Mazzer Super Jolly Alignment Sanding

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#1: Post by lessthanjoey »

I'm slowly working on incremental improvements to my trusty Super Jolly and have decided that it needs to be aligned better. I already have SSP burrs and Daniel Wong's doserless mod (, and are getting very low retention levels with some air puffing so alignment seems like the next step. I have one clear high spot, then another couple medium spots. I struggled to get particularly great results trying to shim with foil and found this video here:, specifically on the SJ as well as Rao/Hale's grinder alignment page here: ... ur-grinder so wanted to try the sandpaper method. It seems intuitively far superiod although the execution has proved difficult! So, below is a couple of illustrations of my woes so far as well as a call out to see if anyone else has successfully battled this project.

Super Jolly burrs sit on an outer ring, the back side of the burrs are not flat. You can see in the following pic of the upper burr carrier that the center area where the screws are is higher than the outer ring, but the outer ring is what we want to sand:

That seems to make it very important to cut out the inner ring of sandpaper but I've struggled mightily to do so, at least when using double-sided tape. You can see in the following awful photo how much I butchered this on my first try, but it seems like I need to clear as much as possible of the inner area or I'll spend a long time sanding the lip of the carrier rather than the mating surface:

So the first question is, has anyone come up with an easy way to do this? I think spray adhesive will be easier than double-sided tape just because it's less to cut through.

After that, we go back to mounting for the sanding. The youtube video seems to suggest floating the screws in between the taped burrs and sitting them in the screw slots but this seems very problematic for planarity of the level we're interested in. It just seems wrong to me, but I could be misunderstanding. Has anyone figured out a reasonable way to tape the burrs together after screwing in the lower burr? It's extremely tight but maybe? I could get some masking tape on the edge, or alternately like I think the pictures on Rao's site suggest, I could use double-sided tape between the burrs? For sanding the grind chamber / lower carrier I think this is more straightforward - I would screw the burr into the upper carrier and then tape the lower burr on.


#2: Post by unkidan »

I've done this entire process multiple times on my SJ. You can DM me if you'd like some tips. On the go right now unfortunately.

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#3: Post by jjk232 »

Would be great to post publicly, I'd also like to see as I have a SJ with ssp burrs too.


#4: Post by unkidan »

Perhaps I'll do a new school video demoing the process that is a bit easier to follow than some of the other available resources

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#5: Post by pizzaman383 »

What is being sanded and why?
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#6: Post by LObin »

unkidan wrote:Perhaps I'll do a new school video demoing the process that is a bit easier to follow than some of the other available resources
Please do!
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#7: Post by quamau »

I am too waiting eagerly for further information on this!


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#8: Post by pcofftenyo »

pizzaman383 wrote:What is being sanded and why?
I'm guessing that the burr carriers are being sanded flat due to height irregularities. This will allow burr grinding surfaces to have closer tolerances.

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#9: Post by Bluecold »

Before you're going to 'fix' your grinder, make sure
- the carrier motion does not change the run-out and parallelism of the moving burr
- unloaded alignment matches alignment when grinding
- mounting the moving burr doesn't distort the carrier
- any temporary fixation you're planning on using doesn't alter alignment.

If you can't ensure all of, please stop, you'll just make it worse.
I've never seen real measurements on burr alignment before and after sanding, and I remain highly highly sceptical. Around here, people have a tendency to talk about microns, without measuring microns... or anything at all really.
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