Smihalik wrote:If you pm me your email I can send a PayPal invoice. I ordered a few extras if anyone else wants it. They should be ready to ship in about 20 days.

Any more of these left?

Can anybody provide feedback as to which of all the 3D printed mods I should be using?

Ordered a DF64 which is coming in several weeks, I understand the clump crusher design may have been improved so potentially no need to print anything for the exit chute?

Is the 10 degree base worth it?

I'm going with the following:
- grind indicator https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4887874
- portafilter fork adjustment (higher) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4867751
- anti popcorn https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4906179

Now the wait begins for the unit to arrive..!

Pick which ever grind indicator works for you aesthetically. I have one of the early ones with the screw at the rear to tighten it, functionally identical to the one you posted but slightly differenet visually.

I just use my portafilter funnel and I see no splash of overflow of grinds.

I have an anti popcorn funnel that looks to be identical to the one you linked. It seems to work well, but I do, occasionally have to to take the top off and nudge the beens into the grind chamber. It just takes a tap, they're not stuck, just bridged in the opening.

I never tried or see the need for the angled base.

heytchap wrote:Like this:


Am I adding to the wrong place? My understanding was that this is _the_ place. No?

Hi @heytchap

really late ping ... but - can you elaborate a bit on the process of removing and re-installing the lower burr carrier? Especially: Did you have any problems getting the carrier itself "aligned" on the motors shaft? Is there a risk in not getting it back on without wobble in the construction? Also ... how did you "stop" the shaft from rotating while unscrewing it? Wood or wrapped screwdriver through chute?

Thanks a bunch~,
-NebuK

I'd use a chopstick

@NebuK I used a ratchet and socket on the axle bolt. It prevents the whole burr carrier from spinning while removing the burr screws.

Forgive the long story. I promise it has a point.

I've been noticing that if I switch between grind sizes that as much as 0.5 g can be transferred between grinds. Usually this shows as a decrease of as much as a half gram if I go from V60 to espresso and a gain of as much as a half gram going from espresso to V60 (sticking with the same grind size decreases this variance to 0.1 g or less). I've also thought that both might have more fines than I'd like. I saw this mostly on the V60 where the drawdown time could be 20 s longer than a comparable grind from my conical hand grinder.

Then I saw a nice review from Lifestyle Lab that was refreshingly fair, but also included a quick mod he did on the clump crusher. Opening it up he noticed that he had the revised single-sheet silicone crusher (like mine), but it retained a fair amount of grounds that were presumably reground quite fine. He opted to trim off every other triangle in the clump crusher and seemed to have solved his retainage and fines problems. Being the coward I am and too scared to ruin my OEM crusher, but a coward with an Amazon account and an Xacto knife, I decided to make my own clump crusher instead.

My estimation is that silicone sheet itself isn't an issue, and it actually does a good job of fluffing the grind and reducing static. But the geometry means that the "teeth" are short and less flexible. Opening up my DF64 confirmed this on my machine, with a good amount of fines impacted behind the screen.

Here's the clump crusher...


And yes, quite a few fines impacted behind it, right where the teeth are fattest at the base.


I've also heard good things about the Mythos clump crusher. But the plastic seemed kind of thin and flimsy. I also toyed with 3D printing a clump crusher screen, but I'm not confident that PLA would work in the long run with the heat and abrasion of the grind path. But why reinvent the wheel here? Let's use silicone.

Amazon sells silicone sheet that's the same spec as the OEM clump crusher. This specific sheet is 1.6 mm thick like OEM and has great heat and abrasion resistance (people use it for pressure cooker gaskets) and is food safe.

Taking cues from the Mythos crusher, I'm thinking longer thinner teeth will provide less resistance but still may act to crush clumps and reduce static. After some work with a caliper and Xacto knife, I got something pretty respectable.


You can see here that with a little care, it fits the chute exactly. Not bad for some late night work!


And you can see that it already has much more flexibility than the OEM crusher.


And here's a pic in situ.


Will this be better or worse than OEM? No idea, but I'm hopeful. I'll give it a month and report back.

I'm using 0.3mm teflon sheet and it's magnificent

LOL I have the teflon but am waiting for a replacement DF-64... hopefully next week. Did you cut the teflon like the original or did you cut it like the Mythos?

Mythos style