Niche Zero grinder - Page 296

Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
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Jeff
Team HB

#2951: Post by Jeff »

Those tools, along with spinny-spinny tools, only groom the top of the puck. While they may make your puck look good and ensure that you don't lose technical points in barista competitions, they don't do much for in-cup quality over other leveling techniques. Most importantly, they fail to address non-uniformity in the bulk of the puck. That non-uniformity has been shown to be better addressed with "WDT" tools comprised of multiple, fine needles. Current practice is 0.3 to 0.4 mm acupuncture needles. Then again, if you're pulling espresso in the style the last century, that is so easy to extract that you might as well just use a doser grinder and a finger strike.

MCal2003

#2952: Post by MCal2003 »

Jeff wrote:With a Niche you can grind directly into a bare basket and funnel. That's my preferred approach when I can get the basket under the chute.

Never used a dosing/grind cup until purchasing the NZ. Find it fits my NZ and now MCal workflow. Grind, dump, WDT, leveling tamp, load and lock, pull, stir, drink. While waiting for the pf pressure to drop, grind. Less counter mess. White (early 90's era) countertops. Usually end up with some fine grinds on the counter when direct dosing. Also notice more static clinging grinds on the funnel. Zero on the funnel when using the cup. I WDT with the funnel on. Keeps the counter neater. The fluffy grounds the NZ creates results in a overfill mound. WDT levels and settles the mound. Would probably loose more grounds spilling over the filter lip without the funnel than the NZ retains.

Either direct or dump from cup. Very few grinders don't benefit from proper WDT.
LMWDP #151

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cafeIKE
Supporter ❤

#2953: Post by cafeIKE »

Please 'splain how stirring grounds improves uniformity, not distribution. If one stirs a can of nuts & bits, the big parts move to the top. Needles leave furrows which probably don't collapse uniformly. [Admittedly, coffee ain't nuts... but we are :roll: ]

Note these comments are for the Koonan funnel and the cafeIKE spreaders. Other spreading tools were not tried.
Judicious PF movement under the spout whilst grinding results in minimal redistribution required. The spreader simply moves the top of minimally disturbed coffee mound, filling the low spots. IMO, the various blades produce more consistent shots than Stockfleth or WDT for any dose/grind combination.

In order:
Ground - Spread
Settle - Tamp
Cup - Spreaders




PIXIllate
Supporter ♡

#2954: Post by PIXIllate »

Jeff is correct. Regardless of grinder a Levercraft style WDT tool is going to produce a puck with superior uniformity and integrity.

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cafeIKE
Supporter ❤

#2955: Post by cafeIKE »

We're from Missouri. Show us.

Massaging may improve some distributions, but until unspent pucks are dissected, any claim that a particular method produces superior uniformity and integrity is speculative.

Whether any distribution method improves, rather than just changes, flavor is totally subjective.

Drop by with your toys and we'll see who is on first :wink:

Kinukcafe

#2956: Post by Kinukcafe »

New user of NZ here. I seasoned it with 1kg beans. While the favour is good, I found that compared to my previous hand grinder it has significantly more fine grounds which pass through the puck and PF an resulted in the coffee drink. Is it normal and will continue over time? Anything I can an do to improve it? FYI my grind setting is currently at 18 and I am grinding medium dark roast. Thanks.

MCal2003

#2957: Post by MCal2003 »

When new my NZ setting was similar to yours for FC to FC+ roasts. With both espresso machines used the settings ended up being finer after my first tear apart cleaning. Just guessing my feel for zero point is different than the factory person. Either way. Zero fines in the cup. Actually don't ever remember fines in the cup. Have been pulling shots since '81on vibe pumpers or manual levers. Maybe they are hidden under the remanent crema clinging to the cup?

Sorry no help. Have you just dumped your grinds on white sheet of paper to look for real obvious bias to ultra fine grinds?
LMWDP #151

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randyr5

#2958: Post by randyr5 »

Has anyone here permanently by-passed the red lid safety switch? If so, was it an easy fix?

MCal2003

#2959: Post by MCal2003 replying to randyr5 »

Not me. Grinder still under warranty. Guessing it would just require a bit of soldering or crimp fitting to bypass the contact switch. Have only every replaced one momentary contact switch. Simple if you have basic soldering skills.

Bit different than all the other electric grinders used and owned. That is, the red safety switch. Initially thought it was not the best design. Now I actually like it. Just using the lid as an on/off switch. Only flip the real on/off switch at the beginning and end of a session.
LMWDP #151

User avatar
barNone

#2960: Post by barNone »

randyr5 wrote:Has anyone here permanently by-passed the red lid safety switch? If so, was it an easy fix?
I have, though I wouldn't call it a true bypass or permanent. I cut 1/4" off an old plastic drinking straw, cut down the side and wrap it around the post of the red button inside the top housing; this keeps the button always pressed. The straw wraps around itself so it stays in place well enough, plus it's easy enough to remove with tweezers.