Pharos 2.0 upgrade kit--can upgraders share their experiences? - Page 2

Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
opother
Posts: 401
Joined: 14 years ago

#11: Post by opother »

Exordium01 wrote:I ordered the same. A couple notes:

1. I had to use the plastic bolt covers on the top area between top plate and burr plate because the Al bolt covers were ~0.5mm too tall so I couldn't get the right burr-to-plate spacing. If I were doing it over again, I'd have gotten the new plastic hopper (the old one was just a translucent tube that Doug cut in his garage.

2. I also had to ream out the thrust washer because the ID was too small for the axle.

3. The new clamping ring uses a 3mm hex head instead of whatever shipped with the Pharos 1.0 and the old one doesn't quite get tight enough.

The hardest part of the upgrade is getting the burr off the old axle. Doug recommends getting a PVC pipe and a rubber mallet, but I used the edge of my butcher's block to support the burr while I hammered on the axle. I'm not 100% thrilled with my burr alignment
I just got the Ver 1 to ver 2 upgrade kit today.

In a nut shell I am surprised and impressed. I did not try using the old hopper as version 1 had different height hoppers over time and may not be the right size to use with the newer aluminum bolt sleeves if you choose to purchase them separately. I chose to install the new hopper with the new aluminum bolt covers and experienced no problems.

You are on point. I also had to open up the thrust washer. I did not try using the old bolt (it screwed on fine but I did not try tightening the hex screw.) The new nut has the pointer which I find handy and a metric tightening screw.

First thing I notice upon taking apart the grinder was a discharge of a good amount of stray coffee grounds all over my table and chair. One quirk of the pre version 2 Pharos is stray grinds find their way into the area between the piece of PVC pipe that supports the two lower plates and the inner dosing funnel over time. They don't find their way back into the funnel so your coffee is not affected but it is annoying knowing that. I soon forgot but was reminded today obviously. I am also glad to not have to karate chop or spank my pharos to get the grinds out anymore. It was fun but can be a hassle depending on situation mood etc....

I wrapped a whole plastic bag around shaft and over the conical burr to provide an impact barrier. I had no pvc pipe on hand so I had to use a metal one. I used a chunk or rr rail to bang the burr out (about 5 or 6 hits) with the bottom of the shaft resting on a piece of scrap wood. I did have to remove some Loctite to get the burr to slip over the new axle (shaft) and key. Fit was very snug they make these quite precise but I did not have to do any hammering or tapping.

I found alignment to be a lot easier than I thought it would be and only went through the fiddling process 4 or 5 times. What I thought would be an espresso setting wound up being turkish powder on my first try which extracted very slow on my La Peppina and made less than 1/2 oz with almost no crema at about 35 seconds taste was bland with a slight hint of bitter. Blend was fresh Blue bottle Giant steps It took me 4 attempts to dial it in with somewhat the same results in between. I found the range at which the grinds were turkish fine to be wide which was a good sign as far as alignment is concerned. Fourth attempt pulled a shot at the right speed in fact slightly faster than should be but I blew the shot because the Peppina was not hot enough.

Using the same grind setting on my Olympia Maximatic gave a great reddish crema laden shot of about 1oz using 13 grams of coffee. I found the flavor to be very smooth no bitterness detected at all but the flavor was also bland. Maybe I brewed too hot ? After putting a teaspoon of maple syrup into it the shot came to life very pleasant and drinkable. I also made a cappuccino with it that turned out to be smooth but delicious. My mother liked it too.

mschol17
Posts: 41
Joined: 10 years ago

#12: Post by mschol17 »

I completed the 1.1 to 2.0 upgrade tonight- not overly challenging if you follow OE's videos. Too soon to judge if my alignment is good or not.
I am very excited to not have to shake the grounds out anymore.
Michael Scholten
Grand Rapids, MI

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doublehelix (original poster)
Posts: 470
Joined: 9 years ago

#13: Post by doublehelix (original poster) »

Just completed upgrading my 1.1 -> 2.0. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
Given the kit parts and the really detailed videos, I encountered no mysteries doing the upgrade. Doug's suggested jig set ups really made a difference in ensuring a smooth upgrade experience in ways that made it fun to do.

--One note here: It's really important to remove all of the Loctite on the burr--for this I used a dental scraper. The Loctite residue can be hard to see. You'll know when you've removed all of the Loctite when the burr freely slides onto the new axle--as Doug demonstrated on his video.

I haven't used my Pharos in quite awhile, despite using a lithium drill to obviate hand-cranking because I just got tired of shaking grounds out of the grinder. Hooray for the upgrade-- made some nice coffees today......will now be regularly using my 2.0.....

ritternathan
Posts: 32
Joined: 8 years ago

#14: Post by ritternathan »

I completed the 1.1 to 2.0 upgrade and can also recommend it. Make sure to set aside 30-60 minutes and don't be in a rush to align the grinder or remove the residue of Loctite inside the inner burr. The three videos from OE are detailed enough for most. After completion, I pulled a few shots from the new Pharos on my Elektra Microcasa a leva and am happy with the results.

comat0se
Posts: 15
Joined: 10 years ago

#15: Post by comat0se »

I previously did the 1.0 -> 1.1 upgrade with new upper hopper, metal bolt covers and new lower... I was really pleased with the alignment and performance after I got it all back together. Has anyone taken this upgrade path? Anyone happen to know which upgrade kit I should get 1.0-2.0 or 1.1-2.0? I do know that I have the 20TPI (fine) shaft.

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baldheadracing
Team HB
Posts: 6289
Joined: 9 years ago

#16: Post by baldheadracing replying to comat0se »

1.0 The shaft is the key difference. Early v1 are 13TPI, late v1 are 20TPI, and v1.1's have metric threads (and a step on the shaft so the handle's threads are different from the split collar's threads).
-"Good quality brings happiness as you use it" - Nobuho Miya, Kamasada

ritternathan
Posts: 32
Joined: 8 years ago

#17: Post by ritternathan »

I would just call Orphan Espresso or email them about how to upgrade to a 2.0 Pharos after doing the 1.0 to 1.1 upgrade.

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MNate
Posts: 960
Joined: 8 years ago

#18: Post by MNate »

I wonder if anyone has done some cleaning during the upgrade and what supplies I should have on hand for that? Did you find areas that could use a good clean?

Pequod
Posts: 33
Joined: 7 years ago

#19: Post by Pequod »

I completed my 1.1 -> 2.0 upgrade. All went well except that I discovered that my 1.1 didn't have the nylon washer that goes on the shaft before the locking collar/pointer. Never had any issues with my 1.1, but with the upgrade there is too much of a gap between the burrs even when the lock collar is fully tightened. Can't get an espresso grind.

Can anyone tell me if there's anything special about this washer? Am guessing it's a garden variety nylon washer I can pick up anywhere as long as it has the right size hole in the middle.

cebseb
Posts: 567
Joined: 9 years ago

#20: Post by cebseb replying to Pequod »

I had the same issue. I picked this up from my local home depot.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-Nylo ... /204276106

I/2" nylon washer. Worked perfectly.

Cheers