Niche Zero grinder - Page 39

Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
Ziv Sade

Postby Ziv Sade » Nov 14, 2018, 11:53 pm

Hi everyone.

Did you try to contact the company regarding the slipage? I am really interested to understand


Postby Bill33525 » Nov 15, 2018, 9:33 am

Here is the response from Niche regarding the slippage:

We have only experienced this problem with a small number with grinders and we are working with the people to solve this problem.
We are doing research to make sure this problem does not happen with future grinders.

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Postby tohenk2 » Nov 15, 2018, 4:26 pm

Could the slippage (also) have anything to do with 50hz/60hz differences that causes different resonances?

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Postby yakster » Nov 15, 2018, 6:08 pm

Doubtful, since the issue has been seen in Europe under 50 Hz usage as well as in the US under 60 Hz usage.

LMWDP # 272


Postby JayBeck » Nov 16, 2018, 12:16 pm

For those who would prefer to grind directly into the PF rather than the cup, can the raised circle be removed or is it all one piece of wood?

I'm wondering if you could place this: in place of the cup and grind directly into the PF.


Postby tegwj » Nov 16, 2018, 12:23 pm

I'll be able to test myself when my NZ arrives. I have the DE PF cradle (the shorter one, for only naked PF) and the separate scale stand which is normally used with their grinder. My guess is there won't be enough clearance for the scale stand and perhaps a bit too much for the naked PF cradle. Perhaps the full-height PF cradle will be the right answer, with or without funnel? So many permutations!


Postby JayBeck » replying to tegwj » Nov 16, 2018, 12:49 pm

Nice. Let me know how it works. Could be a nice match with a black Niche and the Decent cradle. Hopefully enough room for the tall cradle and Decent Funnel.


Postby DaveC » Nov 16, 2018, 1:00 pm

Reluctant to post this, but to add some advice that should help. When going finer, just go finer. When going coarser, go further than you want, say 6 or 8 marks and then go back finer to the point you want. I would say this is good advice for any Niche user, not just the few with a sticking burr assembly.

The only way the top adjustment ring can move round is if there is no real spring pressure on it, the burr itself obviously can't rotate.. The springs are more than strong enough, if they were not, every grinder would have this problem, including every one I tested. This can only happen if the burr assembly catches in the slide (tolerances are quite close) due to a technical issue affecting a very small number of grinders where an easy fix will be available soon....I'm not going to go into details, because it's not my place.

If you think about using the method above, by going past the point you want, it's far more likely all that pressure off the burr will allow it to pop up fine, then by screwing tighter to the grind you want guarantees a burr that is then being forced down onto the springs and experiencing the right pressure as designed. I used to work on precision lathes when I was younger, so the procedure is second nature to me (if you use a precision mechanical lathe, you will know what I mean).

Do not put pads or grips in the top ring or PTFE tape on the threads or anything like that. the grinder is designed carefully to centre the burr as the top ring is turned, it centres and bears down on it to do the adjustment. Pads in these areas (the inner ring press down point), will definitely misalign the top burr. The other bit of advice is to ensure the top black bit on the burr is clean of any silicone lubrication....however a small amount on the slide and the channel for the of the arms of the burr assembly can only help. To lube the slide, use a silicone spray (or a grease quite sparingly) or dry lube, spray on a cotton bud and wipe the bud around the slide and the channel for the arms...don't spray in there directly and don't use too much silicone. Also don't go too far down the slide, you don't want to get it near the grinding zone.
★ Helpful

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Postby tohenk2 » Nov 17, 2018, 4:33 pm

JayBeck wrote:For those who would prefer to grind directly into the PF rather than the cup, can the raised circle be removed or is it all one piece of wood?

I'm wondering if you could place this: in place of the cup and grind directly into the PF.

The raised circle is a loose piece of wood and can quite easily be removed just by lifting it up. (It does not slide because it is over a small bolt that holds the other piece of wood in place.)

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Postby randyr5 » Nov 21, 2018, 5:16 pm

renatoa wrote:Just as a reference, there are Kony burrs code 9M007/K, that cost 50 Euro, and code M-FMA00191C that cost 127 Euro. Incl VAT
Both made by Mazzer ;)

The 9M007/K is an aftermarket burr, made in Italy. Not OEM