Hello all,

this is my first post here however I read (and learnt) a lot on this site. Since a few days I've been busy restoring my Mazzer SJ. The grinder wasn't in a bad condition but I wanted to have another color and remove the little scratches. When i'm done with my restoration I will post my before- and after pictures;). This is my first project so I still have some questions,

Here are some pictures of how my grinder looks like right now;



I used sandgrit paper by hand and machinal, P180 P240 and P400

Is it really neccessary to remove the paint for 100%? Or can I start with some primer layers on the grinder.
I'm also still figuring out how to mask the mazzer logo correctly, the sides are hard to mask does anyone has a tip. I remember that I read that someone used woodglue here of vaseline, maybe someone has an even better tip.

First, welcome to Home Barista!!!

The Mazzer body is aluminum

Paint and normal primer will NOT stick to aluminum

You will need to put down a layer of "etching primer" then a layer of standard automotive primer, wet sand with 600 grit, then the finish coat, and clear (if you want to clear coat).

http://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/about-u ... imers.html

I'm going to have to disagree with Mick as your standard automotive primer will stick to aluminum. Etching primers are typically used on steel that might rust under the primer. Along with restoring/repainting God knows how many motorcycles when I did that professionally I've also refurbished 9 or 10 old Starbucks Mazzers. No issues with the primer; 2 part or auto spray cans, adhering to the bare Mazzers.

I've got a 03' Super Jolly I picked up on ebay. I want to put a sweet paint job on it someday but don't want to give up espresso when that time comes. There is no way my wife will let me get another grinder...will she?

Fair enough. But surely she realizes that you need a travel grinder so that you can make her coffee on the road?

My travel grinder is a feldgrind (feldwood, actually) made by Knock. Nice thing about that is that it can back up both my espresso grinder and my brew grinder. There are other precision hand grinders that perform similarly at a similar price point. While there's not much that can go wrong with an HG-One, I totally broke out the feldwood when my Baratza needed servicing last week:

Different grinder and base metal, but here's a related thread for the OP:

Customizing a Kenia K22U Grinder

Thank you all, I now removed all the paint and i noticed that i was sanding too fine the whole time so i had a hard time removing the paint hehe. I just finished wet sanding with p400 and i'm going to put my primer layers on now, do you recommend sanding the primer layers before the final color coat? The finest grit paper i have here is p400

You will want to mist a guide coat over your primer & wet sand to show/remove any defects/low spots/ect. If you are using a light grey primer mist some red oxide primer over it as a guide coat. Ideally you'd wet sand with 600 grt prior to top coating.

I just got an SJ off CL yesterday. It's in surprisingly good condition for the asking price. I was assuming I'd have to paint it, but maybe not. I manage an autobody shop and a nice pearl red would be different.

Heey people thanks for all the advice, I just started with painting my top coat (1st layer) and I already see some mistakes.
I had a drip which i removed with paper, and I see some weird spots I think they're pinholes but i'm not sure, how can I fix those mistakes?
Do I have to sand it all over?