G-IOTA / DF64 espresso grinder - Page 145

Grinders are one of the keys to exceptional espresso. Discuss them here.
LaNovice1982
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#1441: Post by LaNovice1982 »

So I've had my DF64 for almost a year now, and immediately installed SSP HU burrs out the box, but I could never get 100% alignment or even close for that matter.

Then I decided to replace my top burr carrier with a new one from espresso outlet, and bought some rare burr gaskets I found on Etsy. I also got my torque screwdriver involved for the 2 long brass looking screws that go on the bottom of the grinder. It is important that those 2 screws are, if not exactly torqued the same, very close since it can mess with the alignment I recently learned.

Now I don't know if it was one of these 3 things or a combination but once everything was put back together I did my marker test and found my 100% wipe after 2 rotations of top burr with no shims. I was so excited it was kind of funny actually, mind you I'm obsessive, and had been at this for about 10 months trying every couple weeks to clean everything and attempt the marker test without getting close to 100%. I can definitely say a fully aligned df64 is way different than a 50% aligned df64.

Before I had it fully aligned I was grinding my coffee beans at around 5 or 6. With it 100% aligned, and using the same beans I'm now grinding at 18 or 19 on the grinders dial! That's a huge jump, also notice the grinds are so much more uniform obviously.

One major fact with this grinder that seems obvious but I must state, smash those springs. I always use a little tool to push down on the 3 springs with the rubber boot always at the bottom. It's so important that those springs are fully set down and even. My springs currently barely stick up above the chamber they're set in, for example, if I go to grab those springs my fingers barley grab the top. That also makes it to where when I put the collar back on, I don't have to push down, the collar hits the top burr carrier and I just lightly turn till the threads catch.

Sorry this is so long, but I needed to share since it changed everything for me, it's like having a brand new grinder. Most importantly is the difference in espresso taste!

Upper Burr Carrier: https://www.espressooutlet.net/turin-df ... der-parts/

Burr Gaskets:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1251632818 ... urr-gasket
Brian H.

iyayy

#1442: Post by iyayy »

LaNovice1982 wrote: I also got my torque screwdriver involved for the 2 long brass looking screws that go on the bottom of the grinder. It is important that those 2 screws are, if not exactly torqued the same, very close since it can mess with the alignment I recently learned.
this too. i forgot about i already, i think its buried in this thread somewhere, but it does affecr alignment. i opened my base few times to mod the declumper, it actually affect burr rub and coffee dial point by about 1 step so i had to update my list of beans settings. i dont use torque, but i tighten it to feel very similar. do this before doing the burr alignment.

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Jeff
Team HB

#1443: Post by Jeff »

Best bet is to assume that if you touch those screws, you'll need to realign. They definitely impact burr spacing. They may offset the bottom of the motor as well. The shift of the bottom perpendicular to the axis is reduced by the ratio of the distance to the burr to the radius of the burr. It might be 5:1, but even five thicknesses of foil isn't very much.

Toxicswan
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#1444: Post by Toxicswan »

Wow! Lots of great info on previous 3 posts. Now I have another variable or two to adjust that I did not know about v

LaNovice1982
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#1445: Post by LaNovice1982 »

Don't be shy to ask questions, especially to me, I'm always learning new stuff I never knew!
Brian H.

LaNovice1982
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#1446: Post by LaNovice1982 »

Giampiero wrote:Before or later, a deep cleaning will be necessary, so to avoid to dismantle the grinder to remove to the ground chute, i simply cut the front panel.
The lower section it's kept locked by the switch nut, the upper section by the standard 3 screws.
Of course.....don't do it, at least until your warranty is valid and overall is not really necessary...but i have some plan about the chute :mrgreen: ...so i need an easy accessibility.
image
Any regrets? I'm going to do this on my DF64, for the access it will give me without taking off the 2 bottom brass screws. Whenever I remove those an entire realignment has to be done and this will slow me to keep everything clean and quickly try all the different clump crushers and chute mods I've obtained.
Brian H.

ltanzil

#1447: Post by ltanzil »

iyayy wrote:this too. i forgot about i already, i think its buried in this thread somewhere, but it does affecr alignment. i opened my base few times to mod the declumper, it actually affect burr rub and coffee dial point by about 1 step so i had to update my list of beans settings. i dont use torque, but i tighten it to feel very similar. do this before doing the burr alignment.
you are 100% correct. the bottom burr is attached directly to the motor shaft. and the motor shaft bearing holder is attached to those two nut. so the base is connected to motor not the chassis and tightening them will pull the burrs apart. that's why we have to tighten them consistently. usually finger tight is enough. do not over tighten because the motor frame could bend.


Giampiero

#1448: Post by Giampiero »

The modification does not affected the grinder performance or the general assembly reliability, so if you want to do it, just be sure you can realize a clean cut, just to avoid some aesthetic issue.

ltanzil

#1449: Post by ltanzil »

LaNovice1982 wrote:Any regrets? I'm going to do this on my DF64, for the access it will give me without taking off the 2 bottom brass screws. Whenever I remove those an entire realignment has to be done and this will slow me to keep everything clean and quickly try all the different clump crushers and chute mods I've obtained.
absolutely one of the best decision for modding DF64. the idea to attach the switch to the chute cover is simply stupid. and to clean the chute = changing burr alignment and dial setting. that is ridiculous,

so cutting it remove all those hassle. and don forget to grind off some of the top part so we dont need to lossening the top cover ( changing the dial) to remove the chute cover, specially on espresso setting.

those mod can also encourage you to play around with the exit chute and declumper . because now accessing them is easy






Giampiero

#1450: Post by Giampiero »

ltanzil wrote:absolutely one of the best decision for modding DF64.

Thank you :D