My "new" 5kg Turkish roaster has arrived - Page 16

Discuss roast levels and profiles for espresso, equipment for roasting coffee.
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Almico (original poster)
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#151: Post by Almico (original poster) »

OldNuc wrote:I would opt for the convoluted piping scheme. Gas direct into control valve and at the outlet come out with a "U" configuration to mount needle valve and gauge under or in front of gas valve then use a longer flex connector to get back to the burners.
I like the way you think, Rich. Who can pass up a convoluted piping scheme when the opportunity presents...

OldNuc
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#152: Post by OldNuc »

It can always be tidied up after you see if it actually works. I tend to use copper tubing with flare fittings for all of this metal origami as it is easier to work with than brass pipe. You could leave the needle valve on the inlet and there is likely an outlet pressure tap for 1/8 TIP on the outlet side which would make it all rather clean and simple.

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Almico (original poster)
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#153: Post by Almico (original poster) replying to OldNuc »

I'm not sure I follow. If the valve is on the inlet side, then when I close it no gas will get to the controller.

OldNuc
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#154: Post by OldNuc »

Are you closing it 100% or just throttling it down to control heat? The pilot requires minimal gas to remain functional so as long as it is not full closed the pilot will stay on. Just thinking on how to get it all cleaned up without making a spaghetti nightmare out of it as moving that gas valve and pilot tubing could turn into a real hassle.

Madman13
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#155: Post by Madman13 »

Almico wrote: My takeaway is that, given the squirreliness of these roasts, I'm surprised how juicy all of them are. With my air roaster I fight dryness and astringency and struggle for sweetness. With this roaster both seem to come easily with more margin for error in the curves. The jury is still out, but it looks this drum roasting thing might be worth the PITA that it is. That's the only disappointment so far.
This is just the kind of comparison I was hoping to get from you when I saw that you were getting a drum roster (in the context of your extensive fluid bed experience). I hope to see further comparisons as you perfect your skills and have more time with the drum roaster. Have you noticed if the weight loss is the same or less with the drum roaster compared to the fluid bed if roasting the same beans to the same temperature (is the additional air flow with the fluidbed roaster drying the beans more or is it not a factor).

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Chert
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#156: Post by Chert »

Almico wrote:I can drill some holes and remount the control valve an inch or two to the left. I'm hoping I have enough slack in the wires and pilot gas line. If not I may need to leave it where it is an create a convoluted piping loop to make room.
I don't want to get in the way of the convoluted piping scheme.

So that box of safety valve is mounted to the exterior of the roaster? Is there a separate flame within the roaster that heats the pilot TC?

I may be wrong, bu I think: If you move the controls to the outlet side, you need to verify that there is a pilot light which holds the safety valve open. It needs to have a steady supply of gas at full supply to the inlet side of the safety valve, not too much, not too little. If there is not a separate small flame keeping the valve open then you will be back where you started. You will run gas at very low setting and the TC will cool, closing the valve.
LMWDP #198

Moxiechef
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#157: Post by Moxiechef »

I'd try to leave the gas safety valve where it is. Put a ball valve where the current gas gauge is, upstream of the gas valve.

Then after the safety valve, put a 90 pointing down, then the needle valve, then another 90, then the pressure gauge, then a 90 pointing back up towards the flex gas line into the burners.

I'd face the gas gauge point up towards the ceiling, not exactly as I drew it.

Three 90s and a few close nipples and you should be set. I'd just try my best to not touch the safety valve, just a potential can of worms there.

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OldNuc
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#158: Post by OldNuc »

Without having the gas valve in hand it is difficult to tell what it actually is but ther are actual propane rated devices that could be used to really clean this all up nicely and be done with flameouts etc. Some of this may be the result of some strange EU or Turkey safety standard.

When converting a NG appliance/device to LP gas the person doing the conversion is usually on their own, no official guidance.

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Almico (original poster)
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#159: Post by Almico (original poster) »

Chert wrote:I don't want to get in the way of the convoluted piping scheme.

So that box of safety valve is mounted to the exterior of the roaster? Is there a separate flame within the roaster that heats the pilot TC?

I may be wrong, bu I think: If you move the controls to the outlet side, you need to verify that there is a pilot light which holds the safety valve open. It needs to have a steady supply of gas at full supply to the inlet side of the safety valve, not too much, not too little. If there is not a separate small flame keeping the valve open then you will be back where you started. You will run gas at very low setting and the TC will cool, closing the valve.
I have a feeling this is exactly what is happening. At the end of the roast, when I am turning the gas down to 1" WC or so to try and prevent a flick, I can easily see the main flame through the viewing glass and it's about 1/2" high. Then all of a sudden the gauge jumps to 12" WC and the flame is out. It must be the safety shutting down the system. I have not noticed what the pilot flame was doing at that time, but I will look now.

So the good news is I don't need to move the valve/gauge. The bad news: I need to find a way to keep the safety open.

But does it make sense that this roaster is designed to only run at full throttle?
Moxiechef wrote:I'd try to leave the gas safety valve where it is. Put a ball valve where the current gas gauge is, upstream of the gas valve.

Then after the safety valve, put a 90 pointing down, then the needle valve, then another 90, then the pressure gauge, then a 90 pointing back up towards the flex gas line into the burners.

I'd face the gas gauge point up towards the ceiling, not exactly as I drew it.

Three 90s and a few close nipples and you should be set. I'd just try my best to not touch the safety valve, just a potential can of worms there. <image>
This is where I was going until Chert's comment. I fear regardless where the needle valve is, as soon as I turn the heat down low, the safety will cut me off.

UPDATE: Confirmed:

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Almico (original poster)
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#160: Post by Almico (original poster) »

Close up of the safety valve:




There is a little set screw that says "pilot". But when I turn it I don't see the pilot light doing anything.