Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
I have no idea exactly what Mazzer quote in their literature; there is every possibility that it's 'real' input power (which is of no use to anyone really, hence its location in the brochure). Output power can be calculated for a measured speed and torque.Laral wrote:I find it hard to believe the manufacturer of an appliance would quote the output power. How would they measure it? What significance would it have for anyone but possibly an engineer or a physicist? The end user is only interested in the power *consumption*. The power figure is only given in Mazzer's ad copy. The nameplate only gives the current and voltage ratings. The real power consumption would be the nameplate V*I multiplied by the power factor. For V*I=900VA a power factor of .7 would give a power consumption of 650W. So you are correct but for the wrong reason. The output power would be still less due primarily to load friction. The power factor already includes resistive heating of the windings.
My Mini only has 230V and 250W on the nameplate. I'm not sure if I want to risk getting out the multimeter to check what that refers to!
Hey Psyd, thanks for the two data points. That's what I was hoping for. Your manual would be interesting. Why don't you upload it to a free hosting service like MediaFire and post the link in this thread so others can download it too. If you or anyone else wants, I can do the same with a scan of my dual manual. Mazzer does not make pdfs of their manuals available apparently.Psyd wrote:Mine both have 'Major Aut' on their tags, and both are listed at 7.5A at 110V at 60Hz, single phase. You have a Royal Manual. I could e-mail you a .pdf of the Major Manual, and you could compare them.
That is only logical.And appliances are labeled with their draw. It is the reason that they are required to be labeled. No one at CU, UL, or NSAE care about your advertising, they're safety oriented, and the output power of the motor matters not one whit to them. Absolutely, the safety plate is displaying the amount of power that the appliance will draw.
Thank you Psyd. It's nice to see a parts and wiring diagram in there. Mine doesn't have them. I get the impression they don't want people working on them themselves.
Update. I just talked to the technical guy at Mazzer through a translator, the export manager who spoke English. I could not get a direct answer about power factor considerations because of the language barrier but apparently the nameplate rating is some kind of maximum rating. He said in practice, the current draw is around 4 amps, not 7.5 or even 5.5. I suspect that the nameplate rating is the TOTAL power input without accounting for the power factor as explained before. The distribution engineer at my local power comapny confirmed that. He said the wiring requirement for an appliance must be according to the plate rating. And the wattmeter measures *actual* resistive power consumption not total consumption.