Thanks for the description of how to install spacers, as well as the links provided. I've placed an order. Much appreciated!

Hi,

I am sorry that I don't want to read through more than 100 pages. Do you mind giving me an answer to my questions?

I am deciding between a Lagom P64 and the standard DF64 (no DF64P/E):

1. How much of a difference does the high RPM of the DF64 vs the (potentially) slower RPM of the P64 make (regarding fines) for medium to dark roasted espress?

2. Is there an (easy) way how to reduce the RPM of the DF64?

3. How difficult is the alignment process on the DF64?

4. Are DF64s bad aligned in general?

5. Which kind of burrs would you recommend for medium to dark roasts with the potential of filter coffee later on?

Thank you so much

y33brzk wrote:2. Is there an (easy) way how to reduce the RPM of the DF64?

You need a costly VFD, so you'd be better off buying a different grinder like the DF64V if you want some RPM control.

y33brzk wrote:5. Which kind of burrs would you recommend for medium to dark roasts with the potential of filter coffee later on?

I'd recommend SSP cast burrs for medium/dark espresso if great filter is also a consideration.

y33brzk wrote: 3. How difficult is the alignment process on the DF64?

4. Are DF64s bad aligned in general?

5. Which kind of burrs would you recommend for medium to dark roasts with the potential of filter coffee later on?

3. Not very much, it just takes a bit oft time

4. No, mine was okay (60 % with Marker test) after figuring out the best oft the 3 positions with the upper Burr carrier.

5. Difficult question. My Lab Sweets (refurbished) cannot grind fine enough for anything other than Turbo Shots, the multipurpose I had before weren't that great with darker Roasts, especially bad with (oat)-milk drinks. If you lean more on the espresso side and you are okay with "good" filter coffee (so not seeking for the absolute best), I would go with the stock burrs.

Just received my 2014 Gaggia Classic and DF64 V4 today.
Have been doing pour overs and want to delve into new territory.

First thing I did was to remove the blue vinyl from the DF64 and installed a matt black vinyl.




I have now been trying to align the burrs for a while, and can't get the top set to make sense, how would I go about adjusting this?
I tried shimming to increase the height where the burrs weren't touching, but I cant seem to figure out how to tackle a pattern like this. It seems like it is split in two.





On another note, I designed and 3D printed spacers for the bottom two screws, this gives the needed 18mm, and sits snuggly around the screw tower and the screw beside it.





Is this still of interest? I could upload it to Printables if people want it.

DF64 has many different burr and burr carrier possible orientations. The first time around it's worth trying them out and figure out which combination gives you the best marker rub. You can then use a sharpie to mark the carriers.

I had really weird marker results at first until I realized that the slightest pressure on the adjustment collar or top burr carrier messed up the test. Make sure you don't touch anything other than the central shaft when spinning the burr.

Wow, I'm very interested in these 3d spacers. Please upload tem for us

If possible, can you share how to install them with pictures?

Thank you in advance

jacobtc wrote: ...but I cant seem to figure out how to tackle a pattern like this...

Perhaps that burr rubbing pattern is a non-problem to begin with?

In the real world there is no such thing as perfect parallelism, burrs are not perfectly parallel to each other no matter how close you can get in alignment. There is always tolerance in play, not only of the assembly, bearing, and supporting system, but also the dimensional tolerance of the burrs themselves. When burrs are brought close together and start to come into contact, we can expect one part along the perimeter makes contact first. While In your case you had two opposing parts that got that first contact. I'd say you are already close to perfect alignment as can be.

If you want 100% erasing pattern, it probably would take turning down the grind size collar a bit more, and that's it. The system and the components are not perfectly rigid objects, they will "give" under pressure and take in the tolerances.

The grind size collar has 1.25mm thread pitch, A one full turn of the collar will move the burrs adjoining or apart by 1.25mm. One division in the dial scale would be equivalent to about 0.01mm. If you can get close to 100% erasing by taking in the grind size by no more than two divisions (0.02mm), that would be proof of perfect alignment, at least to me.