HG1 burr alignment... from the source themselves
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There have been plenty of posts here and there over the years about the alignment process for the HG1. But little in that regard from LWW or the original folks. Now, just a week ago or so, LWW stealthily put up an actual video. And it looks great. Stunningly, it's their first and only one on their "Weber Workshops" Youtube channel. Enjoy:
Mine is a 2014 model. The video is for a "~2017" model. They confirmed that the same alignment technique works for the 2014 models as well.
-Peter
-Peter
LMWDP #553
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Thanks for sharing this. Although, I was hoping for some secret trick, unfortunately, the technique is similar to what many HG-1 customers have discovered on their own.
I apologise in advance for sullying your helpful post, with my bad experience, but I feel that it is important to share it.
I've had the HG-1 for a few years, and have stopped using, due largely in part that it's so difficult to align. I've tried the light gap technique, I've tried grinding onto a piece of paper to get a level and consistent 'donut' of grounds; I've even go so-far as to use a set of feeler gauges. It's a fools errand, no matter, and the grind still has a lot of boulders.
I apologise in advance for sullying your helpful post, with my bad experience, but I feel that it is important to share it.
I've had the HG-1 for a few years, and have stopped using, due largely in part that it's so difficult to align. I've tried the light gap technique, I've tried grinding onto a piece of paper to get a level and consistent 'donut' of grounds; I've even go so-far as to use a set of feeler gauges. It's a fools errand, no matter, and the grind still has a lot of boulders.
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One thing I noticed is that... it says "Mazzer" on those burrs... yet my 2nd hand HG-1 (2012 model) doesn't have any branding or anything at all on bottom. Are they no longer "bead blasting" them? Or what
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This video has been online for a while. However it was initially shared through a Dropbox link. I guess they finally decided to upload it on YT.
I've used this technique to improve my grinder's alignment and it worked pretty well. The trickiest part is to tighten the bolts at the end without srcewing up the alignment.
Although this technique might not be up to Frank's standards (the Titus guy) it still improved things noticeably on my HG-1.
I've used this technique to improve my grinder's alignment and it worked pretty well. The trickiest part is to tighten the bolts at the end without srcewing up the alignment.
Although this technique might not be up to Frank's standards (the Titus guy) it still improved things noticeably on my HG-1.
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Uhg...
I am not only blind (at writting my post - since this has been there since morning) but customer care dissapointed with Lyn in how they have replied to my issue : /
Thanx pcrussell50 !! for it - will let you know how it turns out for me.
I am not only blind (at writting my post - since this has been there since morning) but customer care dissapointed with Lyn in how they have replied to my issue : /
Thanx pcrussell50 !! for it - will let you know how it turns out for me.
- drgary
- Team HB
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I found it easier to loosen screws for the first adjustment enough that I could move the burr into place by hand. For both adjustments I went gingerly in retightening the screws doing each a little bit before securing them both more firmly. For the second adjustment rather than follow exactly the amount of turn recommended for loosening the burrs, I loosened it enough that I could clearly see the thin light gaps around the burr.
Gary
LMWDP#308
What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!
LMWDP#308
What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!
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I'll add a couple of points from memory as my son has had my HG1 for a couple of years. My Monolith Flat doesn't have this problem.
I had the original version which didn't have the "Burr Shelf Screws".
The first point to note is that if you remove the burrs, the burrs will sit inside each other so that the bottom of the burrs are absolutely level. This is what we are trying to achieve after alignment. This will only be achieved with perfect alignment when the burrs are just touching.
With the burr shelf screws slightly loose, the shelf can slightly move sideways, up and down and obviously then twist. This makes the adjustment much harder. In and out movement is achieved with shims if required.
Tightening the lock screw will also cause a slight inwards movement of the burrs.
Good alignment can be achieved but its rather slow and painful using the techniques in the video.
Greg
I had the original version which didn't have the "Burr Shelf Screws".
The first point to note is that if you remove the burrs, the burrs will sit inside each other so that the bottom of the burrs are absolutely level. This is what we are trying to achieve after alignment. This will only be achieved with perfect alignment when the burrs are just touching.
With the burr shelf screws slightly loose, the shelf can slightly move sideways, up and down and obviously then twist. This makes the adjustment much harder. In and out movement is achieved with shims if required.
Tightening the lock screw will also cause a slight inwards movement of the burrs.
Good alignment can be achieved but its rather slow and painful using the techniques in the video.
Greg
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Thanks for posting the video. It would be nice if they gave a more precise method than just feeling and eyeballing.
Rocky
Rocky
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There remains some debate about which order of magnitude of alignment is required for conceals, versus flats. Flats seem to be much more sensitive to alignment than conicals, at least according to some accounts.
In the case of the HG-1, some people were getting visibly poor quality grinds ugly, channelly pours , and bad taste, until they aligned their HG-1's. This alignment process fixed that for a lot of HG-1 owners. So, how precise does it have to be, if you can get good looking pours and good tasted in the cup?
Same question applies to flats... If your flat is aligned enough to have good taste and good looking pours, how much more improvement can you expect with further alignment?
-Peter
In the case of the HG-1, some people were getting visibly poor quality grinds ugly, channelly pours , and bad taste, until they aligned their HG-1's. This alignment process fixed that for a lot of HG-1 owners. So, how precise does it have to be, if you can get good looking pours and good tasted in the cup?
Same question applies to flats... If your flat is aligned enough to have good taste and good looking pours, how much more improvement can you expect with further alignment?
-Peter
LMWDP #553