G-IOTA / DF64 espresso grinder - Page 148
-
austted
I do not own one of these grinders but am happy to offer a possible cause and solution.
There is a parts diagram at G-IOTA / DF64 espresso grinder
It suggests there should be a spring washer (part 14) under the lower burr carrier which would prevent the lower burr carrier rubbing against the bottom plate. Perhaps this was left out when the grinder was last reassembled after cleaning.
There is a parts diagram at G-IOTA / DF64 espresso grinder
It suggests there should be a spring washer (part 14) under the lower burr carrier which would prevent the lower burr carrier rubbing against the bottom plate. Perhaps this was left out when the grinder was last reassembled after cleaning.
-
STruple
Thank you for the diagram, Ted!
Seems to me that spring washer (pt 14) rests between upper bearing (pt 15) and an underside of the grind chamber in the body (pt 11), which is the opposite side of the grind chamber than where the carrier (pt 10) is. I haven't disassembled it that far.
Since we can talk in concrete parts now, the previously poorly described comment goes something like this: When the flange (pt 18) is fastened to the base (pt 22), they are not in contact with each other and the bolts have exposed threads. Tt seems that by overtightening this connection (while base is already in contact with the body), the flange might move downwards. Coming back to the spring washer (pt 14), by moving the flange (which holds the bearing which holds the rotor) It might gave enough space for the spring washer to push the whole assembly down enough for this to occur?
Similar behavior on a lower scale is nicely described by canatto in the post #1046 (G-IOTA / DF64 espresso grinder), few comments below your link.
It's a shame the diagram is all over the place with majority of the fasteners missing. Still very helpful, though!
Seems to me that spring washer (pt 14) rests between upper bearing (pt 15) and an underside of the grind chamber in the body (pt 11), which is the opposite side of the grind chamber than where the carrier (pt 10) is. I haven't disassembled it that far.
Since we can talk in concrete parts now, the previously poorly described comment goes something like this: When the flange (pt 18) is fastened to the base (pt 22), they are not in contact with each other and the bolts have exposed threads. Tt seems that by overtightening this connection (while base is already in contact with the body), the flange might move downwards. Coming back to the spring washer (pt 14), by moving the flange (which holds the bearing which holds the rotor) It might gave enough space for the spring washer to push the whole assembly down enough for this to occur?
Similar behavior on a lower scale is nicely described by canatto in the post #1046 (G-IOTA / DF64 espresso grinder), few comments below your link.
It's a shame the diagram is all over the place with majority of the fasteners missing. Still very helpful, though!
-
austted
My apologies for misreading the diagram.
Perhaps an extra thin flat washer under the lower burr carrier might solve your problem?
Perhaps an extra thin flat washer under the lower burr carrier might solve your problem?
-
STruple
Sorry for the delay, life happened. Washer would just move the contact point from the outside diameter to an inner diameter, unfortunately. I gave the flange (18) a few fairly light taps with a wooden block and a hammer (which probably did next to nothing as I did not want to break the casted flange) and sanded the contact point on the bottom carrier and the damaged part of the grind chamber and it spins!
The burrs are misaligned and contact point moved from -7 to around 10, so either I lowered the motor carrier assembly it almost a full turn or the (now probably crooked) motor carrier assembly is protruding that much on one side compared to the previous form. Either way it sort of works, hopefully it's possible to align those burrs again when there will be enough time
For anyone disassembling the grinder that far, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND cutting the front panel as Giampiero did in this post: G-IOTA / DF64 espresso grinder. Much easier access to the chute (and without possibility to mess up the burr alignment)
The burrs are misaligned and contact point moved from -7 to around 10, so either I lowered the motor carrier assembly it almost a full turn or the (now probably crooked) motor carrier assembly is protruding that much on one side compared to the previous form. Either way it sort of works, hopefully it's possible to align those burrs again when there will be enough time
For anyone disassembling the grinder that far, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND cutting the front panel as Giampiero did in this post: G-IOTA / DF64 espresso grinder. Much easier access to the chute (and without possibility to mess up the burr alignment)
-
mmartins
Hey guys
Did I have bad luck with my DF64 or are all like this? Depending on where do you put your hands to move the grind setting the zero point "moves".
Can you guys try out to see if same happens to you? This make it really hard to switch from brew methods....
Video:
https://media.discordapp.net/attachment ... G_5761.mov
Did I have bad luck with my DF64 or are all like this? Depending on where do you put your hands to move the grind setting the zero point "moves".
Can you guys try out to see if same happens to you? This make it really hard to switch from brew methods....
Video:
https://media.discordapp.net/attachment ... G_5761.mov
-
iyayy
theres mention several times in this thread that the df64 burr carrier is directly screwed to the base.
putting load on the base will affect the burr alignment.
overtigthening seems will cause permanent damage (read few post earlier).
what you did is simply demonstrate this.
so yeah, this is probably imho the biggest cause of inconsistencies on df64. just tighten it to same snug and torque.
other than that, the collar itself can flex lightly.
tilt base will also to adjust the load on the base, and probably affects grinds as well.
having used this grinder for awhile, i seldom encounter off grinds. when i do, i'll just pick up and reseat it on the counter. even then it happens only about once or twice a month, if it did. it does happen tho.
for a some people they can justify paying 3~4x on lagom to avoid this and declumper issue, and better grinds quality, although i do question whether thats compared with stock steel burr or vs ssp.. with same burrs it should still be fundamentally close, like comparing a super worn shaft comandante with a new one of same version.
putting load on the base will affect the burr alignment.
overtigthening seems will cause permanent damage (read few post earlier).
what you did is simply demonstrate this.
so yeah, this is probably imho the biggest cause of inconsistencies on df64. just tighten it to same snug and torque.
other than that, the collar itself can flex lightly.
tilt base will also to adjust the load on the base, and probably affects grinds as well.
having used this grinder for awhile, i seldom encounter off grinds. when i do, i'll just pick up and reseat it on the counter. even then it happens only about once or twice a month, if it did. it does happen tho.
for a some people they can justify paying 3~4x on lagom to avoid this and declumper issue, and better grinds quality, although i do question whether thats compared with stock steel burr or vs ssp.. with same burrs it should still be fundamentally close, like comparing a super worn shaft comandante with a new one of same version.
-
canatto
Install a pair of spacers and stop worrying about under/over-tightening the screws, ever. All DF64 grinders should have them.
Spacers I DIY-ed:
Install them:
A plastic sleeve made of heat-shrink tubing is seen in the picture to hold the spacers in place to make the assembling easy.
Where to get the spacers?
your local electronic parts store, or
Aliexpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002 ... XtVgcsWCHe
Get the "M6xL 2PCS" option. The closest in length is 20mm, you'll need to cut it down to 18.5mm with a file. Brass is an easy metal to work with.
If you have a power drill and a 5mm drill bit, you can pick the "M5XL 5PCS" option, that's 3 more spacers for a few nickels more. You'll need to make the bore smooth by drilling out the threads in the hole in this case though.
....and the non-threaded version, forget the drilling.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3305201 ... yNefeOuyDA
Spacers I DIY-ed:
Install them:
A plastic sleeve made of heat-shrink tubing is seen in the picture to hold the spacers in place to make the assembling easy.
Where to get the spacers?
your local electronic parts store, or
Aliexpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002 ... XtVgcsWCHe
Get the "M6xL 2PCS" option. The closest in length is 20mm, you'll need to cut it down to 18.5mm with a file. Brass is an easy metal to work with.
If you have a power drill and a 5mm drill bit, you can pick the "M5XL 5PCS" option, that's 3 more spacers for a few nickels more. You'll need to make the bore smooth by drilling out the threads in the hole in this case though.
....and the non-threaded version, forget the drilling.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3305201 ... yNefeOuyDA
-
mmartins
What about using something like this:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOirKA6 ? This has 18/19mm sizes. Just need to also add 2 smaller bolts
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOirKA6 ? This has 18/19mm sizes. Just need to also add 2 smaller bolts
-
canatto
They will probably work just fine, but there could be two potential issues with them.
1/ you'd most likely have to cut the factory screws to length and re-use them. I wasn't able to find a replacement screw that their head will go in the recess at the bottom of the grinder base, because the standard screws in our part of the world has too big a head.
2/ One of our members who bought these male-female spacers found that the back of the spacer did not line up well with the holes in the base when they have been tightened onto the motor (though not the case with my particular DF64).
1/ you'd most likely have to cut the factory screws to length and re-use them. I wasn't able to find a replacement screw that their head will go in the recess at the bottom of the grinder base, because the standard screws in our part of the world has too big a head.
2/ One of our members who bought these male-female spacers found that the back of the spacer did not line up well with the holes in the base when they have been tightened onto the motor (though not the case with my particular DF64).
Sponsored by Baratza
