I think a simple 90 degree cord will solve most of the concerns with the control box. The cord should exit the machine towards its destination. If the box is on its side, a straight cord makes sense. If it is mounted vertical, a tight 90 to point it out the back would be preferable and is available for roughly the same cost as a standard cord.

Cheers!

- Jake

DucaiMann wrote:The bottom burr has a runout of less than .05mm, which is less than .001". Depending on who the MFG is, the burrs should be perfect from the factory.

Which is why I pointed it out. What's the point of allowing adjustment of alignment if everything starts out perfect? All it should means is there are an infinite number of ways to make it worse.

Ira

You don't need to align the fixed burr if the piece it sits on is to low enough tolerances. The whole Idea to shim burrs is just a fundamental bad idea, I have seen burrs with small dents at the back after shimmering, so something that should be avoided.

I think shimmering this way is a better solution, but in a perfect world it should only be necessary with low tolerances burrs, burrs with higher tolerances such as SSP should not be necessary to shim.

But deciding to launch this type of grinder in this price range obviously will put some restraint on how good aligned the grinder can be, especially if it is mass produced. This is a way to offer the possibility for better alignment. If they wanted to offer Titus or Kafatek alignment it would be allot more expensive, I fully understand the decision.

ira wrote:Which is why I pointed it out. What's the point of allowing adjustment of alignment if everything starts out perfect? All it should means is there are an infinite number of ways to make it worse.

Ira

Well...even .05mm off still isn't perfect. Put 12 parts together with that tolerance spec and you might have to make some very tiny adjustments, no?

Should you want to triple (or more) the cost of the grinder and get it within nano specifications....then this make sense, right?

Jake_G wrote:I think a simple 90 degree cord will solve most of the concerns with the control box. The cord should exit the machine towards its destination. If the box is on its side, a straight cord makes sense.

I thought about suggesting that, but recessed cords allow getting closer to the wall and don't care about alignment. I've seen it a few time and it always impresses me that they considered how it would fit on my counter. Can you imagine a flat screen TV with the cord sticking straight out the back so it couldn't sit flat against the wall? On of the first things I did when i got my Monolith was order a 2 foot right angle plug so it didn't sit 4" from the wall and I didn't have 4 feet of cord sitting on the counter.

I'm sure the grinder will grind essentially as good as anything, these questions are about how you feel after you've lived with it awhile. No one will care about the cord the first day, but after spilling something on the top and having the pull the cord to get whatever out of the upward facing socket a few times, it will get old. There's a reason ATT installed phone jacks facing down or sideways and never facing up.

Ira

Jake_G wrote:I think a simple 90 degree cord will solve most of the concerns with the control box. The cord should exit the machine towards its destination. If the box is on its side, a straight cord makes sense. If it is mounted vertical, a tight 90 to point it out the back would be preferable and is available for roughly the same cost as a standard cord.

Cheers!

- Jake

Yep, a simple change. One we can certainly make!

DucaiMann wrote:Well...even .05mm off still isn't perfect. Put 12 parts together with that tolerance spec and you might have to make some very tiny adjustments, no?

But, you can only align 1/2 of the problem. Admittedly, it's the half that's more likely to have a problem, but part of what enables alignment is also part of what means it might be more likely to need alignment. Look, I'm impressed with what you've done, it's clever, and you made a lot of really interesting choices. All I want to do is make you question everything as in the end, that what will encourage you to make it as good as possible. I always find it depressing to use something that was clearly designed by someone who was given some really good rules, but never used the result, so I try to be the devils advocate.

Not to say I'm right or wrong. I designed a conical grinder to compete in this arena 8 years ago but never built one. I still think it has some really good ideas I've never seen implemented. So I've been thinking about grinders for a really long time, always assuming that it would be possible to rely on the burrs to be correct. Conceptually you're grinder should be perfectly aligned if you just bolted it together. None of the setups require moving the parts between the 2 cuts that need to be at right angles. Then it's up to the machine and the machine operator to make sure the tools are sharp and the temperatures are stable. I don't think I'm wrong, though if I am I would think you need to consider how to make it that way.

Ira

ira wrote:Look, I'm impressed with what you've done, it's clever, and you made a lot of really interesting choices. All I want to do is make you question everything as in the end, that what will encourage you to make it as good as possible.

Ira

I am grateful for the discussion! I ask questions to learn. I don't know everything, and I definitely know that others know a heck of a lot more than I do!

I also want to have the best possible product. If there is room for improvement, we will learn and grow. With that being said, the ultra grinder is excellent as is.

I don't understand the design of the giant control box?
The Kafatek, Molar grinders with big burr sets and adjustable RPM don't require that large motors.