Wilfa Uniform - how to make new zero point?

#1: Post by **cactus_farmer** » July 20th, 2022, 5:16 pm

If, for example, at your '1' setting, your burrs are still far from touching and therefore you're grinding too coarse with no scope for adjusting finer, you will need to make a new zero point.

I found this short video trying to address how to make a new zero point on the Wilfa Uniform but don't understand it at all.

He's unscrewed the static burr carrier from the bean hopper, but did not seem to move the relative position of the static burr carrier on the bean hopper at all before screwing it back together. No explaination, no demonstration.

I also found the above image of how to unscrew the static burr from the bean hopper. Since there is a 3 screw arrangement, surely you're need to rotate the static burr carrier a massive 120 degrees any time you want to make an adjustment? And therefore you'd way overshoot or undershoot your new zero point? I.e. you'd go from zero point of '2' to a zero point of '22' or something similar?

How do you make subtle adjustments to the zero point?

#2: Post by **Jonk** » July 20th, 2022, 6:55 pm

Try it and you'll understand. You unscrew those highlighted screws (and the last one not visible in the picture), allowing you to rotate the carrier and screw it into a different position on the hopper.

Yes, you'll likely undershoot or overshoot on the first try our tries, but eventually you can zero in on the true zero point. Quite annoying - be very careful not to break anything or cross-thread in the process, those grinders are not exactly high quality.

July 21st, 2022, 2:36 am

Great, thanks.

But since there are only 3 screws connecting the burr carrier to the hopper, there can only be 3 different potential positions for the burr carrier to be in (relative to the bean hopper), right?

I'm seeing people online saying things like "I had to adjust my zero point 3 clicks counterclockwise" and I don't understand how they were able to do that with only 3 potential positions being available?

#4: Post by **Jonk** » July 21st, 2022, 4:37 am

There are screw holes all around the hopper. One for every click.

July 22nd, 2022, 3:17 pm

Great. Thank you for clarifying that.

By the way, are any 58mm flat burrs able to fit into the Wilfa Uniform? Or is the specific 58mm flat burr ("SSP 58mm brewing burr set") mentioned by The Coffee Chronicler on the below link the only 58mm flat burr on the market that will fit the Wilfa Uniform?;

https://coffeechronicler.com/the-wilfa-ssp-burr-hack/

#6: Post by **Jonk** » July 22nd, 2022, 5:13 pm

Stock Uniform uses Mazzer Mini burrs. Not sure if there are other 58mm burrs that are compatible, but there's no point installing anything else in my opinion because those Mazzer burrs are already a bit better for brew in my experience. If you can source the SSP burrs it's a huge upgrade though.

July 22nd, 2022, 5:26 pm

Is there any way of knowing whether one 58mm burr will fit whereas another 58mm burr won't? And why would one set fit and another not if they're all the exact same size (to the millimeter) by definition?

#8: Post by **Jonk** » July 22nd, 2022, 5:57 pm

Burrs are directional, so if the motor spins in the wrong direction it won't work. There are tolerances involved and one manufacturer's "58mm" might be 57,9 and another's 58,2mm. If that ends up too big for the carrier it's a no go. Screw holes vary in amount and spacing from the edges.

All of these problems can potentially be solved with a dremel, drill, tap and reversing the motor. But assume that burrs of the same "size" might not fit without heavy modification.

July 26th, 2022, 6:50 pm

OK, just got my Wilfa Uniform.

At '0' on the dial, there is a hard stop on the dial (can't turn it any further) and there is no 'chirping' sound of the burrs touching at that point...

I do not understand how undoing those 3 screws and changing the position of the burr carrier relative to the bean hopper could cause the burrs to get any closer together at the finest setting (so they'd actually make the chirping sound).

Whether you rotate the burr carrier on the bean hopper such that the hard stop of the finest setting is now at position '20', or position '35' on the bean hopper dial instead of position of '0' - you will still reach that hard stop where the bean hopper doesn't turn anymore, and at that hard stop the bottom burr will still be the same distance from the top burr no matter how you've changed the position of the burr carrier relative to the bean hopper...?

Am I missing something?

Basically, there's no way to force the bottom and top burrs to be closer together at the grinder's finest setting?

#10: Post by **Jonk** » July 26th, 2022, 8:13 pm

The hard stop was not very far off from chirp on my unit. It makes sense to offset it a bit like that from factory since the grinder is mainly meant for coarser grinds, protecting the user from damaging the burrs.

The disadvantage is that there's the risk of cross-threading instead when someone wants to calibrate it for espresso use, instead of minor damage to the burrs I ended up with an expensive paperweight while trying to calibrate exactly to 0 because there's some trial and error involved. It's the only grinder out of 40+ that I've owned where that has happened - I blame it on poor quality threads but who knows..

Can it be done? Yes.
Do I recommend it? Not really, I'd even be a bit hesitant to clean it. But my experience is only based on that one unit, it could have been an exception. The long version of why I advised caution. Had I left it alone with chirp at one of the low numbers I'm sure it'd still be working.