SSP 64mm "brew" burr coating
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- Posts: 23
- Joined: 8 years ago
Hello,
Is there a noticeable difference in grind quality for SSP "brew" burrs due to different coatings, or are they mainly for better longevity? I'm looking to order a set to dedicate a Super Jolly for pour over duty, but debating on un-coated vs silver knight.
Thanks!
Is there a noticeable difference in grind quality for SSP "brew" burrs due to different coatings, or are they mainly for better longevity? I'm looking to order a set to dedicate a Super Jolly for pour over duty, but debating on un-coated vs silver knight.
Thanks!
- JacquesCousteaudian
- Posts: 28
- Joined: 4 years ago
Hi!
Nobody ever replied to this, so I'll give it a shot, based on what I know. I've just bought the SSP 64mm Brew burrs, in the 'Silver Knight' coating. My private seller had some numbers on hardness, and it said that Silver Knight is about 30% harder/tougher than Red Speed coating.
I've read multiple places that Hansung (the owner of SSP) prefers Silver Knight coating for brewing/pour-over purposes, but I don't know what this is based on. However, it seems the Lagom grinder (which appears very nice) ships with 64mm Red Speeds, and they have a direct cooperation with SSP. So I can't imagine them being subpar in any way for brew.
All in all, I think you're good to go with whatever is available. It's for sure better than choosing no coating, since the price difference is negligible and you don't have to worry about corrosion/rust with light-roasted coffee that have higher residual moisture in them (again, not an expert, this is what my seller told me). If you wanna be sure, send Hansung a mail and ask for recommendations specific to your needs.
Let me know what you went with, and what your experience is!
Nobody ever replied to this, so I'll give it a shot, based on what I know. I've just bought the SSP 64mm Brew burrs, in the 'Silver Knight' coating. My private seller had some numbers on hardness, and it said that Silver Knight is about 30% harder/tougher than Red Speed coating.
I've read multiple places that Hansung (the owner of SSP) prefers Silver Knight coating for brewing/pour-over purposes, but I don't know what this is based on. However, it seems the Lagom grinder (which appears very nice) ships with 64mm Red Speeds, and they have a direct cooperation with SSP. So I can't imagine them being subpar in any way for brew.
All in all, I think you're good to go with whatever is available. It's for sure better than choosing no coating, since the price difference is negligible and you don't have to worry about corrosion/rust with light-roasted coffee that have higher residual moisture in them (again, not an expert, this is what my seller told me). If you wanna be sure, send Hansung a mail and ask for recommendations specific to your needs.
Let me know what you went with, and what your experience is!
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- Joined: 4 years ago
Corrosion caused by light roasts sounds like a bogus claim to be frank. I'm sure the coatings are worth it for genuine reasons though.
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- Joined: 9 years ago
Bought almost unused SSP brew burrs Silver Knight coated for my Wilfa Uniform. Have these not been for sale locally I would have bought the brew burr coated from SSP myself. Doesn't cost that much more and won't have to think about them ever wearing down. If the price difference was more I'm not sure I'd so it though.
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Have you had any issues with stalling? Considering the Uniform can stall with the original Mazzer burrs at the finer settings.Eiern wrote:Bought almost unused SSP brew burrs Silver Knight coated for my Wilfa Uniform.
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- Posts: 628
- Joined: 9 years ago
A little early to say as I installed them yesterday. I did run a kilo of beans through it at different settings, some finer than I'll use, and had no stalls. I always start the motor before I drop beans in.
There was one problem however: SSP were slimmer, especially in the screw mounting holes, so when I tightened the screws they dug down touching the chamber and that stalled the grinder for sure. So it need either shorter screws or shaving off the for this upgrade, or washers underneath the screw caps. The M4 washers I had were too big to fit inside the holes. SSP was a tight fit, I could barely fit the slimmest 0,05mm feeler gauge blade in between there when centering.
I had to recalibrate the zero point about 7 clicks, the old burrs were touching at setting 2. Grinds look good.
New grind settings are a little finer on the dial. 200g handbrew is now probably in the 10-15 area. Didn't use it that much with the stock burrs. Got decent results in brew, not espresso, but coming from the EK43 it wasn't entirely satisfying. I now use SSP High Uniformity burrs in the EK which makes great espresso even from scandinavian filter roasts, but the coffee got worse: hollow bitter little aftertaste lacking fullness and sweetness. Even preferred Wilfa stock burrs over that.
There was one problem however: SSP were slimmer, especially in the screw mounting holes, so when I tightened the screws they dug down touching the chamber and that stalled the grinder for sure. So it need either shorter screws or shaving off the for this upgrade, or washers underneath the screw caps. The M4 washers I had were too big to fit inside the holes. SSP was a tight fit, I could barely fit the slimmest 0,05mm feeler gauge blade in between there when centering.
I had to recalibrate the zero point about 7 clicks, the old burrs were touching at setting 2. Grinds look good.
New grind settings are a little finer on the dial. 200g handbrew is now probably in the 10-15 area. Didn't use it that much with the stock burrs. Got decent results in brew, not espresso, but coming from the EK43 it wasn't entirely satisfying. I now use SSP High Uniformity burrs in the EK which makes great espresso even from scandinavian filter roasts, but the coffee got worse: hollow bitter little aftertaste lacking fullness and sweetness. Even preferred Wilfa stock burrs over that.
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- Joined: 4 years ago
How do you calibrate the zero point on the Uniform? Can't find any information about that, mine just clicks to a hard stop before touching.
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- Joined: 9 years ago
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- Posts: 628
- Joined: 9 years ago
The setting with brew burrs at setting 20 matches James Hoffmann's EK cupping example, maybe a tad too coarse. I'd go a bit finer with our water but I'd say visually these are pretty similar. I have High Uniformity burrs in my EK so I don't use that for the cupping or brewing in general. Also for the session using a different catch cup as the lid drives me a little mad for heavy use. And I put a heavier wooden lid on top as it's a little more quiet than the thin light plastic lid.
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Where did you get that lid, IKEA?
I have noticed the same thing.. the plastic lid is too light. A little push down on it while grinding and the whole grinders is considerable quieter.
I have noticed the same thing.. the plastic lid is too light. A little push down on it while grinding and the whole grinders is considerable quieter.