I upgraded to Pharos 2.0, and for me, it's an essential upgrade. There is no trouble anymore of getting the grounds out (as they come out automatically) as there was with Pharos 1.1. So, I'm very pleased for this grinder now.

I received a 1.1 to 2.0 upgrade kit last week. When tightening the screw I noticed it binding to get it tight enough to lock the collar and it became very difficult to do and undo it. I dabbed a bit of light grease on the screw threads and at the cap end where it interfaces the collar and it is now much easier to lock the collar. When I had the screw out I noticed it looked 'stretched' so may try and find a hardened steel version. A washer at the head end might also help alleviate the situation, tho sourcing one may be a challenge.

Overall I found the upgrade to be well worth it, despite only using the Pharos in stock condition a few times. My only quibble now is working out how to hold onto the thing while grinding. So far using it as a knee grinder has been most successful.

It is likely that the screw should always be the thing to fail, before the threads. I wouldn't get harder screws, just a few of them. That is, if I'm reading what you wrote correctly. I do not own this, I am just reading to make a decision between manual grinders.

I got my 1.1 to 2.0 kit yesterday and it was a relatively straight forward affair. The videos lay out all you need to know but if you're doing this yourself, get some clamps to help with threading the bolts into the bottom burr carrier.

Also, reuse your old 1.1 lower hopper when Doug is demonstrating how to put in the lower burr and axle. He uses a piece of wood with a hole drilled into it in his video but the lower hopper easily doubles this function.

Overall, pretty simple upgrade though I do wish I got a dosing funnel.

themusgrat wrote:It is likely that the screw should always be the thing to fail, before the threads. I wouldn't get harder screws, just a few of them. That is, if I'm reading what you wrote correctly. I do not own this, I am just reading to make a decision between manual grinders.

Understood. Looking at the OP's pics, I would not want to have to try and remove the broken off bit of screw from the collar. My problem, and possibly the OP's, wasn't from over tightening the collar but probable thread galling between the screw and collar, which are both SS. Going to a steel screw may help alleviate that. The screw was starting to bind before I was even close to getting the collar tight, and got worse as it started to clamp. The binding was also apparent while backing the screw out after the collar was loose.

Add thrust bearing set AXK1226, twice AS1226. Best from INA or SKF.

In such case you can have the screw tight, but still you can adjust it by hand and it stays in place even with super light roast.
Should also be easier to turn.
One drawback you will loose some regulation for coarse setting, though I see no reason to go beyond that.

I completed my upgrade today. Mine was a V1.0 Pharos with the coarse thread.
I also did not get the nylon washer.
I followed the videos and I did the upgrade and alignment within a couple of hours.
I also added a nut just below the handle because I liked how Pharos 1 was, having the handle well above the plates.
What I am still missing, is the nut with the E logo sitting on top of the axle. The one I have has the coarse thread which does not match the finer thread of the new axle. I searched at OE e-shop, but I did not find this as an orderable part. It would be good to get it, although this is just for the looks of Pharos.
I am also used in holding the grinder between my knees during grinding.
My first trial ended with ground coffee spilled all over the floor, because the cup did not stand within the plates.
For the second trial, after putting the cup in place, I put a puck of HEETS between the two lower plates. This secured the cup in place and I was able to grind with no problem. So other owners who prefer having Pharos between their knees could give it a try.

cuppajoe wrote:I dabbed a bit of light grease on the screw threads and at the cap end where it interfaces the collar and it is now much easier to lock the collar. When I had the screw out I noticed it looked 'stretched' so may try and find a hardened steel version.

Basic question here, but: what kind of grease do you use on the bolt threads / under the head (of the bolt that goes in the adjustment collar)? I just have Dow 111 for gaskets/o-rings?-- will that work here?

Also -- does anybody know an exact replacement for that screw (not a harder version, just exactly what OE uses)?-- I didn't see if for sale by OE. Thanks!!

EDIT: I found some Lubri-Film at work -- I'll try that!

I think I used 3 in 1 oil.

My collar screw had sheared off and I had to buy a replacement collar. The new one definitely needs lubrication. Not sure why they didn't supply a hardened steel bolt.