SSP Redspeed Burr or Eureka Zenith 65 alignment issue

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Hide
Posts: 15
Joined: 9 years ago

#1: Post by Hide »

I'm currently using a Eureka Zenith 65E, and got a 64mm SSP Red speed burr (which I enquired with SSP that they do work).

Installed the SSP carefully, there's some wiggle vs stock, I've aligned as centre as possible and for a while it gives proper shots and does grind a little faster.

However currently facing some issues where I had no more room for finer adjustment (1mm more it'll grind the burr itself), but the flow is still too fast.

Anyone faces the same issue?

Rytopa
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#2: Post by Rytopa »

Are you single dosing? Try filing up the hopper and give it a try.

Hide (original poster)
Posts: 15
Joined: 9 years ago

#3: Post by Hide (original poster) »

I realised, the one of the screw if tightened fully, the burr will grind with each other much earlier, Ive noticed this by loosening it and seek for the zero point. But will it be unsafe if i leave it untightened? The zero point right now is still not the finest that can choke the machine...

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Terranova
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#4: Post by Terranova »

Hide wrote: The zero point right now is still not the finest that can choke the machine...
It can be misalignment, (run out, screws tightened with different strength) or the new burrs not producing "enough fines", which would be a similar scenario like EK43 and other grinders with "unimodal burr geometries".

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Denis
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#5: Post by Denis »

Can you post a image of your SSP burrs?

Hide (original poster)
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#6: Post by Hide (original poster) »

The top screw once screw down (not tightened) I can feel the chuff chuff burr grinding. Once I loosen it it's gone. I've tried putting a shim but once I tightened it's back again.

So I've decided to just leave it screwed but not tightened at all, finger turn possible. Shall monitor this longer.

Interestingly, the shot has more deeper color taste I need to monitor a bit longer. But I don't like the idea having one screw not screwed in... Any idea how do I go about this?

chris_n
Posts: 389
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#7: Post by chris_n »

the surface of that burr mount is probably not even, which is why when you tighten down the last screw, it makes that out of alignment noise.

Hide (original poster)
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#8: Post by Hide (original poster) »

But the weird thing is I've tried the shim method and it didnt solve it... and it is consistently due to that particular top screw, my guess its the grinder's own miss alignment of its bottom (As eureka owners may know, the burr adjustment is coming from the bottom instead of Mazzer style top down adjustment), and it is kinda tilted to an angle...but still this doesnt explain why shim method doesnt work :? :?

jpboyt
Posts: 220
Joined: 14 years ago

#9: Post by jpboyt »

Double check that the head of the screw is not hitting the side of the counterbore in the burr. If the hole pattern in the burr does not match the hole pattern in the burr the screw head can pull the burr off center enough that the far side of the burr gets lifted up onto the step in the rotating burr holder. All it takes is a few thousandth of an inch to cause an issue. Most of the time switching to a cheese head screw will fix the issue.
If you have a set of calipers you can verify that the new burrs match the old burrs for hole location.
Remember that with a counterbore it is the either the shank of the screw relative to the hole or the diameter of the head to the counterbore that determines the amount of lateral tolerance for ease of fit. The feature with the least amount of difference to the hole or counterbore will a problem source. Also my guess is that the burrs coming out of S.Korea are being made by copying existing burrs and not by measuring grinder mating parts. Spent enough time in the electrical power sector making replacement parts to know that reverse engineered parts don't always fit.
If you want to do a test, since you have one of the few grinders that adjust by lifting the armature, you can pull the burrs and place modeling clay on the lower burr holder. Crank the adjustor up until the clay hits the upper. Make sure the lower does not spin. Pull the top off and measure the clay for thickness. If it isn't the same thickness all the way around then you have a bent rotating burr holder. Or get a machinist friend to mount a dial indicator and check the runout on the mounting surface of the lower burr holder. Same can be done with a depth micrometer since the upper burr mount is the mechanical equivalent to a flat plate.
jpboyt

walt_in_hawaii
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#10: Post by walt_in_hawaii »

You probably should not run it with a screw not tightened down. The screw may loosen up under vibration and work its way out enough to hit the burrs, which will probably cause some damage to the burrs. That, plus I am unsure about the need for that much oxides of iron in our diet.
If you must leave one of the screws a bit loose, you can clean the screw and hole out carefully using a good solvent like contact cleaner, then using loctite or similar to glue the screw in there so it won't vibrate out. That way you can leave it loose enough for your purposes and not run the risk of burr damage.
Still, I'd wager something else is going on. A grinder of that caliber should be able to choke your machine quite easily, so you should first find out why it isn't doing that. Season the burrs first before making a long term decision, as the grind is likely to change as the burrs break in.

aloha,
walt

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