked my mods more than the factory model as I did a remote TC4C+LCD rather than internal.

I concur with the get it and wait to upgrade but with one caveat.

If you get to the point where you want to control the roast through Artisan or something breaks that's included in the upgrade kit, that would be the time to upgrade. You'd then have a B2K+ for $1085 + Shipping ($525 for roaster, $560 for upgrade). You could also try negotiating on price. That is an old model.

I love roasting with Artisan controlling the roast.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Stupid basic question, what does controlling via Artisan really mean beside the obvious? ... changing variables through the software instead of the unit interface.

I assume the unit itself allows for record and playback of roast, similar to scripting? What additional benefits does enabling control via artisan offer?

You can set all kinds of parameters to control fan speed and power. Of course you can save & modify the profiles and tweak things as you fine tune the roast subsequently.

An update...

I picked up the hottop late last week. When we fired it up, the motor didn't sound good. On the bright side, it heats up and I could read the BT and ET in artisan. The seller ended up lowering his price due to the motor. I used the saving to order a new one and filters from Michael. While the shipment is en-route, I took apart most of the stuff except for the motor, heating elements, and the electronics. I soaked everything in oxyclean overnight and they all came out nice and shinny for the most part. There are some stubborn spots inside of the top stainless cover, they are pretty small so I didn't bother removing them. I did notice some discoloration on the roast chamber, I assume that's just from the heating element. Also I tried to remove the front glass, but I couldn't remove the screws holding it against the front cover. I decided to just leave it to avoid breaking anything. Can I just soak the entire front cover w/ the glass in oxyclean?

Are you sure it's the motor and not the drum shaft alignment? (If it sounds wrong the the drum removed then I'd assume it is the motor).

Regarding the front cover & glass: I've never washed it without unscrewing the bevel as I thought water (or worse, soapy water) would get trapped.
You could spray it with a non-toxic cleaner and wipe it but soaking is way better.

If you can't get the screws out with a screwdriver (and some penetrating oil) perhaps a screw remover or drill (carefully) would work. It's a bit risky but if you blow it you can replace the whole front panel & glass (though unfortunately that would set you back $40).

Yeah the motor makes a loud clunking noise. I removed the drum and sent a video of the motor to Michael at hottop, he confirmed it didn't sound well and should be replaced. I got the replacement today, just need to find the time to install it.

I will try to remove the screws again, but they were welded to the front panel pretty tight.

I am looking at the upgrade guide on hottop site. To go from 8828B to latest 2k+, I will need to order the UK-106 kit. It's rated as Most Difficult. I like to get an idea of how difficult it really is. I took out everything except the motor, element, and electronics. What else I need to take out to accommodate the upgrade? Mind you I haven't put it back together yet, but so far I didn't find it particularly difficult.. just tedious with the random screw heads.

Riliu123 wrote:I am looking at the upgrade guide on hottop site. To go from 8828B to latest 2k+, I will need to order the UK-106 kit. It's rated as Most Difficult. I like to get an idea of how difficult it really is. I took out everything except the motor, element, and electronics. What else I need to take out to accommodate the upgrade? Mind you I haven't put it back together yet, but so far I didn't find it particularly difficult.. just tedious with the random screw heads.

From what I recall, the chassis base plate gets replaced. This would be similar to replacing the frame on a car. Everything off. Everything back on.

Not difficult. Just time.

Also take a look at the front plate where the drum rides. This is a typical wear part. If it looks like the drum has elongated the bearing indent, replace the plate.