Mazzer auto lower microswitch wiring question
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: 17 years ago
Hi,
I am refurbing my 90s era Mazzer Major Automatic, and I pulled out the wire connectors to the microswitch before I was able to see that there are three connectors but two wires. None of the wiring diagrams on this awesome board or anywhere else on the web shows which wire goes where. Any suggestions or pics? Thanks in advance,
Obsesso
I am refurbing my 90s era Mazzer Major Automatic, and I pulled out the wire connectors to the microswitch before I was able to see that there are three connectors but two wires. None of the wiring diagrams on this awesome board or anywhere else on the web shows which wire goes where. Any suggestions or pics? Thanks in advance,
Obsesso
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- Team HB
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The 3 pins are common, normally open and normally closed. One wire goes to common, I'd guess the other one goes to normally closed. But since I don't know what the switch does, I'm just guessing. If the grinder is supposed to grind when it's pressed, then it likely goes to normally open, if it grinds when it's released, then I would guess normally closed would be called for.
I'd guess hooking it wrong just means it will not fill and if you make it fill it might not stop.
Ira
I'd guess hooking it wrong just means it will not fill and if you make it fill it might not stop.
Ira
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: 17 years ago
I believe it's to start, the second microswitch at the top of the hopper is to stop, I certainly can just experiment, but I"m not electrically savvy and was worried I'd fry something.
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I did this on Major #1. I'd happily open it up and do a wiring diagram for you, but it's on loan to my bro-in-law.
I wired in a contact switch I bought from Espresso Parts. It was about $9 as I recall. A contact switch is "on" when you press it.
This particular Mazzer came with a three position switch, which was off/on and start - like this one: https://www.espressoparts.com/mazzer-on ... wer-switch I could have bought a standard Mazzer on/off switch, but I never spent the $60-ish dollars because this works.
I used an excellent wiring diagram of a Major here, posted quite a few years ago, to do this.
Mazzer Major (on/off) electronics. And
Need Mazzer Major electrical help (older model)
I just took the hot lead to the three position switch, and put the contact switch in the middle of that lead. Super clean and not scary. The only twist is you need to rotate the on/off switch to the Start, (aka 3rd) position, then the contact switch is operable.
I'm sure the Google search page of this web site will take you to it.
Lastly, remember the hopper throat has to be in place when you test what you've done. It has a safety switch that prevents the machine from running when it is removed. I was certain I'd done things correctly, but the machine wasn't working - I'd taken off the hopper because the machine was on its side. It's been too long for me to remember how long I was stuck on this wee point, but it was too long and probably the most frustrating point of the whole project.
I wired in a contact switch I bought from Espresso Parts. It was about $9 as I recall. A contact switch is "on" when you press it.
This particular Mazzer came with a three position switch, which was off/on and start - like this one: https://www.espressoparts.com/mazzer-on ... wer-switch I could have bought a standard Mazzer on/off switch, but I never spent the $60-ish dollars because this works.
I used an excellent wiring diagram of a Major here, posted quite a few years ago, to do this.
Mazzer Major (on/off) electronics. And
Need Mazzer Major electrical help (older model)
I just took the hot lead to the three position switch, and put the contact switch in the middle of that lead. Super clean and not scary. The only twist is you need to rotate the on/off switch to the Start, (aka 3rd) position, then the contact switch is operable.
I'm sure the Google search page of this web site will take you to it.
Lastly, remember the hopper throat has to be in place when you test what you've done. It has a safety switch that prevents the machine from running when it is removed. I was certain I'd done things correctly, but the machine wasn't working - I'd taken off the hopper because the machine was on its side. It's been too long for me to remember how long I was stuck on this wee point, but it was too long and probably the most frustrating point of the whole project.
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: 17 years ago
to answer my question, I don't think it matters where the wire plugs in for it to work right.