Texmachina, GC7 et al.

Discuss roast levels and profiles for espresso, equipment for roasting coffee.
rynegold
Posts: 16
Joined: 6 years ago

#1: Post by rynegold »

What kind of Roasters are you using? I read your posts about various things your roasting, temperatures Etc... Just wondering what kind of machines you people are using? Not just these two posters but any of you who care to respond. I am using the old behmor 1600... And it just seems to get worse and worse. I've tried all the tricks that I've heard of in the past to make it work better, but currently with a P1 profile, I have to roast pretty much the max allowed in added time, to get a decent dark roast with just about any bean.

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GC7
Posts: 1112
Joined: 16 years ago

#2: Post by GC7 »

Hi Mitch

My roaster has not changed for quite a few years. I use an old HotTop B manual model that I have modified in several simple ways to give me reproducible roasts that please me and my family and friends. I'm a scientist by trade and at work I use computer modeling and all kinds of genomic applications and hardware. At home for this hobby I like to keep it simple with programmed profiles manually modified by control of voltage, temperature and somewhat by smell and time. I have resisted automated computer control and graphing along with too much detailed analysis. I do write down time to FC, development and overall time and final temperature of all roasts.

I have insulated my drum. There is an old post documenting this.

I have a bean temperature probe installed through the bean chute using the Randy G template. It can download data but I generally just use the continuous thermometer.

Critically I have a big Variac attached to a KillAWatt to monitor voltage. I've found that a 1V change in line voltage can make a very big difference in profiles and heat output. I sit there and strictly keep the voltage where I know my profile will get me where I want when I want.

That's about it.

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badperson
Posts: 159
Joined: 13 years ago

#3: Post by badperson »

I also had a behmor for a number of years, and had the same basic issue as you. I would always use a 1lb cycle, time extended all the way, and I would vary the batch size; 10oz was the norm for me for a decent, full city roast.

I upgraded to the Quest M3 which made a world of difference, especially since I also used artisan (I think it's essential for a fully manual roaster).

Good luck!

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GC7
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Joined: 16 years ago

#4: Post by GC7 »

badperson wrote:I upgraded to the Quest M3 which made a world of difference, especially since I also used artisan (I think it's essential for a fully manual roaster).
Perhaps this is better discussed in another thread but I have found that without stable voltage control using an electric roaster artisan or any other computer control can be less than satisfactory. In NY where you live today the line voltage will be several V lower than other times of year when there is less demand for power. At 113 V under full power you can't get quick roasts. The variac can keep it at 119 V.

Just a bit of my experience over the years. This is probably true for a Behmor as well.

rynegold (original poster)
Posts: 16
Joined: 6 years ago

#5: Post by rynegold (original poster) »

Is this what we're talking about using??

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Variac-Variabl ... .TRS0.TSS0

And if so, is it "fire and forget" or do you have to be there to up the voltage if needed?

And what is an "Artisan"? where do you get one? is it the same as a PID?

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GC7
Posts: 1112
Joined: 16 years ago

#6: Post by GC7 replying to rynegold »

Take your time and find an older NON-Chinese made unit. The older ones are indestructible. I think you need 15 or 20 A units. It will be the best investment you can make along with a KillAWatt unit. I sit and monitor the roast as it progresses from my built in HotTop profiles. As long as I select a profile stored in the unit and keep the voltage where I want it as the roast progresses I get very consistent results.

rynegold (original poster)
Posts: 16
Joined: 6 years ago

#7: Post by rynegold (original poster) »

what am I doing w/the KillAWatt? I need both?

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GC7
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#8: Post by GC7 »

The KillA Watt is the voltage monitor. Without it you don't know the actual voltage delivered to your roaster.

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electri ... dpSrc=srch

texmachina
Posts: 74
Joined: 6 years ago

#9: Post by texmachina »

It depends where I am roasting. At home, a Kaldi Fortis; at the shop, either a Probatino or Probatone 5k.

mack1611
Posts: 55
Joined: 6 years ago

#10: Post by mack1611 »

I'm transitioning from a Whirley Pop/Coleman white gas stove to a Cormorant CR600.

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