Grinder Project - Update - Page 3
- MB (original poster)
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- Sponsor
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Looks great, what countertop material is that, and what tools are required to work it? Does it feel more like a stone or tile? Or wood?
I like the look so far!
I like the look so far!
- MB (original poster)
- Posts: 792
- Joined: 10 years ago
Thanks! The counter top material is HI-MACS, but there are other brands that are similar. It feels more like stone than tile. Kind of an acrylic-stone combo. Google "solid surface partial sheets" to find a source.
This stuff is heavy, but fairly easy to cut on a table saw and router with a sharp blade or bit. Works best with a slow feed rate. I also am using a drill press for straight holes, although a jig might be sufficient since the really critical holes for this project are in the machined aluminum.
Thick or slow set CA glue works to attach layers to each other and also for attaching the routed corner joints of the tower. You can use screws in pre-drilled holes for connecting pieces. I did that for the removable top as well as attaching the base and top to the body. You can tap holes for machine screws or use zip screws if the holes are the right size. (I tested this out on scrap pieces, making the top layer hole just wide enough to let the screw slip through with enough force, and small enough to grab in the bottom layer.)
This stuff is heavy, but fairly easy to cut on a table saw and router with a sharp blade or bit. Works best with a slow feed rate. I also am using a drill press for straight holes, although a jig might be sufficient since the really critical holes for this project are in the machined aluminum.
Thick or slow set CA glue works to attach layers to each other and also for attaching the routed corner joints of the tower. You can use screws in pre-drilled holes for connecting pieces. I did that for the removable top as well as attaching the base and top to the body. You can tap holes for machine screws or use zip screws if the holes are the right size. (I tested this out on scrap pieces, making the top layer hole just wide enough to let the screw slip through with enough force, and small enough to grab in the bottom layer.)
LMWDP #472
- MB (original poster)
- Posts: 792
- Joined: 10 years ago
- MB (original poster)
- Posts: 792
- Joined: 10 years ago
Ah, the ups and downs of DIY. I tried to drill this straight. I did it clamped to the aluminum plates to start the holes in the exact place. Unfortunately, the clamps meant having to drill at the edge of the drill press table which apparently flexed. You can see the bottom (at the top since this is flipped over) isn't flush with the aluminum.
I could make another one, try a different method and hope for better luck, but I'm leaning towards drilling larger holes and filling them with JB Weld around the screws with everything aligned while it cures. It would be a little bit tricky to make sure the bottom plate could be removed.
I could make another one, try a different method and hope for better luck, but I'm leaning towards drilling larger holes and filling them with JB Weld around the screws with everything aligned while it cures. It would be a little bit tricky to make sure the bottom plate could be removed.
LMWDP #472
- MB (original poster)
- Posts: 792
- Joined: 10 years ago
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This is a remarkably ingenious idea, I'm enjoying watching it come together. I'm going to send you a PM about JB Weld so I don't clutter up your grinder thread, I hope that's ok.MB wrote:Whew! Back on track. I drilled larger holes and filled them with the JB Weld. It made the pieces was super easy to align.
- MB (original poster)
- Posts: 792
- Joined: 10 years ago