caeffe wrote:BTW, this method also applies to the Major (I've got one) and possibly the Super Jolly (can't say for sure since I don't have one). Wire colors may be different though, on my Major the wires were white.

Great helpful thread. Just started working on 1 of 3 used Major Auto's. For now plan to run them plugged into external timers. On my 1st one after removing and jumping the doser full switch at the block, without jumping the doser switch (just removed) would not turn on. Jumped the doser switch positions at the block which also has leads from the man power switch and bingo, better than I'd hoped. Now instead of switch behaving Off, On and Start, the middle On position behaves as simply On with no need for momentary Start, which is perfect for plugging into external timer always leaving switch On. Or manual On/Off of course. Thought it was going to be more of a re-wiring challenge getting the power switch to function simply On/Off. Cool.

Now the hard part, sanding etc. for painting.

And the harder part, deciding what color to paint the grinders!

eastpresso wrote: 1. doser flap switch
2. doser star switch
3. hopper switch

Starting with the last one, jump the hopper switch if you remove it. This allows you to start and run the grinder regardless of whether or not the hopper is in place. Downside is that you need to be paying attention, or you may get popcorning all over your kitchen. The usual caveat about sticking parts and tools into the maw of a powerful machine apply here. Darwin was right, quit testing him...

The second, or lower microswitch, gives you a few options. If you jump it, 'On' makes your motor turn. If you don't, your grinder will work a bit like your car. Turn the key to 'On' and nothing happens. Turn it to 'Start' and it starts, and the switch automatically reverts to the 'On' position and runs till you turn it to 'Off'.

The first, or upper microswitch, should get jumped.