Do either of your index rings have marks on them that correspond to "0" on the number decal?

cannonfodder wrote:On both of my Max grinders, I turned them on and dialed them down until the burrs started to touch. Then I pulled the hopper off and removed the index ring and reset it to, or very close to zero. You just remove those three screws and lift.

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Marshall wrote:I don't think "factory setting" means anything on these machines. They don't come with a "recommended" sticker arrow like the Mazzers.

Just to be clear, I don't think the numbers mean anything specific either, which is why I put the word "factory" in quotation marks in my post above. The numbers obviously mean something relative to one another, in that 2 is larger than 1, and 5 produces a larger grind than 2; but I think the number at which the grinder leaves the factory is decidedly arbitrary.

Cheers,
Jason

I didn't either, but when I had it apart for the first time and saw the scribe marks line up... it seems like someone zeroed mine.

Since the number ring is a decal on the "big wheel" (index ring?) that is bolted to the gear and the upper burr carrier, and not adjustable once applied, zeroing has to occur before applying the decal, no?

cannonfodder wrote:On both of my Max grinders, I turned them on and dialed them down until the burrs started to touch. Then I pulled the hopper off and removed the index ring and reset it to, or very close to zero. You just remove those three screws and lift.

I get the "how," but I don't get the "why."

Being able to compare grind settings could provide a sanity check for equipment or technique defects, or even be an additional element to the "mass, time, temp & volume" brew recipes people share when trying new beans.

Not trying to be a smarty-pants - I'm a newbie. I've always managed to disprove anyone who ever thought I was smart...

caffeine wrote:Unless both grinders are in the same room pulling shots on the same machine on the same roast...

And oh, yeah, the thickness of the burr sets varies...

Same room pulling shots on the same machine on the same roast but... not same grinder!
Weekdays I use Versalab M3, weekends I need Cimbali Max Hybrid( extra serving to co- workers, my project construction workers, neighbors and my Mother in law always stays with us on Sat then my wife joints in

Of course, can't match the grind setting on the 2 different grinders!
Can't beat the convenience one single shot at a time of the DOSERLESS Versalab M3 ; but I ( IMHO ) tend to like the grind quality (same Conical&Flat burr set style), the cafe taste of the CMH more plus the cleanness and NO STATIC of it.
Still need more time to ENJOY playing with them
(Who said " The difference of BOYS and MEN is the PRICE of their TOYS!" ) I've read somewhere like an ad. trying to talk you into spending and even smart guys like us; for example zin1953 still be tricked in!

Cafesp

Few more random notes . . .

I'm still impressed amazed at just how much difference the Cimbali Max Hybrid makes to the shot quality. I mean, obviously I thought it would; why else would I have purchased a new grinder? But I'm surprised at just how big a difference it is. (This should point out the obvious, that regardless of getting my first Pavoni Europiccola in 1976, I'm still a "newbie" at heart with a lot to learn.)

Took it down to "1" without choking the La Val, and back up to 1.25; now it's back at 1. So far, it's very forgiving, in that the flavor profile across the board -- from 1 to 5 -- is superior to what I was getting from the Mazzer. Also, the grinds are much fluffier and there is much less static with this new grinder than with either the Mini Mazzer or the Quick Mill, and the doser sweeps much cleaner than the Mazzer as well.

In fact, I'm enjoying the Max Hybrid so much, I haven't plugged the Mazzer back in to try shots side-by-side which, in the interests of science, you understand . . . .

If I remember, I'll try that tomorrow.

Cheers,
Jason

Congratulations, Jason, on your new Cimbali Hybrid. I'm jealous. Your enthusiasm is quite contagious!

I'm still very new to this so forgive me if my question is elementary. I want to understand how much
"play" or distance there is between "1" and "2" and since you are so close to "0," does that mean you cannot grind any finer (as for the powder fineness required for Turkish coffee)?

Appreciate your taking the time to post your results.

perstare

Marshall wrote:I get the "how," but I don't get the "why."

I had the machine apart for cleaning so I set the zero, or set it close to zero. Simple as that.

The grind index is relative and its only real purpose is to provide you with a return point. So if I grind at 5.75 for espresso, when I crank it up to 20 for drip I can return back to 5.75 and pick up where I left off at.

perstare wrote:Congratulations, Jason, on your new Cimbali Hybrid. I'm jealous. Your enthusiasm is quite contagious!

Thank you, but one shouldn't overlook the fact I may just be over-caffeinated!

perstare wrote: . . . does that mean you cannot grind any finer (as for the powder fineness required for Turkish coffee)?

You have me at a slight disadvantage, as I've only ever made Turkish Israeli coffee once -- with a psycho Israeli ex-girlfriend, and she brought the coffee back, pre-ground and in foil packets, from a visit back to Tel-Aviv. [shudder] Fortunately I'm married now -- to someone else (Thank God!) -- and I think the restraining orders are still in effect . . .

Sorry. Where were we?

Ah, yes. I remember. Grinding on "1" is much finer than where I was on the Mini Mazzer, more like Turkish in fact. If we go by the old comparison that coffee beans ground for espresso should be the approximate size of sugar crystals, this is much more like "superfine" crystals, but not as fine as powdered sugar. Does that make sense? (I hope so; I'm not sure how else to explain it.)

Cheers,
Jason