Q's on roast profiles for Quest M3s w/mostly stock setup

Discuss roast levels and profiles for espresso, equipment for roasting coffee.
TonyC

Postby TonyC » Aug 10, 2018, 5:11 pm

While there are numerous posts on Quest roast profiles, I have not had much luck on finding profiles for the newer M3s with stock setup. Mine is early 2017 model M3s, with Coffee shrub TC's in stock BT location (not sight glass) and ET location, along with EricS TC for MET in upper left screw location of chimney. Using Artisan 1.0. Could anyone share a few profiles that have worked well with this type of setup, using SM's greens that they find good to learn to roast with? I have been practicing with loads of 150 or 180 g, and have made the mistake of buying too many green types, then getting confused as to what works with what green type, and not having much success with any of them (consistently getting ROR flick during FC). I am looking to buy quantity of one consistent 'easy to learn' green type (Columbia/Guatemala/recommendations of something currently in stock?) and going back to square one. Would appreciate any thoughts/suggestions of profiles that have worked for others as they have learned to drive the new Quest model.

I would also be interested in hearing from anyone that has been using a Killowat for measuring power levels, as those profiles appear to differ somewhat due to differences in Killowat vs Quest numbers (for amps). I find using the K-O-W a nice repeatable way to measure watts when roasting.

I have a couple of handheld anemometers and used them to measure fan output on Quest. For my unit (which has fan running at '0' level) I find the following flows (taping the fan on the outflow vents of the Quest):

Fan setting:
0-1 - 309 ft/min
2-6 - 337 ft/min
7-9 - 366 ft/min

Thinking this might be due to anemometer problem, taped up second one (different brand) and got essentially same results. Do others find that they have 3 distinct levels of fan flow on their units? Not sure if this is specific to my unit or others have same experience.

Love the Quest, and the challenges associated with the learning process! Thanks in advance for any thoughts/recommendations.

roastnbrew

Postby roastnbrew » Aug 10, 2018, 6:22 pm

TonyC wrote:Would appreciate any thoughts/suggestions of profiles that have worked for others as they have learned to drive the new Quest model.

I've been roasting with an M3s since spring, with about 50 roasts under my belt, and have had reasonable success with the following very simple formula:
1. 182 grams (2 lb bag / 5)
2. 800 watts on the Kill-a-Watt
3. Preheat to 350-400 F on the dial thermometer
4. Fan at 1/2 full scale till beginning of 1st crack, then full

This results in ~12 minute full city roasts. Except for the first roast in a session (probably not enough pre-heating), subsequent roasts of the same bean are very repeatable. I bought a 5lb bag of a high-grown Guatemala to start off.

I am by no means an expert roaster but have been very happy with the results. Next step: thermocouples and logging software.
-Karl

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another_jim
Team HB

Postby another_jim » Aug 10, 2018, 9:14 pm

I go for 4 minutes from start to yellow, another four to first crack, and another three to four to finish, regardless of how dark I go.

For my older quest, for 150 to 180 gram loads, I have to preheat to about 400, and stay at around 9 amps (110 volt land) till I'm close to the first crack. For light roasts, I then back off to 4 to 5 amps, for darker roasts, proportionally less. I keep the airflow high for dry process, medium for wet process. If you have an ET meter, keep it around 500F, but for light roasts drop it gradually to 450 (start dropping when the BT is 350, finish when you get to 390), so you can get enough development time for natural sweetness.
Jim Schulman

TonyC

Postby TonyC » Aug 12, 2018, 4:33 pm

Thanks Karl, I have been happy with my Coffee Shrub TC's, and they work great with Artisan. I have used both Artisan and Roastmaster, and while Roastmaster works well w/IOS, I found support for Artisan here at HB to be really great (although I would love to have someone point me to specifics on how to set up sliders for Fan and Heat - as I have been 'befuddled' when looking at posted links).

Jim, thanks for your follow up as well, as I have read nearly all of your Quest posts, which has been a great learning experience. A couple of quick follow up questions on your post:

1. Could you elaborate a bit on drying time (I am using Artisan). I see quite a few comments on DE being to 300F, which of course would vary some based on green type, etc. I have a hard time determining through sight of where I am in drying process (benefit of me turning 'vintage') and tend to shoot for BT of 300F as my selection for Dry End. Is that reasonable?
2. When you start dropping heat at BT of 350, could you elaborate a bit on how much? I find that I am riding my amp control on Quest (or Watts on K-O-W) but seem to overshoot or undershoot, due to lag between change in input and change to MET. Any suggestions?

Thanks...

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another_jim
Team HB

Postby another_jim » Aug 12, 2018, 6:58 pm

The lags are long, so pretend to be a PID controller (or tanker captain) and start making small adjustments way ahead of the time you want to see a change. For me, the lag is about 60 to 90 seconds; but I'm using a slower mechanical thermometer for ET. The bean temperature responds to changes in ET, so the ROR is no faster either.

I get yellowing between 300 and 320. I spike the amps within this range (then back off again at 350) but I haven't seen much difference in doing it earlier or later. The big thing for light roasts is to have the ET down to about 450F by the first crack, since the roast will finish in a minute or so, and be underdeveloped, if you are still up at 500F. For medium or dark roasts, this isn't necessary.

The ET values are for my setup, and they seemingly vary dramatically from roaster to roaster, so you'll need to translate. The key is to get in three to four minutes after the first crack starts, regardless of roast depth. In a dozen roasts or so, you'll know what range of ETs that requires on your setup.
Jim Schulman

EddyQ

Postby EddyQ » Aug 13, 2018, 9:05 pm

TonyC wrote:I have a couple of handheld anemometers and used them to measure fan output on Quest.


The fan output from the Quest M3s is a combination of air through the drum and from the other electrics cooling fan.